Some time ago I posted about a pin hole leak developing in the joint where the waterneck is soldered to the bottom of the brass surge tank. I thought I found the pinhole and tried sealing it up with marine grade epoxy which didn't work. As there are no real radiator shops in my area that can repair the tank, I have ordered a replacement from Greg Donahue (Greg advised that vibration is what causes the cracks and to make sure that the upper radiator hose is not pressed tight up against the side of the surge tank (mine is) or radiator).

I have used the gas tank repair sealer sold by POR-15 to restore and seal my gas tank. I talked to POR-15 about using the same sealer on the inside of the brass surge tank. The tech advisor said that it would work. He said I should follow the instructions (Marine Clean to clean out the tank, Metal Ready to etch the inside of the tank, and then the sealer). He said that the sealer is impervious to coolant and will withstand heat (when cured) of up to 600 degrees F.

Have any of you tried this? Does it sound like a reasonable thing to do? Can anyone think of any problems it could cause?

Thanks in advance.

 

Not sure what kinda setup you have at your home but if you've gotta torch, why not just braze it yourself. How much does that guy want to do his seal job? If it's good for withstanding coolant and good for 600 degrees then why not other than a possible high cost?

 

Costs about $50.00. Yes, I have a torch. Yes, I have soldered/brazed on the surge tanks before. The problem for me is I would want to do every seam to make sure they don't leak. Not sure my skill level is up to that, and there is no one left in my area (Northern Virginia) that does that sort of radiator work. All the old time radiator shops have been shut down.

 

Fifty dollars well spent then.

 

I used it on my Marine tanks. It works well as a combo ro clean prep and seal a tank. However I cant confirm the heat part sorry. I can however advise on a few things.

1. Wash out the metal etch very well and use a fresh air souce to "thoroughly" dry the tank prior to adding sealant. Dont get in a hurry.......

2. Under no circumstances do you want to put the lid back on the container of sealant. "It will explode" I'd get the smallest kit they sell.. the metal ecth qt is more than enough "much more" and any extra sealer is just trash.

BOL

 

Yes. I understand. I did my gas tank with this stuff. I am looking to do this on the NEW tank, not the leaking one. More to try and prevent future pin holes then to fix the currently leaking one.

 

I'm thinking that if the POR 15 is flexible enough to maintain it's bond through the thermal cycles, the existing metal should help maintain the structural aspect of the seal.

I have $275 stuck on my brain...for a new tank that leaked? I think if another $50 makes it useable, I'd be squeakin to the seller about it.

 

The new tank from Greg Donahue is $235 including shipping and a 180 degree thermostat and gasket. After talking with some other people, I am less enamored with the idea of trying to seal the inside of the tank. Greg also recommended using one of the new generation radiator sealers from Alumaseal or Bar's Leaks. Thoughts?

 

My thoughts? This is on a Galaxy and not a truck, right? So no chance of switching to a radiator with a big top tank ?

Other ideas:

Don't want more pinholes? Use a good coolant, and change it at LEAST every 2 years.

Vibration is a good thing to think about ... but that would usually crack something, not cause pinholes. Pinholes sounds like corrosion.

I wouldn't seal a tank that doesn't have any holes Just be kind to it

 

Yes. 64 Galaxie 500 convertible. I can get a radiator from Crites that eliminates the surge tank, but it is pricey and not the look I am after. Other than the leaks, I have no cooling problems on even 90+ degree days (my limit for driving a non-air conditioned, black vinyl interior convertible. LOL).

Oh, the coolant (Prestone) get changed almost anually (this will be my fourth surge tank in five years).

I am hoping that installing the upper radiator hose as Greg Donahue recommends will help.

 

Uh, you shouldn't get any pinholes in anything changing it THAT much

I wonder - electrolysis eating away the metal somehow? Is it even possible that the tank is not electrically connected to the block somehow/someway?

 

Well, the tank is sealed to the aluminum intake with a gasket and Permatex water pump sealer. I don't remember if I use teflon tape or other sealer on the two mounting bolts. That would be the only place the tank would be grounded.