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Old 07-18-2007, 09:26 PM
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Changing spark plugs in an 8 plug engine

Does anyone have any tips or tricks to changing these plugs without removing the intake manifold?
   
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Old 07-19-2007, 10:59 PM
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Smile Plug changes are tough for me too!

Well, You do not have to remove the Intake Manifold (at least not on my 90 Ranger), but it is very difficult to get at two of the plugs that are under the manifold. I usually end up using a Universal joint between the Spark Plug Socket and the 10" extension that is attached to the ratchet. Some Spark Plug Sockets have a Universal Joint Attached to them (I like these better).
Anyhow, If it is like mine you may need a pair of long Needlenose pliers (maybe 12" length) to reach in and remove the wires from the plugs. Be careful and try to rotate the wire on the plug to break it free, then carefully pull on the wire as you rotate it (that reminds me to buy a good spark plug wire removal tool). I also remove the alternator; this allows me to access the front plug and gives me a bit more room to see what I'm doing.
Using the ratchet & socket, I reach in between the Intake Manifold runners to remove one of the difficult plugs (3rd one back from the front). To reach the furthest plug I remove the pipe that connects the EGR Valve to the Exhaust; I do this at the Exhaust because I cannot get a wrench to turn at the EGR Valve End of things.
Then I unplug anything that is in the way of the EGR Valve and I remove both EGR Valve Bolts and the valve from the engine. This allows me a little space between the engine & firewall so that I can get the back plug out. This all takes me alot of time (I usually spend 3-4 hours changing plugs & sometimes wires too), one of my problems is that I have fat fingers (about size 16 ring).

You may need to attach a short piece of vacuum hose to end of the new plug before installing. This allows you to more easily feed the plug into the hole. Rotate the vacuum hose to start the plug into the hole and avoid crossthreading.

It is pretty difficult for me to change plugs, but I always manage to get it done.

Perhaps some better suggestions or advice can be obtained from others on this excellent website.

Best of luck to you

Gary
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Old 08-19-2007, 01:53 PM
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One thing i figured out when putting the wires back on is that you can guide the wires from underneath the manifold itself. Just like gary said extensions long pliers are your best friend.
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Old 08-31-2007, 04:28 PM
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Plug change on 8 plug 2.3l four cylinder

Yep those right side plugs are difficult. I used a piece of twine and made a slip knot and worked around the rubber plug boots and then gave it a pull to get the boots off of the plugs. I did this several times while both changing plugs and wires. ALso used the u-joint type of extensions with two other long extensions to get to the plug socket around the plug.
Don't forget to blow out the area around the plugs with compressed air first to remove gravel and dirt etc before taking out the plugs. You don't want that nasty stuff going down the plug hole.
I've always brushed a little hi-temp anti seize compond on the threads of the new plugs before re-inserting them. I stripped the threads out of an aluminum head years back so I've done that ever since.
Good luck
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Old 11-24-2007, 04:13 AM
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The easiest way I've found to change the plugs themselves is a 3" extension and a 6" extension on poopsite ends of a swivel (u-joint)...It takes a little effort but you'll get 'em out.
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Old 11-27-2007, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 83bigbroncoguy
The easiest way I've found to change the plugs themselves is a 3" extension and a 6" extension on poopsite ends of a swivel (u-joint)...It takes a little effort but you'll get 'em out.
I have a 6" extension but no poopsite . What should I do??
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Old 11-27-2007, 08:59 PM
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you need about 4-6 beers and no regard for the skin on your knuckles.
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Lots of scratches and one bent crossmember already with only 1300 on the odo.

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