What do you guys think about the turbo saver module,is it worth the money, it is 240.00 dollars for the 2004 S/D is it helpful,and what would you set the cooldown period for at 5 min. 10 min. are any of you guys using this product?
I use my turbo saver almost everytime i park my truck. Before I had it I would try to drive slow and would wait in the truck for 2-3 mins before shuting it down, sometimes longer if towing. Now I just park and get out, I have it set for 3 mins and it automatically shuts down.
Which timer are you looking into? I have the Isspro Turbo Temp Monitor which shuts the engine down when the post turbo temp reachs the adjustable preset. Mine is set at 350. Diesel Manor has the kit with the TTM and thermocouple for under $200.
Check out the TTM vs Timer at the bottom of this link.
I do not have a brand or type in mind right now , I just wanted to hear from other members if they were using this method to cooldown their turbos after a long run or heavy towing , and is it worth the money and time to Install this turbo saver.
I don't know if they are useful or not. I know there are a few on here that use them and like them, I just stick to reading til my egt hits round 400, it rarely takes longer then 20 secs for my gauge to read that and I'm usually not in a rush to get out of the truck. If I were to do it, I would probably do it with a combo like beerstalker is doing with a remote start.
Which timer are you looking into? I have the Isspro Turbo Temp Monitor which shuts the engine down when the post turbo temp reachs the adjustable preset. Mine is set at 350. Diesel Manor has the kit with the TTM and thermocouple for under $200.
Check out the TTM vs Timer at the bottom of this link.
Looks like a nifty and relatively inexpensive device. The instructions of Diesel Manor provided by ISSPRO are really iffy, are the ones in the package any better?
For reference which wire is it you cut on the steering column bundle, and where does the other end go?
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2007 F-250 SuperDuty 6.0 Power Stroke Diesel 4x4 S.Cab
2006 Kawasaki Ninja 500R - My 50MPG toy!
Looks like a nifty and relatively inexpensive device. The instructions of Diesel Manor provided by ISSPRO are really iffy, are the ones in the package any better?
For reference which wire is it you cut on the steering column bundle, and where does the other end go?
Instructions are iffy. Ford has changed wire colors between model years. I found someone on another forum with the same year truck and used the wires they used.
For the 04 I had to tap two wires for ign. Red with black trace (10 guage) and yellow with white trace (16-14 guage) I also used the solid yellow from the ign switch bundle for power, I run this through a 30 amp relay with a switch mounted in the dash so I can disable the TTM.
I agree with tex25025, I just use my ISSPro EGT gauge. If I maintain a low throttle position the last minute or two of driving and then wait 20 seconds or so, the temp drops to 400 and then I shut it off. This way I have the gauge to look at instead of something automated under the dash or wherever it goes...
2004 PSDLariat Crew Cab short bed
6" lift on 35" BFG ATs on Weld Racing Rims, billet grill
ISSPro EGT, Trans Temp, & Boost gauges
$1400 for the stereo with iPod controls and a custom rear speaker box
... and don't forget the very necessary train horn
I agree with tex25025, I just use my ISSPro EGT gauge. If I maintain a low throttle position the last minute or two of driving and then wait 20 seconds or so, the temp drops to 400 and then I shut it off. This way I have the gauge to look at instead of something automated under the dash or wherever it goes...
Just out of curiosity, where do you have the pyrometer installed? I'm running two gauges, both pre-turbo and post-turbo. It is surprising how much longer it takes for the post to cool.
The thermocouple location is at the back bootom side of the driver side exhaust manifold. I removed the manifold to drill and tap it so it was well done and so I did not leave metal shavings inside.
2004 PSDLariat Crew Cab short bed
6" lift on 35" BFG ATs on Weld Racing Rims, billet grill
ISSPro EGT, Trans Temp, & Boost gauges
$1400 for the stereo with iPod controls and a custom rear speaker box
... and don't forget the very necessary train horn
FWIW - Using synthetic motor oil eliminates the need for a turbocooldown timer. Running sustained high EGTs with dino oil and not allowing the turbo to have cooler dino oil pumped through it at idle may cause "coking" (burnt oil residue) on the shaft bearing and or the variable vane operating mechanism. That will lead to eventual turbo failure. Synthetic oil will not coke.
DSMMH
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04 X LTD: 4X4, 6.0L, JUICE w/Tude, Jobe CAI, Elbow Upgrade, ARP Studs, EGR Cooler Upgrade, Zoodad, MBRP T-Back, Bilstiens, Hawks, Cryos Front, D/S Rear, Prodigy, Remote Starter, OPTIMAs, 30MM Sway Bar, WAAG FB Guard, Fuel Cross Over Line, PML Xtra Capacity Tranny Pan, Coolant Filter, 160 AMP Alt Upgrade, Red-Head Steering Gear, Landyot Radius Rods, Firestone Air Bags, Michelin AT2s, Mag-Hytech Rear Diff Cover and Royal Purple Synthetic ATF, Synchromax and Gear & Motor Oil.
Saying that running synthetic oil will eliminate the need for letting the oil & turbo to cooldown is not totally accurate. Synthetic has many superior properties, but it can/will still react badly to extreme conditions.
__________________ Semper Fi
"Some people live an entire lifetime and wonder if they have made a difference in the world. Marines don't have that problem." - Ronald Reagan
Saying that running synthetic oil will eliminate the need for letting the oil & turbo to cooldown is not totally accurate. Synthetic has many superior properties, but it can/will still react badly to extreme conditions.
First of all we need to ascertain exactly what the heat does to cause the turbo to crash. If the cause is formation of sludge or the lack of lubrication due to oil over heating then a pure 100% synthetic will cure the problem because it dosen't form sludge and does lubricate almost as well at 800 degrees as at 70. Conventional oil has very low viscosity at high temp and does form sludge.
Just out of curiosity, where do you have the pyrometer installed? I'm running two gauges, both pre-turbo and post-turbo. It is surprising how much longer it takes for the post to cool.
I think this is something that many overlook when they shut down thier truck based on exhaust temps. The exhaust temp is largely based on engine load which can change rapidly, but the point of the cooldown period is to cooldown the turbo. The turbo housing has high mass and will not cool in 30 seconds like the time it would take to cool the sensor (pre-turbo).
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