I decided to write up this How-To as I see a lot of people (myself included)curious on how to install it, what part #s, etc. Your truck may vary, but here is what I used for my 2004 F250 6.0L Crew Cab Short Bed 4x4.

DISCLAIMER: I recommend you have someone with you for safety reasons. This can be done with one person, but have someone nearby just in case. You are responsible for your own safety! I will not be held responsible for any damages incurred. If you don't feel comfortable with doing this on your own, have it done by a professional!


Ford Part #s and Qty:
Blocks: F81Z5598DA x 2
U-Bolts: N803770S436 x 4
Nuts: N620485S441 x 8 (You can reuse the old nuts if you wish.)

Tools:
2 jack stands or bottle jacks
2 floor jacks
15/16" deep socket
18mm socket (if you plan to swap out the rear shocks)
Torque wrench
WD-40

Here's what the new F350 parts look like:



Step 1:
Position your jack stands or bottle jacks so that they will support the rear leaf springs just in front of the bottom leaf.



Step 2:
Raise the rear axle with the floor jacks high enough so that the rear tires are at least 1-2" off the ground. It's not recommended to lift with the differential. My 2nd floor jack was busted, so I took the risk. (I also used a hi-jack lift for added safety.)



Step 3:
Raise jack stands or bottle jacks to the point where they touch the leaf springs, but do not raise the axle.

Step 4:
Remove rear wheels.

Step 5:
Spray WD-40 on the u-bolts & nuts to losen them up.

Step 6:
Using a 15/16" deep socket loosen all 4 nuts on each side, then remove them.

Step 7:
Remove the u-bolts.



Step 8:
Remove the top plate



Step 9:
With the jack stands or bottle jacks in place, slowly lower the floor jacks so that the axle drops and there is enough room to install the new larger blocks.



Step 10:
Remove the F250 blocks and install the F350 blocks. *Note since I have the Crew Cab Long Bed, the correct blocks are the flat blocks. Reg. cab and Super Cab should have tapered blocks.*

Step 11:
Slowly raise the floor jacks up to where the new blocks are just barely making contact with the leaf springs.

Step 12:
Reposition the blocks so they are straight in line with the axle and leaf springs.

Step 13:
Raise the floor jacks so that there is enough pressure on the blocks that they will not move.

Step 14:
Install the F350 u-bolts and nuts into the top plate using a 15/16" deep socket. *Note, you may need to tighten them down at the same rate to prevent one side from being over tightned. Torque the nuts to 185 ft./lbs.



Step 14a:
If you are replacing your shocks (and you should) replace them now. You will need an 18mm socket for this step. Torque to 46 ft./lbs.

Step 15:
Put the wheels back on.

Step 16:
Raise the floor jacks off the jack stands or bottle jacks, then remove them.

Step 17:
Slowly lower the truck back onto the ground and torque the lug nuts.

Here is the difference in height the F350 blocks provided (approx. 2" of lift):

Before:


After:



And for comparison purposes:


(F350 Block on the left, F250 block on the right)

 

Is this the same for the front?

 

Nice write up on the block install. Question: any problems removing the original bolts from the U Bolt? Seems like you would need an air chisel or cut/shear the bolts themselves from the years of oxidation and buildup.

 

No, there are no blocks on the front. It is also not recommended to install blocks in the front.

Thanks! I had no problems removing the original u-bolts. If you let some WD-40 or rust penetrant sit on the bolts for a few minutes they should break free fairly easy. I used a 1/2" drive ratchet with a pipe over the handle to add some leverage.

 

You'd be amazed! We did blocks on TNT's ride last weekend.. an 01 model, prob got its lift shortly after it was bought.. We were able to remove his bolts with a breaker bar and no WD40.. We only had 20 cans on the shelf (didn't click to spray them and let them soak).. But hell 6 year old truck and the bolts came off fine.. We were afraid we would need to cut them too..

 

Yes, and btw I meant to give credit to Storm for the know how he gave me just before I did this.

 

Is that what "leveling kits" are designed for? Compensating for the extra 2" rear lift from larger blocks? My stock F250 rides level so I never quite understood.

 

Thanks for the writeup Riggz. Have you noticed any vibrations from the D-shaft or are you good to go?

 

Leveling kits are used to level the stock truck out. While your F250 may seem level, it is most likely a tad bit lower in the front. This design helps with aerodynamics, visibility, etc. If you take a measuring tape. It is a bit more noticeable with the diesels as the engines are a lot heavier. I added the F350 blocks in the rear because I raised the front 3.5". Without the F350 blocks the truck would look like the rear was sagging.

You're welcome! I have not noticed any vibrations. However I have not been above 60mph yet. Once I get my adjustable track bar and steering stabilizer installed, I will test it out to the extremes.

 

Riggz, do you have an idea of what it would cost if someone else did it. how long did it take?

 

It took me about an hour and a half (and that includes changing the shocks, taking photos, documenting progress). I have no clue how much someone would charge to do it, but a proffesional shop could probably have it done in under an hour using a lift and air tools.

EDIT: I just noticed you are in GA. If you want to bring your truck to my shop I could help you out in exchange for beer.

 

Very nice write up! That should go in the Tech Folder.

 

Appreciate it. I am away from the great state of Ga and dont have the means tool wise to do it myself.

 

Ah, where are you located then? Is Cartersville your old location or you're just out of town?

 

How much does that F350 block and shackle setup usually cost?