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How-To: Install F350 Rear Blocks
#1
How-To: Install F350 Rear Blocks
I decided to write up this How-To as I see a lot of people (myself included)curious on how to install it, what part #s, etc. Your truck may vary, but here is what I used for my 2004 F250 6.0L Crew Cab Short Bed 4x4.
DISCLAIMER: I recommend you have someone with you for safety reasons. This can be done with one person, but have someone nearby just in case. You are responsible for your own safety! I will not be held responsible for any damages incurred. If you don't feel comfortable with doing this on your own, have it done by a professional!
Ford Part #s and Qty:
Blocks: F81Z5598DA x 2
U-Bolts: N803770S436 x 4
Nuts: N620485S441 x 8 (You can reuse the old nuts if you wish.)
Tools:
2 jack stands or bottle jacks
2 floor jacks
15/16" deep socket
18mm socket (if you plan to swap out the rear shocks)
Torque wrench
WD-40
Here's what the new F350 parts look like:
Step 1:
Position your jack stands or bottle jacks so that they will support the rear leaf springs just in front of the bottom leaf.
Step 2:
Raise the rear axle with the floor jacks high enough so that the rear tires are at least 1-2" off the ground. It's not recommended to lift with the differential. My 2nd floor jack was busted, so I took the risk. (I also used a hi-jack lift for added safety.)
Step 3:
Raise jack stands or bottle jacks to the point where they touch the leaf springs, but do not raise the axle.
Step 4:
Remove rear wheels.
Step 5:
Spray WD-40 on the u-bolts & nuts to losen them up.
Step 6:
Using a 15/16" deep socket loosen all 4 nuts on each side, then remove them.
Step 7:
Remove the u-bolts.
Step 8:
Remove the top plate
Step 9:
With the jack stands or bottle jacks in place, slowly lower the floor jacks so that the axle drops and there is enough room to install the new larger blocks.
Step 10:
Remove the F250 blocks and install the F350 blocks. *Note since I have the Crew Cab Long Bed, the correct blocks are the flat blocks. Reg. cab and Super Cab should have tapered blocks.*
Step 11:
Slowly raise the floor jacks up to where the new blocks are just barely making contact with the leaf springs.
Step 12:
Reposition the blocks so they are straight in line with the axle and leaf springs.
Step 13:
Raise the floor jacks so that there is enough pressure on the blocks that they will not move.
Step 14:
Install the F350 u-bolts and nuts into the top plate using a 15/16" deep socket. *Note, you may need to tighten them down at the same rate to prevent one side from being over tightned. Torque the nuts to 185 ft./lbs.
Step 14a:
If you are replacing your shocks (and you should) replace them now. You will need an 18mm socket for this step. Torque to 46 ft./lbs.
Step 15:
Put the wheels back on.
Step 16:
Raise the floor jacks off the jack stands or bottle jacks, then remove them.
Step 17:
Slowly lower the truck back onto the ground and torque the lug nuts.
Here is the difference in height the F350 blocks provided (approx. 2" of lift):
Before:
After:
And for comparison purposes:
(F350 Block on the left, F250 block on the right)
DISCLAIMER: I recommend you have someone with you for safety reasons. This can be done with one person, but have someone nearby just in case. You are responsible for your own safety! I will not be held responsible for any damages incurred. If you don't feel comfortable with doing this on your own, have it done by a professional!
Ford Part #s and Qty:
Blocks: F81Z5598DA x 2
U-Bolts: N803770S436 x 4
Nuts: N620485S441 x 8 (You can reuse the old nuts if you wish.)
Tools:
2 jack stands or bottle jacks
2 floor jacks
15/16" deep socket
18mm socket (if you plan to swap out the rear shocks)
Torque wrench
WD-40
Here's what the new F350 parts look like:
Step 1:
Position your jack stands or bottle jacks so that they will support the rear leaf springs just in front of the bottom leaf.
Step 2:
Raise the rear axle with the floor jacks high enough so that the rear tires are at least 1-2" off the ground. It's not recommended to lift with the differential. My 2nd floor jack was busted, so I took the risk. (I also used a hi-jack lift for added safety.)
Step 3:
Raise jack stands or bottle jacks to the point where they touch the leaf springs, but do not raise the axle.
Step 4:
Remove rear wheels.
Step 5:
Spray WD-40 on the u-bolts & nuts to losen them up.
Step 6:
Using a 15/16" deep socket loosen all 4 nuts on each side, then remove them.
Step 7:
Remove the u-bolts.
Step 8:
Remove the top plate
Step 9:
With the jack stands or bottle jacks in place, slowly lower the floor jacks so that the axle drops and there is enough room to install the new larger blocks.
Step 10:
Remove the F250 blocks and install the F350 blocks. *Note since I have the Crew Cab Long Bed, the correct blocks are the flat blocks. Reg. cab and Super Cab should have tapered blocks.*
Step 11:
Slowly raise the floor jacks up to where the new blocks are just barely making contact with the leaf springs.
Step 12:
Reposition the blocks so they are straight in line with the axle and leaf springs.
Step 13:
Raise the floor jacks so that there is enough pressure on the blocks that they will not move.
Step 14:
Install the F350 u-bolts and nuts into the top plate using a 15/16" deep socket. *Note, you may need to tighten them down at the same rate to prevent one side from being over tightned. Torque the nuts to 185 ft./lbs.
Step 14a:
If you are replacing your shocks (and you should) replace them now. You will need an 18mm socket for this step. Torque to 46 ft./lbs.
Step 15:
Put the wheels back on.
Step 16:
Raise the floor jacks off the jack stands or bottle jacks, then remove them.
Step 17:
Slowly lower the truck back onto the ground and torque the lug nuts.
Here is the difference in height the F350 blocks provided (approx. 2" of lift):
Before:
After:
And for comparison purposes:
(F350 Block on the left, F250 block on the right)
Last edited by riggz; 07-19-2007 at 06:03 PM.
#3
#4
Originally Posted by 5.4L to Freedom
Is this the same for the front?
Originally Posted by PHWLEE
Nice write up on the block install. Question: any problems removing the original bolts from the U Bolt? Seems like you would need an air chisel or cut/shear the bolts themselves from the years of oxidation and buildup.
#5
Originally Posted by PHWLEE
Nice write up on the block install. Question: any problems removing the original bolts from the U Bolt? Seems like you would need an air chisel or cut/shear the bolts themselves from the years of oxidation and buildup.
#7
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#9
Originally Posted by 5.4L to Freedom
Is that what "leveling kits" are designed for? Compensating for the extra 2" rear lift from larger blocks? My stock F250 rides level so I never quite understood.
Originally Posted by sbrou14
Thanks for the writeup Riggz. Have you noticed any vibrations from the D-shaft or are you good to go?
#11
Originally Posted by UGA33
Riggz, do you have an idea of what it would cost if someone else did it. how long did it take?
EDIT: I just noticed you are in GA. If you want to bring your truck to my shop I could help you out in exchange for beer.
Last edited by riggz; 07-20-2007 at 11:33 AM.