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  #61  
Old 03-18-2010, 06:21 PM
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3 things I found out when I did mine Glen.
1. Always replace the nut with a new one, it made things easier. The dealerships have these too. The knew nut snugged up real nice. I did as most of us have done, when I saw mine leaking, I tried to tighten the nut and stripped it. It's very easy to do.
2.Keep the O-ring oil free. It will swell up and make the install impossible.
3. When I did mine, it leaked slightly upon initial start up. I knew the seal would swell up when the oil hit it, and it did and the leak stopped.
It was only a small leak though.
I did it twice, because the seal got oil soaked on me the first time and I couldn't get it seat properly. Hope this helps yah out.
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  #62  
Old 03-18-2010, 08:34 PM
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I'm going to take it apart tomorrow. I am going to go to NAPA and see if they have a better o-ring, worth a try. I did install a new nut, the old one was bent on one edge so I had to throw it away. I think alls I did was overtighten the nut and it distorted to o-ring. Kind of hard to experiment with the tightness cause you have to remove the starter every time. This is still better than taking it to a repair shop, I learn alot when I get into the mechanics of the truck. before I discovered this website I would never have thought about doing this repair.
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  #63  
Old 03-19-2010, 09:42 AM
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Finally repaired mine two weeks ago with the International Kit mentioned above. Thanks for all the tips and instructions! The 1/2" galley brush worked like a charm......not a bad job at all, just a little nervous about the flange falling in but after starting the procedure it wasn't a concern since the brush held it in place without a problem.
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  #64  
Old 03-20-2010, 07:49 PM
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Called the stealership about the parts (inner flange o-ring, new flange nut, and dipstick o-ring) and they said there was also an inner nut and that all those parts would cost me $68. WTF? $68 for 2 o-rings and a flange nut? Oh yeah, they said they're special order only too. Thoughts?
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  #65  
Old 03-20-2010, 09:36 PM
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Get a repair kit from INTL as mentioned in post just above your's.
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  #66  
Old 03-20-2010, 10:50 PM
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while trying to loosen the valve cover bolt that the dipstick tube attaches to i managed to bend up my tube, and pulled it out of the flange.

does the tube just push back in that hole? it looks like it is flared on the end
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  #67  
Old 03-21-2010, 07:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ztodd377 View Post
Called the stealership about the parts (inner flange o-ring, new flange nut, and dipstick o-ring) and they said there was also an inner nut and that all those parts would cost me $68. WTF? $68 for 2 o-rings and a flange nut? Oh yeah, they said they're special order only too. Thoughts?
The local dealershiphere charged $23 for the same parts ( Flange nut, inner o-ring and tube o-ring). If you want I can get the parts for you and ship them to you. I would call ED the parts guy on this forum, he would most likely beat everybodys prices. www.partsguyed.com

Billcollector- The dipstick tube just pushes back into the flange, you will feel the o-ring slip into the slot in the flange.

I had to take the whole thing apart a second time. turns out the first time I did the fix the flange o-ring was not in the groove that is machined on the piece in the inside of the pan. Taking it apart the second time only took about 45 minutes from start to finish. The .40 cal bore cleaning brush works really slick.
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  #68  
Old 03-21-2010, 07:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billcollector View Post
while trying to loosen the valve cover bolt that the dipstick tube attaches to i managed to bend up my tube, and pulled it out of the flange.

does the tube just push back in that hole? it looks like it is flared on the end
Yes, the tube pushes into the hole.
Seals with an o-ring around the shoulder of the tube.
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  #69  
Old 03-21-2010, 08:13 PM
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Bump.......
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  #70  
Old 03-21-2010, 08:23 PM
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Billcollector, try not to bend the dipstick side to side. You'll know, if the dipstick is very hard to insert or remove and has alot of drag, then the tube is bent side to side. It should site straight from top to bottom. You might even have to remove it and lay it down flat and get any side to side bends out of it. It has factory contour bends in it, but not from side to side. Hope this helps yah out. Take care now.
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  #71  
Old 04-07-2010, 01:41 PM
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Does the gasket in that kit replace the oring on the inside of the pan? Or does it just sit on the outside of the pan under the flange nut?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fat Diesel View Post
Hey guys,

I recently started leaking massive amounts of oil from the flange that holds the dipstick tube to the pan. As you may be aware, the flange is inserted from the inside along with the oring to seal it. I think it might be possible to replace that oring, but I went with the tried and true International repair kit.

Intl # 1846146C91 consists of:

Gasket
Oring (small one for the dipstick tube where it slides in the flange)
RTC
Loctite Flange Sealer
Instruction Sheet

Here's the gasket dimensionally if you need to make one in a pinch. 2 1/2" OD, 1 5/8" ID, and 0.031" thick.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Here is the RTV and Loctite flange sealer.

Click the image to open in full size.

I started by disconnecting the batteries and removing the starter to gain access.

I then removed the bolt securing the dipstick tube at the top and un-hooked the wire harness and a couple of electrical connectors.

Click the image to open in full size.

Next I cleaned up the flange and surrounding area.

Click the image to open in full size.

The trickiest part of the whole operation is making sure that the flange does not fall into the pan while you take the retaining nut off and further clean and apply sealant. The directions called for a gallery brush (long straight round wire brush) but I didn't have one so I made a tool that worked sweet.

My custom tool was a piece of round plastic bar that was just under the size I needed it to be to wedge it in the hole that the dipstick tube sticks in. I ended up running a die over it to make some threads that increased the diameter of the plastic just enough to get a nice soft press fit.

Click the image to open in full size.

I then drilled a hole and safety wired it to a carabiner so I could hook it to something and not have the flange fall into the abyss.

Click the image to open in full size.

Here is the tool "installed."

Click the image to open in full size.

Now comes the pucker factor 9.9 as you actually push the flange into the pan to remove the OEM oring with a pick like instrument.

Click the image to open in full size.

Then I cleaned up both threads as best I could using brake cleaner, which by the way is a great way to get the clear coat off the pan... Then you use the RTV to seal two little slots on the pan and one "key" on the flange as you pull the flange back to it's seating position.

At that point I used the Loctite flange sealer to goop up the threads of both the flange and nut as well as both sides of the gasket. It is pretty messy sliding a gooped up gasket over the home-made tool but I got 'er done.

Now don't snicker too much on the sight of this ugly duckling, because the final words on the instructions were to use the RTV to COVER COMPLETELY the area around the slots and key. The key is there to properly position the flange so the dipstick tube is aligned.

Interestingly, due somewhat to the 105* temp outside, I could see massive outgassing from the RTV. Pretty cool to watch. Kind of like smoke pouring out of the entire surface area.

So far no leaks after 20 miles of driving!



Andy

Click the image to open in full size.
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  #72  
Old 04-07-2010, 05:01 PM
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It will be installed on the outside...Many here(including myself)have changed the inner oring successfully and then you do not need the kit or have that glob of stuff on the outside.I would recommend buying a new nut and dipstick oring.Use a 45 cal bore brush to hold the inner flange while you remove the nut and inner oring.Get a partner to help or have everything laying where you can reach it.
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  #73  
Old 04-07-2010, 05:10 PM
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Here are the Ford part #'s:

inner oring...F4TZ6753A
dip stick oring...3C3Z6753AA
flange nut...F4TZ6751A

I found them on this thread: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/89...g-changed.html

I found them all on Ed's site for under $20 bucks.
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  #74  
Old 04-07-2010, 05:19 PM
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Check your local ford dealer you may not have to pay for shipping if the local price is reasonable.
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  #75  
Old 04-07-2010, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdpower View Post
Here are the Ford part #'s:

inner oring...F4TZ6753A
dip stick oring...3C3Z6753AA
flange nut...F4TZ6751A

I found them on this thread: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/89...g-changed.html

I found them all on Ed's site for under $20 bucks.
fixed the part numbers.

when entering part numbers into my site, all caps and no dashes.

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Old 04-07-2010, 07:27 PM
 
 
 
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