I did a tape measure alignment on the drive on lift at work saturday, adjusted the gearbox to make a tighter feel, it's all driving better now, but i found a problem, the rubber piece between the column and box is completely torn up, the wheel has about 6 miles of play in it, is this a hard part to change? what does it consist of?

 

That would be the rag joint, not to hard to change. You can use the serach this tread button and type in rag joint you sould find some good tips on changing it out.

 

It's also known as the steering coupler, you can pick up a kit at most auto parts stores that has the coupler and new hardware.

Here's a thread from a little while back about the coupler:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...placement.html

 

Most failures are due to oil soak, old age or both.
Be careful and check the parts store brand vs
Ford's OEM replacement, Ford's is of better quality
and yes higher priced. Rather replace once with quality
than twice with something highly possibly made over seas.

 

C9UZ-3A525-A .. Steering Coupler ~ 1969/74 F100/350

C9UZ-3A525-A Replaces Ford part numbers: C9TZ-3A525-A & D3TZ-3A525-A
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I work behind a parts counter at an automotive store.

Sometimes I'm called a genius, sometimes I'm called much more.

I'm supposed to know the Ford part numbers, of bolts, nut and gears....

For every Ford that was ever made for more than 80 years.

But life would be a pleasure, and I'd grin from ear to ear, if....

THE CUSTOMER WOULD ONLY LIST ... THE MAKE, MODEL & YEAR!!
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I'M NOT A MIND READER. IF YOU DON'T LIST WHAT THE *&(^&%^%^ YOU ARE WORKING ON, IT'S DARN NEAR IMPOSSIBLE TO HELP!

PROFILE INFO AIN'T ALWAYS CORRECT, AS SOMEONE MAY HAVE MORE THAN ONE VEHICLE.

 

Before you change the joint note the position of the steering shaft flange vs steering box input shaft, this prevents having the steering wheel not being centered when done.
This also would be a good time to check the alignment of the steering shaft to steering box input shaft alignment preventing unecessary steering box and column bearing side force as well the new joint from cab mount bushing sag over the years.
A over tight sector shaft adjustment is worse than a loose box leading to a fast steering box failure. 11-14 inch/lbs torque difference between straight ahead preload vs off center, this can only be done properly after the link or pitman arm has been removed or a bench job for the proper preload.
Without a tq wrench it can be done by "feel" if you rotate the shaft from center to off center by hand by grasping the rag joint, this allows for better feel than grasping that large steering wheel detecting preload. Again with steering box not hooked up to steering link.

 

How did you adjust your steering gear box? I hope not by cranking down on preload tension adjuster for the worm gear set up.

If so start looking for a replacement gearbox because your's is about to become "N~G" in a hurry.

FBp