Seaside.

Stewart

 

I currently own a 7.3 that i had the same problem out of, but didnt have the luck you did with, changing every thing from the out side, i am currently going to school for Caterpillar, so luckily it messed up on me at the schools shop, tried the trick of holding the inter threaded piece and was shooting for an easy fix needless to say, it wasnt long after that i heard the "ca- flop" of the threaded peice hittin the bottom of the oil pan. good lord i about had to go to revival after that. so now i guess my only option is to pull the pan, and from what i hear that is one pain in the A$$. if you know is it possible to remove the motor and trans mount bolts and jack up engine with out removing the turbo,intercooler pipes, exhaust etc? please reply im in deep need of a easy fix. i gotta make it back home for thanksgiving.

 

Welcome to FTE...It can happen to anybody because that is a very tricky job.I have changed the inner oring successfully but I had two safeties on it JIC.
I have read about loosening the motor mounts and jacking up the motor.Have not done it yet but some have here.They will have more advise shortly.We will get ya fixed up here.

 

Welcome to FTE. The oil pan won't come off without pulling the motor. You can jack the motor a couple of inches if you disconnect the mounts without pulling the turbo, but the pan gasket is RTV, so you're stuck with scraping and trying to clean things up so you can put the new RTV on for the re-install.

Do you have one of those snake cameras at the CAT shop? I've read where someone just drained the oil and used one of those snake cameras and a coat hanger or some type of stiff wire to go fishing.

 

I have heard of this happening and they fished it back up to the hole. I think they used a cut coat hanger and a lot of luck but it can be done. There is a thread on here about how he did it. I seen it when I was looking for how to fix mine.

 

im probably going to just pull the turbo and intercooler pipes and oil pan its got 210k miles on it but dont want to have to go back and do this job over, or worst case it go to leaking agian when im not around some where conveient to fix it. when it started leaking i was on my way back to school and i had to put 10qts of oil in it just to get it back on the dipstick. but thanks for the help. i was trying to add a couple picture of my truck but when i click on insert picture it ask for the URL link. i've always had to browse to upload or insert a picture, can some one help me out on this.

 

When I was researching on fixing my own I came across a thread that showed a picture of this guys oil pan where he cut a small square in it and then welded it back because he dropped the flange in the abyss... Not recommending it , but its been done...

 

I just joined the "oil leak from the dipstick club". Within 40 miles I dumped 3 quarts, I was wondering why the car behind me was putting his windshield wipers on and it wasn't raining.

Oh, well - I get to have fun when it's 25 degrees outside.........

Thanks for the info & pics - I'm gonna stop by the international dealer tomorrow.

 

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO Mine is starting to leak from there Stewart your helping me!

 

Absolutely!

Ummm, you're helping me with mine, right?



We need to have a mini-tech day at your house bro. In a nice warm garage. Dropping three fuel tanks (yours, Pete's, mine), and tackling the oil leaks!

Stewart

 

It is not a bad job to change the oring out.Yes,it will puker you some but it can be done.Mine still looks good.Changing the oring will eliminate the glob on the flange that IH recommends.

 

Barry,

Any other recommendations or advice? I'm gonna try to get the parts this week and get her done over the weekend. Did you just buy the O ring or did you ket the International kit mentioned above? I'm amazed at how fast this leak produced, luckily I was close to home, if I was on the road pulling the camper I would have gone through a couple of gallons of oil and given the underside a good oil bath....

 

I was taught how to do this by Rob(rtazz17)I used a 45 cal bore brush(set at Walmart) to stick in the slot that the dipstick tube fits into.The bore brush had a short handle and I attatched a wire to the handle for a safety.The 45 will fit good and snug so you can work on getting the oring out.I bought a new inner o-ring,new dipstick o-ring and flange nut (only)at the Ford House.Remove the nut on top of the pass side head that holds the dipstick tube.Put a set of needle nose visegrips on the slot where the dipstick tube goes into.Remove the tube.Install the bore brush w/wire.Tie the wire off.Remove the nut and get it out of the way.Remove o-ring with a pick.Put some red rtv on the new o-ring and slide o-ring and new nut onto the wire for re-assembly.Get the o-ring in place on the inside and tighten up the nut until snug.Do not overtighten.
My o-ring was very hard and flat.

 

I thought I had this "make you pucker leak" but after cleaning all around the dipstick tube flange and laying under the truck while it was running it turned out to be the o-ring on the end of the dipstick tube. It's worth a check. I also put about a 3/4 turn on that big flange nut while I was under there.

 

Robin....That is what I had done at first.I had tightened the flange nut on two other occasions and found that is was backing off on me enough to start leaking agin between oil changes.My dipstick o-ring was shot so I changed it with one I had in a kit.When I finally had enough I just changed both o-rings.This is when I found the inner one to be very hard and flat so it needed changing.I also noticed that the dipstick o-ring is a double beveled o-ring so it may be better to get it from Ford.That is what I did.