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Old 07-18-2007, 09:26 PM
mmorto mmorto is offline
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Changing spark plugs in an 8 plug engine

Does anyone have any tips or tricks to changing these plugs without removing the intake manifold?
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Old 07-19-2007, 10:59 PM
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Meter Man Meter Man is offline
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Smile Plug changes are tough for me too!

Well, You do not have to remove the Intake Manifold (at least not on my 90 Ranger), but it is very difficult to get at two of the plugs that are under the manifold. I usually end up using a Universal joint between the Spark Plug Socket and the 10" extension that is attached to the ratchet. Some Spark Plug Sockets have a Universal Joint Attached to them (I like these better).
Anyhow, If it is like mine you may need a pair of long Needlenose pliers (maybe 12" length) to reach in and remove the wires from the plugs. Be careful and try to rotate the wire on the plug to break it free, then carefully pull on the wire as you rotate it (that reminds me to buy a good spark plug wire removal tool). I also remove the alternator; this allows me to access the front plug and gives me a bit more room to see what I'm doing.
Using the ratchet & socket, I reach in between the Intake Manifold runners to remove one of the difficult plugs (3rd one back from the front). To reach the furthest plug I remove the pipe that connects the EGR Valve to the Exhaust; I do this at the Exhaust because I cannot get a wrench to turn at the EGR Valve End of things.
Then I unplug anything that is in the way of the EGR Valve and I remove both EGR Valve Bolts and the valve from the engine. This allows me a little space between the engine & firewall so that I can get the back plug out. This all takes me alot of time (I usually spend 3-4 hours changing plugs & sometimes wires too), one of my problems is that I have fat fingers (about size 16 ring).

You may need to attach a short piece of vacuum hose to end of the new plug before installing. This allows you to more easily feed the plug into the hole. Rotate the vacuum hose to start the plug into the hole and avoid crossthreading.

It is pretty difficult for me to change plugs, but I always manage to get it done.

Perhaps some better suggestions or advice can be obtained from others on this excellent website.

Best of luck to you

Gary
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Old 08-19-2007, 01:53 PM
big blue 95 big blue 95 is offline
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One thing i figured out when putting the wires back on is that you can guide the wires from underneath the manifold itself. Just like gary said extensions long pliers are your best friend.
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Old 08-31-2007, 04:28 PM
Geimer Geimer is offline
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Plug change on 8 plug 2.3l four cylinder

Yep those right side plugs are difficult. I used a piece of twine and made a slip knot and worked around the rubber plug boots and then gave it a pull to get the boots off of the plugs. I did this several times while both changing plugs and wires. ALso used the u-joint type of extensions with two other long extensions to get to the plug socket around the plug.
Don't forget to blow out the area around the plugs with compressed air first to remove gravel and dirt etc before taking out the plugs. You don't want that nasty stuff going down the plug hole.
I've always brushed a little hi-temp anti seize compond on the threads of the new plugs before re-inserting them. I stripped the threads out of an aluminum head years back so I've done that ever since.
Good luck
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Old 11-24-2007, 04:13 AM
83bigbroncoguy 83bigbroncoguy is offline
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The easiest way I've found to change the plugs themselves is a 3" extension and a 6" extension on poopsite ends of a swivel (u-joint)...It takes a little effort but you'll get 'em out.
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Old 11-27-2007, 04:41 PM
68 351 bronc 68 351 bronc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 83bigbroncoguy
The easiest way I've found to change the plugs themselves is a 3" extension and a 6" extension on poopsite ends of a swivel (u-joint)...It takes a little effort but you'll get 'em out.
I have a 6" extension but no poopsite . What should I do??
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Old 11-27-2007, 08:59 PM
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you need about 4-6 beers and no regard for the skin on your knuckles.
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Old 09-22-2008, 02:14 PM
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Glockm22 Glockm22 is offline
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My buddy and I just changed his(plugs and wires) on his 90' ranger a few hours ago. It took about 2.5 hours and that included and oil change. We used 2 6" extensions, 2 2" extensions, a universal plug socket, a regular plug socket, and a 5/8 deep well with no grommet. Had to remove the alternator and the egr cover (3 5/16 nuts). take your time and be in no hurry.
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Old 10-01-2008, 08:37 PM
83bigbroncoguy 83bigbroncoguy is offline
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I did mine not two hours ago. Big pain in the @$$. Again, all you need is some patience and the extensions and swivel (u-joint) i mentioned above. And they fo on opposite ends, not poopsite. My bad. I felt a little rough that night.
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Old 10-08-2008, 03:36 AM
83bigbroncoguy 83bigbroncoguy is offline
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By the way...A six-pack is good, but I'd suggest a couple of "proper drinks." I prefer Jim Beam and Coke. One for the project and one(or more...) for after you've won the battle.
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Old 12-21-2008, 02:26 PM
drb1956 drb1956 is offline
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Try those "wobbly" style extensions-seem to work fairly well...I'm glad I only do these every 100,000 miles-PITA.....
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Old 04-03-2009, 07:06 PM
Dennis D Dennis D is offline
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To save the hassle of working around everything, I just take it out of the way.
It very simple to do and then you have all the room you need.
The first time I tried to change them on my 92 I tried the ways posted above and it was more of a hassle than takeing the intake out of the way
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Old 04-03-2009, 07:06 PM
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Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Performance, Engines & Troubleshooting > Other Ford Engines > 4 Cylinder Engines

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