Hello all. I feel like an idiot for having to ask these things but i wont learn if i dont ask so please take it easy on me. Im very new to owning an older vehicle.

I purchased a 72 f100 yesterday with a 460 in it and auto tranny. It use to be a stick shift cause the clutch is still in there except it lays on the floor.
Can i take out the cluth pedal with no problems occuring?

Also, the truck has no working taillights, brake lights, reverse lights or blinkers on the pass side. But the flashers actually work. I also noticed that when the headlights are on they flicker on and off and the dash lights stay off but flicker on once in awhile at the same time. Do you think there is a short or should i just look into having the truck rewired or is there something i can do myself? Keep in mind i know nothing about wiring or about engines etc.

Another thing is about the brakes. It doesnt stop very well. Now to my understanding its because it has drum brakes and not power discs. I opened up the brake fluid thing and noticed the front cup is dry as a bone and the back cup i half way full. Do i fill both up or is the front one an overflow?

Now on the 460 engine. I see 3 dipsticks. One on the driver side of the engine, its really long, im assuming its for the tranny fluid? I noticed it was low but have no idea where to add fluids to it. I see a dipstick at the rear pass side of the engine as well but have no idea what its for. I also see a smaller dipstick at the front pass side of the engine, is this the one to check the oil?

Any help is greatly appreciated. I know this is some very basic simple things and im sure i seem stupid to ask but i just wasnt raised around older vehicles but i love them none the less.

thanks in advance!

Rob

 

Hi and welcome to the site!

Let's take things in the order you posted them...first, the clutch pedal. You can remove it with no problems associated to its removal, but there are a few things involved. The top of the clutch pedal has a shaft welded to it which goes through the firewall pedal bracket from left to right. This shaft serves as the pivot for both the clutch and brake pedals. If you remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the right end of the shaft, you should be able to slide the pedal to the left and out. (I haven't actually done this on one of these trucks but I've done it on a couple of Rangers, which are a PITA as there are several obstructions in the way of getting that shaft all the way to the left and out. The Bumpside looks a lot more open under the dash so it will hopefully be easier.) Then, you can either replace it with an auto trans brake-only shaft which is a little shorter, or cut the clutch pedal arm off of it and slide it back in. If you're going to cut it off anyway, you could cut it off in place with a sawzall although I hate destroying original Bumpside parts...

The lights are probably cased by several different problems. The flickering headlights/ dashlights and no taillights are most likely caused by a bad headlight switch. These switches are notorious for this. A new replacement switch is available at most auoto parts stores. Reach up behind the dash and feel the switch itself, you'll find a small button on top of the switch. Pull the switch out to turn on the lights, push the button and you'll be able to pull the switch shaft all the way out, then you can remove the bezel by unscrewing it and pull the switch out from the back and down, then unplug it. Replacement is basically the opposite, but you don't have to push the button it, just sort of slide and wiggle the switch shaft as you push it back in till it clicks in.


Be sure to check all your fuses and clean the fuse contacts as they can get rusty and dirty on these older trucks and not make electrical contact. If that doesn't help, get back to us we'll go from there.

Fill both reserviors in the master cylinder, the smaller one is for the rear brakes and the bigger one is the front brakes. If they're low or dry, you may have a leak and probably have air in the system. After filling pump the pedal and see if it gets firmer, and then gets soft again when you take your foot off for a moment. Look at all 4 brake backing plates to see if there are any signs of fluid that may indicate a leak, also look the the master cylinder where it bolts to the brake booster to see if it's left a trail of fluid that will eat the paint on the booster and can indicate a leak.

Dipsticks- the A/T stick should be the one up against the firewall on the pass. side, should have red fluid on it when you pull it out. Driver's side dipstick should be the engine oil, but I can't remember for sure on a 460. The only other dipstick should be power steering, which should be a very short dipstick at the front driver's side of the engine, fluid should be red. Some pics would be helpful.

Hope this helps, get back to us with any more questions.

 

Well Rob, 1st things 1st I suppose. . . . Welcome to FTE's 67-72 forum, and to being an owner of a "Bump Sided FoMoCo Truck

As for being an Idiot, well. . . .err I don't belive so. I'd more consider that if you did Not Ask about what you do not know, or ask what about you need/ want to learn. Asking is a sign of intelligence . You're at a good palce to ask too.

1) There is a stub shaft and an A/T (larger~wider) pedal you can install by remoning the "hair pin" style clip holding the clutch pedal shaft into the brace or pedal bracket. The key is not to drop the brake pedal as you will not know how to replace the return spring.
use stub shaft, with a light coat of oil on it, to push clutch pedal shaft thru & out. Once it's removed pull the stub shaft back out carefully watching how the return spring fits in there. Then replase the manual shift style brake pedal with the wider A/T style, insert stub shaft & replace hair clip - - - yer done.

Anything else and the brake pedal & return spring will fall out & you will have another querey for us. . . .

2) What you describe sounds to be a random, intermittent and/or broken connection and broken or loose wites. The items that do not light at all could be either bad bulbs, bad fuses, or broken~disconnected wires.

Using a test light start at farthest point & check for power working forward towards interior of cab & under dash.
This should clear up brake light-T-Sig

2a) Headlamp~Dash lamp thing sounds like a short circuit or a bad Headlight switch rheostat or circuit breaker (part of switch itself). Figuring this out should clear up head lamps, rear lamps, and instrument cluster lamp issues.

3) For Brakes, top off your master cylinder reservoirs to about 3/8ths" from top, replace cap tightly, try pumping brakes up a few times. If the pedal does not return satisfactorily, it may need bleeding. also check for leaks after replacing fluid in M-Cyl. Check fittings, lines, flex hoses & around wheel cyls &/or wheels.

4) Later on go to the archives here or to MongrelMotorsports website & read up on upgrading to Front-D/B, with power or manual style.


5) FoMoCo has no A/T with the Dipstick on the left or Driver side, can't help you there. D-Stick at front normally would, should, be your Crank Case~Oil Pan, oil level And the dipatick at the rear on the R/H or Pass Side ahouls be the A/T~ ATF level in your Transmision

6) Not asking, or not admitting you need to know, would seem more stupid to me, than to have the good sense to ask for help if you think you need it. It's those who refuse to seek help & ask questions I have to laff at

So like I said keep asking & keep learning.

FBp

 

This sure helps out alot and its greatly appreciated. I think ill snap a photo of the engine then label the dipsticks abc so i can get a better understanding. The one in front is really short. Almost like its broken off inside there or something. Ill return tomorrow with a photo. Thanks again for the help and taking the time to help out and give great explinations.

 

Rob,
Short dipstick in front is probably Power Steering pump reservior like dan said.

If it sits in a tube on top of a mechanism with a pulley & belt (if it's hooked up) on it that's a 385 series engine style Power Steering Pump. It's a saginaw style pump with slippers for part time P/S. It should be compatable with your P/S Box, or a 72 style P/S Box anyway.

BTW 385 series engines are 377, 429, & 460 CID engines. I have one in my Slick.

FBp

 

Here are a couple pics of my truck. Its not in the best of shape but im very pleased to have it and plan to really get it into great shape.




Now here is a pic i took of the engine and i labeled the dipsticks. Just want to make sure i have it correct.
A is the Tranny Fluid dipstick.... is this also where i put in tranny fluid? its a bit low.
B is the power steering fluid dipstick and its suppose to be short. Where do i put in the fluid for it?
C is the Oil dipstick, i figured out where to put the oil at on the valve cover, it was 2 qts low. i put in 10w40 which was recommended by the guys at O'Reilly.


Ok now here is a pic of the master cylinder. I filled it up earlier, went for a few drives around the neighborhood then just checked it a few minutes ago and its about 3/4 full. so i could have a leak. i noticed ceapage on the metal and i know for sure i didnt spill any when i filled it. any idea what i need to replace and where to get it?


And last but not least is a big concern of mine. I had to lay down cardboard on the garage floor do to the leakage. I crawled under the truck and looked around and felt a slimy dark color fluid on the bottom. it looked real clean so it seemed to be fresh oil to me. as you can see in the close up pic there is some major oil or something on the pan(?) or whatever it is. but there are a few things under there with oil or something on them which is where the drips in the garage are falling from. any ideas or suggestions?




Thanks again in advance for all the help so far and any more you can give me in the future. Im taking notes so i dont have to ever ask the same question twice haha. I appreciate it.

Robbie

 

B is not the Power Steering dipstick.

A is the transmission dipstick; B is the engine oil dipstick, but what C is, I dunno. Where does the C dipstick go, into the oil pan? There is no pic in any parts catalog of a 429/460 engine oil dipstick in this location.



The illustrations of the 429/460 engines in the 1965/72; 1973/79 passenger car parts catalogs, and the 1973/79 truck parts catalogs all show the engine oil B dipstick fitting into the timing cover. The power steering pump mounts on the drivers side, front of engine. It may or may not have a dipstick.

 

when i filled the oil up i checked dipstick C and it registered the oil on it so i thought that was for the oil?

dipstick B you say is the oil but its really short. i mean maybe 6 to 8 inches in length if that and nothin at all registered on it

 

B is the oil dipstick as original, It should have a Ford stamping number on the stick. Ditto for the other two dipsticks. All will have Ford ID numbers on them.

Do you have any idea what yr the engine is? I see a points distributor, which if original, the engine is a 429, as all 460's used DuraSpark II Electronic Ignition systems.

1973 was the first year a 460 was used in a F100/350, so the engine in your truck is not the original. Your truck originally came with a 6 cylinder, or a V8 302; 360 or 390. Post the VIN, it can be decoded.

From what I can see in the pics, this engine once had A/C as the compressor bracket is still there on the drivers side front.

 

Looks like a mill from a Pre 79 LTD Or Marquis. The drivers side dip stick is for the oil. The engine has a rear sump pan.

You can see the bottom of the dip stick in the under side shot.

The front dip stick is closing the stock timing cover hole. Pre 79/80 385s in cars and trucks used a front sump pan with the exception of four wheel drives and E series vans.

Garbz

 

Doubley posted error Sorry folks . . . .

 

Well Rob those photos make a lot of difference trying to figure stuff out. . .
Pretty Truck though. It doesn't look all that bad to me.

Garbz has your answer right I believe.

C is an oil pan dipstick, B is where OEM stick for a front sump engine would go. Once pan got changed dipstick B didn't fit so they cut it off to plug tube which remains but is useless in your timing cover.

It appears from photos the pan, & distribuitor have also been replaced. Some folks remedy where oil pan drain hole ends up usinga P-Car pan in a F Series truck's engine bay, by using a rear sump pan.

Also using a points type distributor is some peoples way out of figuring out how to set up a Duraspark electronic ignition system in a previously points fired vehicle. Duraspark is well worth the effort IMHO however.

Your oil leak (s) most likely come from sloppy oil pan gasket installation, bad rear intake manifold seal, or leaky rocker cover gaskets. Oil wash is showing in pictures of under belly, running down bellhousing of your C-6 A/T.

I also see draw tube that belongs between your oil filler cap & the OEM air filter housing is missing. This tube helps to relieve internal engine pressure, which if too bad can force oil out of the lower end right past seals & gaskets

The master cylinder cover gasket is not sealing where it contacts the M-Cyl reservoir bowl.


I also see vacuum lines have been either rearranged and/or omitted because your "christmas trees" are un used in the photo that shiws the dipsticks.

A blue headed screw is screwed into a rubber hose at a critical vacuum port location at front of your 4V carburetor, near it's base by intake manifold. The port is non functional

I see a "birds nest" or "electricians knot" in wiring harness in the center under your tailgate in the photo of the rear view. That my be part of your rear light problems. . .

Somebody has installed a steering stabilizer that the truck didn't come with either.

FBp

 

What Pete said... Anyway, the M/C leak (and forget what I said about a booster, you obviously don't have power brakes) can be cured by replacing that rubber seal in the lid of the reservior. Parts stores carry them, I replaced the one in my '68 for about 8 bucks I think, as it had exactly the same problem. But after you replace it be sure to keep an eye on the level and watch for leaks elsewhere in the system, especially at the wheel cylinders.

And yes, the A/T fluid is added through the dipstick hole. There's a long skinny funnel made just for that.

Overall, really nice looking truck! I think I'd add a few bolt-on dress-up and performance goodies to the engine, upgrade to electronic ignition so you don't have to mess with points every 6 months to a year, and think about doing a power front disc brake swap to help slow the beast. When someone upgrades the motor such as was done to yours, they often overlook upgrading the brakes. More go needs more whoa...

 

Wow what a heap of information. Im thrilled to have found this site and found the help in all of you. Below are my actual plans for the truck.

Mustang II front end with a link set up in back so i can put air suspension on. I may look into installing a smaller motor due to the fact that id really like to drive past a few gas stations from time to time haha. There are alot of trim pieces i plan to replace due to small dings or dents etc. Then id like to repaint the whole truck. Keeping the bottom color white but changing the top color to perhaps the seafoam color of the 2002 Thunderbirds. Then on the interior remove the dash pad, paint the dash, install carpet, redo the seat and a few other things. Maybe a vintage air set up. But first things first and thats taking car of whats at hand which are the leaks and electrical so i can at least enjoy driving it for now.

The trucks VIN is F10YLM61858 i know the truck started with a standard tranny and different motor due the the clutch pedal still being there but i have no idea what.

I noticed on the valve cover a sticker that lists some things and at the bottom it says something about this engine conforms to 1976 regulations except in CA etc. So my guess would be the engine is from a 1976 something.

 

thanks for the advice, i had thought about finding a 73-79 donor to get the brakes or perhaps doing a break upgrade then decided on a mustang II. i will get that brake res seal replaced asap. seems like a cheap and easy fix.