I'm posting in this forum because I don't get any reply's in the Suspension forum.

I know I'v been posting alot to do with lifts and such, but please, bare with me


Whats needed for a complete and proper Install. This is for my 1977 Ford F-150 4x4.

• getting skyjacker 6" lift that includes Coils, Blocks and U-bolts.
• I am also converting to the T-style steering system if necessary
• Getting 6" Pitman arm drop
• And Extending brake lines if necessary
• Longer shocks

So if anyone could just list other things I will be needing, that would be great.

thx

Does anybody know of any complete kits for my truck? 6" Or atleast more complete than this skyjacker one.

 

C-bushings?

 

I priced everything for a 6" lift on my 78'. Here is what I have listed:

coils
shocks
extended brake lines
dropped pitman arm
dropped radius arm brackets
all new bushings
all new rear leaf springs (I don't want to use blocks for the lift)
steering stabilizer

This should be everything needed for a complete lift. I priced everything with NTW and found them to be about the best company to get the kit(s) from. There is no "complete" lift kit for these trucks. Everything has to be pieced together. Skyjacker is, IMHO, the best lift out there for these old trucks. Hope this helps you some.

 

My 77 has a 4" and 35" tires which should be max on the Dana44 axle. Take a look at my gallery and see if that's what you might want to do instead.
I have a rough country lift from JC Witney I used the front coils and track bar drop bracket and 7* C-bushings all included in kit. I didn't use the block for the rear but instead the add-a-leaf.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...150968&width=0

 

At 6"s of lift driveshaft length can be an issue, front and/or rear.

 

Sorry to go off-topic in someone else's thread but that is the best looking 70s F150 I have ever seen.. did you really only pay $500 for that? (The "before" picture) ..

 

Ya plus some back reg. to the DMV about 800-900 total.
and now jumping right back into topic I think what people are trying to say is a 6" is a big step up in modification/installation from a 4" and the functional end-result is the same due to max tire size for your axles.
The steering conv. will cost you $200.00 if you really shop around and make some chain stores pricematch+additional discount like I did. and the lift is around 200+the add-a-leaf rear (50), new shocks can add up quickly but you'll have a bigger sellection in the 4" lift catagory.

 

35" tires aren't max for a D44, but close to it. I'd say MAX is about 37s.

Skyjacker is a great lift, but there are other options.

I pieced all my 6" lift together from www.broncograveyard.com
I got deaver coil springs(very flexy, smooth ride, great spring)
About $150
adjustable track bar $110
C bushings 7* $23 (I didn't get the 48 piece, b/c trac bar I bought came with some already).
2 Extended SS brake lines for about $70(if anyone wants to know a different way to extend their brake line for about $5, just ask).
Radius arm drop brackets(4")$160
Radius arm bushings $10
drop pitman arm(I got one off of ebay for $10) about $55-65
I already had a add a leaf on my bronco when I bought it, so I was going to do a shackle flip for the other 3"s needed, but I would of had to drop my gas tank to do so, so I just put 3" blocks instead that I got in a junkyard for free, and bought new U bolts for $25.
I got all my shocks(skyjacker nitros) from summitracing.com for about $160, but their's a company that sells them on ebay for $120-130.

If you would do a 4" lift which would still clear 36"s. You would not need the adjustable track bar, just a drop bracket(save about $90). You could do a shackle flip for the rear, so you'd save some money there. You could use 3" RA drop brackets which is about $50 cheaper, among other things.

 

the crossmember is incorperated into the track arm on a 77 f150 so the drop brackets would need 2 b custom made, that's why the 4" would be a bit easier IMHO.

Most people get uneasy putting any bigger than 35"s on a half ton. brakes suffer,bearings cry,u-joints go out (unless you re-gear) axle shafts break, ect. you know.

 

I could just get the steering conversion from the autowrecker, couldn't I?

 

Sure. that should be fine

 

35" vs 37" depends on the engine mods and driving habits. The Dana 44 is border line with 37" tires but if you have a stock or near stock engine and do a lot of mall crawling it would be fine. If you have a lot of extra hp, lockers up front or do serious off roading you might want to stay with the 35" or less.

I ran DANA 44 with 44" Gound Hawgs, solid lockers up front and 500+HP. I got real damn good at changing axles and gear sets too. I normally keep about 12 spare front axles before hunting season started and needed more by the end.

If you want to treat it rough and use it off road and hate breaking stuff stay with 35" or upgrade the alxes to DANA 60's

 

Not everyone can afford or find or want the down time that it takes to do the swap or have the tools/time to have a D60 front axle. They do sell for about $1,500 + if fully complete.

A couple hundred in alxe shafts would be easier, and obviously cheaper.

My tires measure to be 36.8" tall, and I have stock have ton axles with 4.56 gears, a locker in the front, and spool in the rear. I've done a few mods to the engine, but not 500 hp.
I do beat on it, but don't try and climb rocks at full throttle while bouncing, just hammer down in the mud.

 

I know this thread is really old, but it was pretty helpful to me after searching so I'm bringing it back and adding to it. For newbs, HERE is a link to a picture describing the terms (the vehicle isn't a ford, but same components and similar set up).

Below is a list of some items I link to in an effort to complete what is needed to do the lift. Because I am no fabricator or welder, though I have mechanical ability, I am very big on having the correct parts for the job and don't like improvising or "making things work." I hate having to stop in the middle of a project to get the appropriate part because I want to complete a task when I start, so believe in having the right tool for the job.

Does anyone know if the 6" skyjacker system come with radius arm drop brackets? If not, HERE is a link to a pair.

Does anyone actually have the 6" lift on a 76-79 F150? If so, did the front driveshaft angles bind? I can always go 4" suspension, 3" body lift, but I'd prefer to do it all suspension.

To add to this thread, HERE is a good link to the T steering conversion from the inverted Y for the 1976 and 1977 F150s.

HERE is a link to the drop pitman arm for when you do the lift.

HERE is a link to the Superlift adjustable track bar. I'm not sure what the poster above means when he says "the crossmember is incorperated into the track arm on a 77 f150 so the drop brackets would need 2 b custom made, that's why the 4" would be a bit easier IMHO." the track arm, I assume, means track bar? wouldn't that ultimately be corrected with the adjustable track bar?

Other than shocks, I think this is everything needed to do the T steering swap and put on the 6" lift from skyjacker. I'll wait to see what everyone/anyone says as to whether the front driveshaft binds when the 6" lift is on.