I know I have seen a bunch of these threads, but i couldnt find any with my problem. I dont have much time to look, but i just moved to florida, and the only ford guys i know are 700 miles away in NC. For some reason my truck had been running great, but today when i tryed to start it, it would just turn but never start. Then the cel light came on. I guess maybe its one of the many sensors, but it really sounds like it wants to start. I dont know where to begin, between fuses, my chip, map sensors, cam sensors, maybe bad glow plug relays, i just dont know. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Travis

 

When it's turning over does the tachometer move? If it doesn't it's probably the cam postition sensor.

 

Check the under hood fuses, especially #9. If it is blow, then your fuel heater probably shorted out and you can just unplug it, replace the fuse and your good to go. In Florida you don't need glow plugs for it to start. Let us know. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the quick responses guys. I didnt even think to look at the tach. So i plugged the truck up for about 4 hours while i was off working, and now the truck starts up and there is no cel light. I didnt think it could be anything with the glow plugs, but i did it just in case. So i guess now my question is should i look into a new harness, or let it sit all night and try in the morning and actually watch the tach this time? I remember reading that a bad cps is real finicky, and works and then doesnt work, and runs and then runs crappy. Why would i need glowplugs anyways in 90 degree heat? Thanks guys!

 

My glow plugs come on here first thing in the morning even though it's 100*. I'm in Vegas right now.
In the morning, turn the ignition on but don't start it and watch your volt meter. If jumps up close to normal and then drops down a bunch your glow plug relay is good. If it doesn't drop then you might need a new relay. If you have a volt meter or test light you can also check the glow plug relay by turning the key to on with the hood up, jump out and see if the drivers side large post on the gpr has voltage. I think it's the drivers side. In any case it's the large post that has no voltage with the key off. Did I make any sense?

 

So how is this for wierd, I plugged my truck in and it cranked. Then the next morning it still had no problem cranking, i just didnt drive it anywhere, because i didnt want to have to tow it home. Last night it cranked, but today when i turn the key, the cel comes on, the voltage doesnt drop, and it wont crank. So i guess this means the relay is bad, or going bad?? let me know what you guys think, and i will order some parts tonight.
thanks

 

I don't think that a bad gp relay will throw a CEL, at least mine never did. I would look toward IPC or CPS, although the GP's will cycle when it is warm, if the engine has not been run, they are not necessary to start, so you would worse case have a slightly slow start with white smoke. I think your problem is a lack of fuel introduction into the cylinder and you need to identify which sensor is the weak link

 

where in florida are you? I can get you some good prices on parts if you are around the Tampa/Sarasota area. I don't leave for Tn for another 3 days, lol. I have my glowplugs on a switch, and never use them down here during the summer. Try unplugging your ICP next time it won't start and see what happens. Also, did you ever watch the tach for movement when it wouldn't fire?

 

Have you checked the oil level in the HPOP? It should be about 1 inch from the top.

Here's a link on the same subject.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ont-start.html

 

I live in st. petersburg, and i checked the tack, it is moving when i try to crank it. I did not see any smoke, and I tried unplugging the icp. It still didnt crank, in fact nothing changed. I checked the fuses and number 17 is blown, but i have no idea what that goes too. Also most of the time the volts dont drop, but if i let it sit between trying the voltmeter will drop just a little for just a second. And the oil seems to be good, but it is sitting on a hill. I guess maybe i will plug it in again and go looking for this big fuse, and see if it cranks later. But even if it does, i cant figure out how that could have any effect since i dont need the glow plugs to crank the motor. Im so confused. Thanks guys

 

So just for s and gs, i decided to drain th fuel filter housing. First try cranking, no cel and started for 3 secs, then cel, then dead. Wouldnt crank any more, then on the last try, no cel and cranked and ran. What is up with this crazy thing? And that fuse still isnt in.

 

Ok, well I have an account with Sunstate International in Tampa if you need any parts just pm me and I will give you info to use to get a good price. I typically save about 30 percent when I tell them it's for a personal truck and not one of the fleet vehicles. Hope you can track the problem down.

 

This is for a 96, don't know if your 95 is the same.

#17 fuse in the cab is for:
Warning Buzzer/Chime Module, Warning Indicators, Diesel Indicators, Gauges, Tachometer, Transmission Control Switch

#17 Fuse under hood is for:
Generator Charge Indicator, Instrument Cluster. See Fuses 2, 3, 6, 11 and 17 (IP Fuse Panel) and Maxi-Fuse 22. Also See Circuit Breaker 12

 

So now everything seems to be working, but i dont know if i can risk driving it, and haveing it die on me. Could it just be the icp going bad or the cps? I didnt see any water in the fuel, but maybe with that fuse out, i had some in there and thats why it didnt fire? Too many sensors and not enought money....

 

Did you replace the blown fuse?
Is the fuse in the cab or under the hood?