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Old 06-17-2007, 07:49 PM
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BATTERY WIRING, and BATTERIES in General

You will hear the terms "SERIES" and "PARALLEL" in reference to wiring batteries.

THE SIMPLEST I can put it is to point out how batteries go into a MAG LIGHT...

MAG LIGHT flashlights are an example of series wiring. Each battery is one and a half volts. TWO batteries in line like that are THREE volts. (One and a half, plus one and a half). If there are three batteries - it's a 4.5 volt flashlight. Nice to know when replacing bulbs...

Five battery maglights are 7.5 volt bulbs.

THAT IS SERIES BATTERY 101 CLASS in a nutshell.

PARALLEL is different, and this is how:

Instead of voltage adding up, current does while the voltage remains the same.

You have seen Cold Cranking Amperes marked on a battery, yeah?
Add them up in parallel.

Now - if you only have two batteries to deal with, it's pretty simple. Suppose you have FOUR six volt batteries? What then?

Bluntly - a pair of each will be wired in series, and then the total output of the pair is wired in parallel with the other pair.

Wired wrong, you could get 24 volts at the original CCA of each battery. OR you could get six volts with enough amperes to power quartzite for about ten minutes.... (exageration)

Simplified: Two six volts in series equals a very large twelve volt battery.

Two sets of those added together in parallel IS STILL TWELVE VOLTS, but has enough current to fire up a Peterbuilt.

I don't know if I rehashed and restated that enough for you to clearly see it, so if you have questions just ask. I'll make a diagram if I have to.


~Wolfie

NOW ON TO THE PS:

When in hell did you last clean your positive terminal? I don't care about the negative (ground one), the positive is the trouble maker - especially in cold climates. And you have lots of terminals to clean if you have a multi-battery system.

I'VE GOT NEWS! WE SELL MORE BATTERIES BECAUSE PEOPLE SEEM TO THINK A NUCLEAR REACTOR with a one hundred year fuel rod is providing twelve volts to their RV...

It ain't so...

And you can save a lot of cash if you just do normal maintenance to the battery(s) you have just like you would for a car or truck.

Also - DO NOT!!!! - use car batteries in an RV. They're not the same, in this way: A car battery will discharge untill it is DONE AND OVER WITH.

DEEP CYCLE batteries will refuse to output beyond a certain point, in order to save the plates inside from damage.

You can discharge a DC until it won't put out, and charge it back up. You can't get away with that using a plain old car battery - it will short internally.

Do yourself a favor and surf online concerning different battery types. There is a ton of info out there, and you will save a lot of trouble and cash by knowing what you are dealing with to begin with.
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Last edited by Greywolf; 06-17-2007 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 06-19-2007, 11:59 AM
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Thanks Wolf, but I'm still curious on the best way. Should I take the positive from Battery A to the rig and jumped to Battery B, then neg to neg and Battery B neg to the rig? Clear as mud?? Also, I assume the bigger gauge for the jumper the better...4 gauge enough? Thanks again for the help...Brian
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Old 06-19-2007, 03:52 PM
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With the batteries connected in parallel, it really isn't going to make much difference if the rig is primarily connected to both terminals of one or one terminal of each - as long as the jumpers are heavy enough, and 4 ga. should be plenty. If someone is convinced there is an advantage to hooking onto one terminal of each, there is no harm in that.
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Old 06-19-2007, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95van
With the batteries connected in parallel, it really isn't going to make much difference if the rig is primarily connected to both terminals of one or one terminal of each - as long as the jumpers are heavy enough, and 4 ga. should be plenty. If someone is convinced there is an advantage to hooking onto one terminal of each, there is no harm in that.
Here is a good resource:
http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html

According to this, you are correct if there are only two batteries in the bank. As the number of batteries increases the importance of balancing the load also increases.
Bill
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Old 06-19-2007, 09:03 PM
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And please check your electrolite levels after charging. Don't let them plates get exposed.
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Old 06-25-2007, 09:25 PM
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And please check your electrolite levels after charging. Don't let them plates get exposed.
Excellent advice. The less plate area that is acted on by the electrolyte - the more corrosion happens inside the cell.
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Old 06-25-2007, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bneafus
Thanks Wolf, but I'm still curious on the best way. Should I take the positive from Battery A to the rig and jumped to Battery B, then neg to neg and Battery B neg to the rig? Clear as mud?? Also, I assume the bigger gauge for the jumper the better...4 gauge enough? Thanks again for the help...Brian
Yes. (?)

- I think...

DRAT!

I can see that I need to draw a diagram, and it may not be tonight.



Okay (to begin with) point "A" and point "C" are the same electrical point. it makes no difference which you connect the positive to.


Point "B" and point "D" are also the same - you can hook to either battery. Both are the positive and negative ends.


Does this help any?

The resistance between them (on the connecting wires) is negligible, so you have a PAIR with a positive and negative side.
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Old 06-26-2007, 06:46 PM
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He thinking hooking A as Postive and D as Negative to the RV. This way your not pulling from A & B and balance the two batteries .
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Old 06-27-2007, 12:14 AM
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You haven't seen a four battery scheme yet. I'm not going there tonight.

It gets like that, only quadrupled.....

The options for connections make it a thing to think about carefully.

ALFA coaches were a pain for that. They only supply enough wire to connect it exactly the right way.
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Old 06-27-2007, 12:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firesoutmatt
He thinking hooking A as Postive and D as Negative to the RV. This way your not pulling from A & B and balance the two batteries .
It makes no difference. Electrically - if the contacts are clean - it is the same electrical place.

If the positives are the same, and the negatives are the same, pair them up however you want. A to D, A to B, C to B, C to D, the only consideration is what is positive and what is negative.
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Last edited by Greywolf; 06-27-2007 at 12:32 AM.
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Old 06-27-2007, 12:43 AM
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The problems come when the terminals are not quite clean and the wire to terminal joints get a little corrosion. This "corrosion" etc can happen fairly quickly. Then it is best to hook up at A & D.
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Old 06-28-2007, 07:33 AM
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Since the corrosion will pretty much be on the positive post, whichever ground you choose to use really isn't going to make much difference - the ground will tend to be balanced.
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Old 06-28-2007, 09:33 PM
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Thermal runaway is possible with a lot of amps and a little dirt on a connection (if anything draws the full load).

This is where resistance causes heat, the heat causes carbon deposits, the carbon deposits cause resistance, and so it goes around. The end results are spectacular!

Thermite could do no worse....
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