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  #31  
Old 12-02-2009, 10:54 AM
gymnastically gymnastically is offline
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do you have to drain the oil for this repair or is it above the oil level??
thanks!
-dave
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  #32  
Old 12-02-2009, 10:56 AM
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Barry,

After 10k miles so far so good for me. No leak at the flange.

When I pulled the dipstick tube the o-ring was GONE.

That 0-ring is quite different. I bought an OEM because I had nothing to look at and after seeing the Ford o-ring I knew I couldn't find one like it at the parts store.
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  #33  
Old 12-02-2009, 11:17 AM
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Thanks for the help guys, I just spent a quick 30 minutes under the truck in the daylight and waiting for the temp to get above 25F. My flange nut was a good 1/2 turn loose and I can can see oil goop climbing up the dipstick tube also. So like suggested I will go ahead and change them all while down there. With this being my first winter in South Dakota I don't want to be stuck out in the cold somewhere.

Seems like I got an early Christmas present from the diesel gremlins this year. I took a quick look in the engine valley to make sure everything else looked OK and now it seems I have a fuel leak from the fuel drain valve. Looks like the O-ring gremlins got me good this time.

Thank you again for you help & quick responses. I have only been on the forum a few times the past 5 months. The move to SD, work & kids school has my time strapped lately. It's cool that you are still willing to help someone that has been a ghost lately.....

reps to ya.....
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2003 F-250 - Faubion trns, Wildman tunes, van turbo WW, DI Intercooler, intank/prepump, Swamps 175/146 SS, reg ret, Firestone air bags, Powerslot rotors & Hawk pads, 350 HP/692 TQ
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  #34  
Old 12-02-2009, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gymnastically View Post
do you have to drain the oil for this repair or is it above the oil level??
thanks!
-dave
No...I did not drain the pan.
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  #35  
Old 12-02-2009, 11:37 AM
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riverrat41 riverrat41 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaysonPSD View Post
Barry,

After 10k miles so far so good for me. No leak at the flange.

When I pulled the dipstick tube the o-ring was GONE.

That 0-ring is quite different. I bought an OEM because I had nothing to look at and after seeing the Ford o-ring I knew I couldn't find one like it at the parts store.
It is a different looking o-ring.That is why I called it double beveled.That is what it looked like to me and I deal with many types.
Glad it is still dry.I hope it stays that way for ya!
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Last edited by riverrat41; 12-02-2009 at 11:39 AM. Reason: adding
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  #36  
Old 12-02-2009, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by white Buffalo View Post
Thanks for the help guys, I just spent a quick 30 minutes under the truck in the daylight and waiting for the temp to get above 25F. My flange nut was a good 1/2 turn loose and I can can see oil goop climbing up the dipstick tube also. So like suggested I will go ahead and change them all while down there. With this being my first winter in South Dakota I don't want to be stuck out in the cold somewhere.

Seems like I got an early Christmas present from the diesel gremlins this year. I took a quick look in the engine valley to make sure everything else looked OK and now it seems I have a fuel leak from the fuel drain valve. Looks like the O-ring gremlins got me good this time.

Thank you again for you help & quick responses. I have only been on the forum a few times the past 5 months. The move to SD, work & kids school has my time strapped lately. It's cool that you are still willing to help someone that has been a ghost lately.....

reps to ya.....
As far as I am concerned,once you are in the brotherhood here you are in.Everybody has time restraints and that cannot be helped.I am not nowhere near the most knowledgable here but when I can help I will help whomever because I have been helped plenty on here.
Guzzle will have those o-rings or you can get them and the dipstick o-rings from Ford.Do not tighten the nut too much and mash your new o-ring.You can do it,just think it through and take your time.
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  #37  
Old 12-02-2009, 01:06 PM
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When I thought I was going to have to replace the flange o-ring I made this widget to keep the flange from falling into the pan. Just to be safe and to help reduce the "pucker factor" (I was paranoid about this repair). Fortunately I didn't have to use it so it is untried but I sure think it would work. If I ever do need it I will make it a bit shorter and try to remember to put the o-ring and gasket over the strings before I tie it off and start loosening the flange nut.
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  #38  
Old 12-03-2009, 12:06 PM
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Nice super widget Robin,

very nice.......
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2003 F-250 - Faubion trns, Wildman tunes, van turbo WW, DI Intercooler, intank/prepump, Swamps 175/146 SS, reg ret, Firestone air bags, Powerslot rotors & Hawk pads, 350 HP/692 TQ
2000 Excursion- Wildman Tunes/Hydra, 160/80 SS Injectors, S366 Turbo,Studs & Springs, Reg Return, DI Intercooler,T500, PMT1 PCM, CT Suspension, Rockin "S" Built
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  #39  
Old 12-03-2009, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by white Buffalo View Post
Nice super widget Robin,

very nice.......
Thanks Rich. Kind of a peace of mind thing plus you have both hands free to manipulate the flange without fear of it falling into the pan.
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  #40  
Old 01-04-2010, 04:47 PM
smojmokel smojmokel is offline
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OK I now have the oil leak! My issue is that the nut is all the way off and can't get it started again? I took off the starter and was able to get my needle nose vise grips on it but I still can't seem to get enough threads to get the nut back on. Any suggestions?
Thanks Steve
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  #41  
Old 01-04-2010, 07:39 PM
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Welcome to FTE Steve....I bought a new nut because some here said they are cheesy.Maybe secure the flange and buy a new nut from Ford.They are not expensive.....Not sure what else besides take your time and try to get it started which you have probably already done.
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  #42  
Old 01-04-2010, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smojmokel View Post
OK I now have the oil leak! My issue is that the nut is all the way off and can't get it started again? I took off the starter and was able to get my needle nose vise grips on it but I still can't seem to get enough threads to get the nut back on. Any suggestions?
Thanks Steve
Get a new nut.. Its probably cross threaded.. They are a soft metal.. Better that to cross thread than the flange... I did this job twice because I didnt get a new nut the first time.. The nut was cross threaded and I couldnt get it tight enough and had to do it again.. Not something you want to do twice.. Good luck
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  #43  
Old 01-07-2010, 12:06 PM
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Thanks, That's what I thought too. I am going to make ,"THE SUPER WIDGET" so I don't hear the dreaded "clunk" I sure hope it works. I"ll let you know when I get a chance to get the parts and give it a try. I am working nights and about to start a remodel on the house, something will have to wait and it looks like the truck
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  #44  
Old 01-07-2010, 02:30 PM
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Mine is starting to get real bad But I am so scared to hear the "Clunk" of death.
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  #45  
Old 01-07-2010, 02:54 PM
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All you need is an appropriate size round brush like they use to clean engine oil galleys out. Push it into the dipstick tube hole and tie brush handle off to something, then remove nut and proceed with repair. After repair, replace nut and tighten, fan clutch wrench fits nut, pull out brush and finish the job.
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