Hi all Ive got an introduction thread complete w/pix,(be sure to check it out)and I have a few questions on my newest "aquisition".

Its a `73 F100 and from my vin code it says my engine size is 360. The guy I got it from says that when he put the new starter on it he had to purchase a starter for a 302. Do they interchange or something, or is it possible someone has swapped the engine. If needed I can snap some pix to give you guys some visual aids, it does have a 2 bbl carb and an auto shift in the column.

According to my trans code (wich is g, well the acutal listing is G 02) it just lists it as an automatic, but its best guess is a c6. How do I tell?

Next thing is that apparently someone tried to put some aftermarket guages in as my fuel level guage, amp guage, temp guage and oil pressure guage are not working. Any Ideas how to chase down the problems to fix these.

The last round for this set is that I have tail lights, but no brake lights. My guess is that its a fuse or a blown bulb. I have looked at the tail lights and it looks pretty straight forward as far as removal looks to be just 4 screws (2 for the chrome housing and 2 for the actual lenses and it should pop out) is that correct. Also where in hades is the fuse box located on these things? Ive looked under the dash and hood and dont see anything that appears to me to be one.

Thanks in advance for any help rendered.
Doc

 

I dont know **** about electrical man but 302 and 360 starters dont interchange at all the only thing that works between these 2 motors in oil filter and gas thats about it.

So how do you tell the diffrence? Look on your valve covers 302's the valve covers only cover the head portion of the engine on a 360 the top portion will also seal with your intake manifold and the intake is alot larger and flatter then 302 intakes look around on ebay or other sites for pictures of 302's and 390's (same thing as a 360) and you should be able to find out what you have Maybe there is an easier way but my way you dont have to get dirty at all and thats always a good thing

 

Easiest way to tell what engine it is - count the bolts holding the valve cover on, and notice if the thermostat housing bolts to the block or intake.

Look at the trans and notice if the bell housing is one cast piece with the trans case (C6) or if its removable, a seperate piece from the trans case (C4).

For guages - search past threads, there are common problems with these. Check the fuses could be a blown one. The box is mounted up on the firewall just behind the park brake pedal.

There is a good tech article about testing rear lights and blinkers in the tech section. Hit the Article/Specs link at the top of the page.

And welcome - enjoy your new pickup...

 

oh and thanks for the welcome.

 

IF your lucky, then there might still be a sticker on the drivers side valve cover that'll tell you if it's a 302 or a 360.

Take a look at the transmission pan. If it's a small square, then it's a C4, if it's a big ugly L shaped pan, it's a C6.

Like 73custom said, there is a good tech article about testing rear lights and blinkers in the tech section, but try changing the bulbs first. There are two filiments in the bulbs, and one could of broke causing this problem.

As for the gauges, check and replace all bad fuses, take off the gauge cluster, and look and see if everything looks ok back there(no wires cut in half). You could try putting some aftermarket gauges in if you locate all the correct wirring, which would be more accurate than the stock stuff.

 

thanks... that oughta make it a bit easier to identify... no such luck w/the sticker on the valve cover. Its got a few after markets in it(down at the bottom of the dash on drivers side... but Ive been eye'n the autometer set..(indiglo??) hey I need to be able to see the vehicles vitals right... its not technicly unnecessary right... atleast thats what ima tell the wife... hehehehe

 

I would think you would be able to tell the diference between a 302 and a 360 by the amount of fuel you use. big diference in displacement

 

It "should" be under the dash right on the firewall by the parking brake setup. On the older trucks, like yours, they only had a few fuses, so it is small.

For the brake lights, test the brake light switch, located on the brake pedal about half way up, for continuity with the plunger out.

 

352/360/390 FE engines have a starter with three mounting holes. The starter: C3OZ-11002-C is identical to the 144/170/200 6 cylinder starters.

The 289/302 starters have two mounting holes.

FE engines have 5 valve cover bolts; 302/351W's have 6 valve cover bolts; 351C/351M/400's have 8 valve cover bolts.

What did your truck come with originally? Post ALL the numbers from the VIN plate...all the info can be decoded.

The auto trans code is a single letter. The 02 you posted is two of the three digits of the axle code. Both are on the same line, and sometimes, Ford didn't stamp them correctly. >> Trans code G is a C6. <<


The brake light (stoplight) switch is mounted to a bracket on the brake pedal, underneath the dash.

Faulty gauges could be the result of a bad printed circuit, or corrosion on the terminals. The CVR = constant voltage regulator which attaches to the printed circuit, only affects the gas and temp gauges when it fails.


The fuse box is behind the dash in the vicinity of the dash cluster.


1973, early 1974 F Series trucks have different taillamps than the late 1974/79 use. The lens separates from the metal housing, to access the bulbs. The later trucks use a plastic lens/housing that is all one piece. The bulbs on this lamp fit into removeable sockets on the back side of the housing.


>>> FTE member Mil1ion is the wiring guru on these trucks. He has all the info, and valuable links to pictures and diagrams for dash clusters, and everything else you could possibly need. <<<

 

My book calls it an IVR (Instrument Voltage Regulator) and when it fails it will affect the oil pressure guage too. Or is a '73 different?

 

Ford has called it either a CVR or an ICVR since 1957. When it fails, it causes the temp and gas gauges to fluctuate. I'm not aware of any CVR affecting the oil gauge.

1973/79 F100/350: D1AZ-10804-A .. CVR = constant voltage regulator / ICVR = instrument cluster voltage regulator.


I've been using the term CVR since 1962. Most ppl here refer to it as a CVR.

 

Happened to me once. I about soiled myself when I looked down and the oil pressure gauge was below the low end of the normal range. Then I notice the gas and temp guages were also reading lower. Replaced the ICVR and problem went away. Electrically speaking, all three guages operate the same way. The only one that doesn't is the charge indicator (a much more accurate description than calling it an ammeter)

If this isn't the case, then where does the oil pressure guage get its voltage?

 

I believe the CVR does affect the oil pressure gauge, at least on the '79. I was trying to get all of my gauges working with my new engine just last night. The oil pressure wire sure appears to be hooked in with the cvr.

 

well apon checking i have 8 valve cover bolts, and the heads are HUGE... the ac compressor sits infront of the engine on top, above the power steering pump. I will post pix if needed. So does this mean I have a 351 under there?

 

Ok I had the same problem. I dont know if yours will be the same as mine BUT they might be wired backwards if anyone has messed with them. I also had taillights but no brake lights.... But after a bit of messing around and looking at a different tail light we figured out it was wired backward. Now i have taillights, blinkers and brake lights.