its a 68 wagon model, I6 3spd on the column, and t shift dana 20. dana 44 front and stock 9" rear on 31"s
first off, i cant figure out the shift pattern for the xfer case. i assume its the stock one t-shift, but the shifting doesnt match the diagram on the console. i have been driving it with the stick all the way away from the dash. next click up is neutral, the 2 more clicks. which one is 2wd hi, 4wd hi and 4wd lo?
second question is: is there a way to adjust the clutch? it releases at the very end of the pedal, and if its a new clutch i need, where can i find one for the I6? all i seem to see is for the v8.
last question, i think i would like to keep the I6, is there any way to squeeze more power out of it? it was supposedly rebuilt a few years back and it runs cherry, also has a flowmaster on it that sounds nice.
almost forgot, the brake warning light stays on all the time, how do i go about figuring out the deal with that?
allright! got the pattern down with a little messin with the driveshaft. took some finesse to figure it out and get it into certain gears without passing them.
also, is there a 4 or 5 speed that will mate up to the I6? the more i drive it, the more i like the idea of an inline 6 over the 8.
I'm not sure if the 68s have a porportioning brake valve but my 74 has one and was the cause for my brake warning light to stay on.It's pretty easy is to locate. Just follow your brake tubing from your master cylinder down to a block with a single wire switch connected to it. Unplug the electrical connecter to the switch on the block and see if the light goes off on your dash. If it does then you may have to reset your switch to the center position.
You can check the low level switch like NumberD said but mine is not equipped with one.
Last edited by mauicruza : 07-01-2007 at 02:24 AM.
Oops sorry guys, I thought maybe some of the Broncos were equipped with a low level sensor on the m/c reservoir cap which would be really cool if ever existed.
Oops sorry guys, I thought maybe some of the Broncos were equipped with a low level sensor on the m/c reservoir cap which would be really cool if ever existed.
There was a four speed used on Falcons with 170 engines. The Made in England Ford/Dagenham 4 speed. It was also used on some early Econolines. The transmissions are rare...Parts are rarer.
1967 and later Bronco's have a proportioning valve. This is where the pesky low brake fluid warning light switch (2B264) is located. The valve is located on the left outboard side of the frame rail, above and to the rear of the front axle.
The clutch has an adjustment rod on the clutch release lever (fork). The rod is three pieces. A threaded rod with an eyelet on one end, a nut, and a sliding adjustment extension (2 27/32"-long). The 6 cylinder rod is different than the one for a V8.
NOTE: All 1967/77 Bronco's have the low brake fluid warning light switch on the proportioning valve. The same switch = C8AZ-2B264-A is used 67/77. This switch was a part of the US government mandated safety laws for all car and trucks beginning in 1967.
There are four different proportioning valves: 1967 = C7TZ-2B257-B / 1968/74 = C8TZ-2B257-B / 1975 = D5TZ-2B257-A / 1976/77 = D5TZ-2B257-B.
__________________ Bill / Retired Ford Parts Manager ~ 1962/1997
Part Number Research: Trucks: 1928/2002 / Cars: 1928/2003
1963 Galaxie 500XL / 1965 F100 / 2008 Fusion S / 2008 Edge SEL
Last edited by NumberDummy : 07-03-2007 at 05:17 AM.
Top loader 4 spd should work with a I6. It will cost a few $$$
You don't have a stock D44 front, It would have been transplanted. Open knuckles? easy to check.
You could just disconnect the prop valve light unless you don't keep an eye on your fluid levels.
If your clutch is in need of replacement it should slip, chatter horribly, or throwout bearing will make a lot of noise with clutch pedal depressed, quiet when out. Otherwise just adjust a few turns on the linkage rod.
How about a picture of your 68? Is it solid? I have a few pics of my 68 in my gallery.
it is incredibly almost rust free. light surface rust here and there. has some dents and needs a little pulling here and there, but overall in good shape. i need a few things before i put the rest of the family in it, and some new gears. a top speed of 65 downhill just isnt safe. i may snap a few pics of it today and get some pics up this weekend.
It may have come with the 4.56 gears. Rare, but mine did. Also LS front and rear. yours sounds pretty stock so it may have the ID tags on the diff covers still.
I would not get in a hurry to change those out. I would put the money twards a good 3.5" lift kit and 33" tall tires. That would help bring your rpm down a bit. Then swap out that tranny for a 4sp with od or the NV3550. You can go to Advance Adapters.Com to check out tranny options.
i have no idea where the axle code is, but here is the info off the vin, and maybe you guys can tell me what the sequences mean. bottom row belowvin reads as follows:
092 6 u150 1 98 c 03
bootom below : 63
that top speed was not from winding out, but from lack of balls for a lack of a better term. but i did find a header and 2bbl intake adapter that i want to get. probably have to make room through the hood for that intake though.
I have a 67 with the same t-case and break warning light. atarting at the dash the shift pattern is 4wd-low, Neutral, 2wd High, 4wd high. sometimes it is tricky to shift from 4hi to 2hi, without sliding right through 2hi and into neutral {usually happs at worst possible times}. Also sometimes it may be hard to shift out of 4-wheel drive after driving on harder ground and building up stress up in the drivelines. I have found an easy way to fix this by just unlocking the hubs first and then moving the bronco forward or back a short distance, then the t-case will shift easily.
The brake light is a fun one to get to go off. It comes on when there is an imbalance in two halves of the brake system. The trick is to bleed the brakes very good and equalize the pressure in each half of the system. Two wheels are on each side of the system and the proportioning valve has a slider inside that activates the light if one half of the brakes are at a lower pressure than the other half. The theory behind this is that if a wheel cylinder blows its seal, or a brake line ruptures, you will only lose braking ability to two of the wheels and the3 other two wheels will still have some braking ability to stop the vehicle. I can't remember exactly how the system is divided, if it is front and rear , or if it is left and right sides. I do know that if you change from the 4-wheel drum setup to front discs or to 4-wheel discs, you must get a different proportioning valve to make every thing work properly.
I am just relying from memory, as I don't have my shop manuals readily available. I know that when I replaced the master cylinder that even after bench bleeding, I still had a terrible time bleeding the brakes to get the light to go out. But the good news is that once, I got everything finally set for the light to go out, it has stayed out for almost 3 years now and the brakes still work goos, (or as good as 4-wheel drum brakes can.
My next project is to install front discs. I have a complete front Dana 30 or 44 axle from a 74 blazer that had disc brakes and everything will swap from the spindles out. The only thing I need to buy is new hub/rotors with the 5-hole pattern and new pads. I even have the proportioning valve from the chevy which will make for an easy swap.
__________________
Scott
1979, F250 4x4 400/C6 reg cab XLT Ranger Chrome Yellow/ White
2003 F150 SuperCrew 4x4 5.4/auto
1979 F150 4x4 351m/manual parts truck
1967 Bronco wagon 4x4 289/3 on tree
1963 Ford Falcon Ranchero 170/3 on tree
1963 Ranchero rolling chassis parts vehicle
