Another Bumper Build

[meanv10]

Originally Posted by ghunt That craftsman you linked to must be the updated version of my welder. On mine, it doesn't have a speed adjustment for the wire feed (I dunno why you'd need to adjust that on that welder anyway). On mine the on off switch is LO, HI, and OFF. Then there's another switce for MIN and MAX. So, if you do LO and MIN you can weld thin sheet, HI and MAX you can do thick stuff like 1/8" super easy. I don't remember if mine is 20% duty cycle, I thought it was higher than that...the only time I ever had to let the welder cool off was when I was doing my subframes, because that was a LOT of welding. I could weld constantly for a few minutes or so and then I'd have to let it cool off for 5-10 minutes. Oh, one thing to note (and I'm not sure why it's like this), my welder throws splatter EVERYWHERE. If there's one thing I hate about the welder, it's that. My brother bought a Hobart Handler and runs it with flux core wire, and it doesn't splatter nearly as bad...and it's 110V too. Duty cycle doesn't affect the ability for a welder to produce a good weld, it is a ratting for the welder that you can run it at max settings for a certain amount of time. It is rated out of 10min so a 20% will be 2 min you can run the welder at max settings without burning it up. the welders that were in your price range will be good for tacking only, unless you plan on only using it to 1/8" MAX, and even then no guarantees. Also wire feed speed has a huge affect on the weld, it controls the amps that are being put into the weld, the faster the speed the more amps more amps= more penetration, but without a digital readout on a wire welder you dont know how many amps and voltage being put into the weld. the carts and numbers on the welder will get you close but things like the stick out of the wire can affect the amps and volts. The reason that the Hobart will produce less splatter is because the transfer of welding wire to base metal is going into the spray transfer, and yours is most likely trying to operate in short circuit making causing the splatter. I have heard that by spraying PAM cooking spray on the metal and the welder will make the splatter easier to remove.

[Josh88Ford]

I think you would be alright with a welder rated for 3/16 as long as you weld flat, not downhill, and all the seams welded inside and out. As I mentioned before, I would keep any frame mount, shackle mount or winch mount to a 220.

But I think the most important thing is knowing how to weld and getting the welder set right. You can have the best 220 but you could get a better weld out of a 110 if you know what your doing.

Also, another idea would be tacking the bumper up, welding the outside, grind all the welds smooth(if perferred) and have a fab shop weld all the inside. I bet they would do it for under $50

[Pickupmanx2]

I strongly suggest one of these, it is cheap as far as auto-dark ones go, but bang for the buck, this thing is great!!!! Makes welding SO much more enjoyable, I bought mine as a replacement when my old beater flip-down got thrown (uuhhh-hemmm, yes it was a bad day!!) and broke. I bought this as a quick fix to get me through,,,, it is great, and I still have it. Craftsman Welding Helmet with Filter, America - Model 24400SBA at Sears.com

[Josh88Ford]

Just make sure you can get variable shades. My Eagle Mach 1 helmet is auto darkening, shade 10 and they dont make shade 9's anymore for them. Too dark for most jobs.

I use a $30 jackson. I would suggest this helmet. Buy a shade 9 while your at it.

[Proxymatic]

Fun tip: Buy grinding discs on ebay, my dad got 5 grinding (not cutting) ones for 30 bucks. And got 50 cutting ones for I think $20. Sure they're from china but they last basically as long, and just as dangerous as the ones you buy from Home Depot.

Great looking bumper by the way. I'm probably going to be making a rear bumper later on after I get my truck back on the road.

[Josh88Ford]

you can get "tool shop"(4 1/2) brand for a little over a buck a peice at Menards here. Also, if you plan on powdercoating or painting, a softback and sanding discs is a great tool for making all the grind marks smooth. $5-10 rubber back and discs are about a buck a peice too. The sanding flat discs seem to leave lines.

[Proxymatic]

Originally Posted by Josh88Ford

The sanding flat discs seem to leave lines.

Yeah they do, I used those on my hood when I was taking some rust off of it. You can still see the lines through like 3 layers of paint.

[dirtyoffroad]

I built this one for a friend,he had it sprayed with bedliner

[Saleenguy]

You built a couple nice bumpers.

I am building my own in a couple months for an F350.

I think your look as good or better, than the WAY overpriced ones offered for sale from the bumper places.

Thanks for the pics.

[greenbrg]

I have some more ideas for your sweet bumpers and your nurf bars, I love LED lights and love making my truck look like a Christmas tree. I was thinking having built in LED turn signals that are both running lights and turn signals. Can you post some more photos of your nurf bars. I want to install them with the red and amber LED lights going down the side, 94 F250 super cab diesel. Keep up the great work. As far as all the welding questions, I got an old Lincoln 220 stick welder commonly called the buzz box for $50.00. That thing works great, for all the people that do not want install 220 you can unplug your water heater and or A/C to your house and plug in a 220 welder. All you have to do is go to Home Depot and get a plug adapter buy using the dryer plug with a different plug to plug in the welder to the plug that your house plug. Hope this helps and once again way to create some sweet bumpers.

[Homemade]

Wish you lived around here i want a good bumper for my truck and would love to be able to help build it .