I put those 9mm Ford Racing wires on and I'm wondering if anyone can tell me a good way to route the passenger bank.......No's 1,2,3,4. I've never seen the factory routing so I'm totally unfamiliar with that.
I do want to get some looms and/or separators and clean it up. Ideas on the Drivers side bank are great too.
`92 F150 Flareside - IRIS MET/Gray
5.0, AOD, 355 gears, dual glasspacks no cats, K&N drop in filter, MSD Blaster Coil, Cap and Rotor, Ford Racing 9mm wires - Blue
It's not pink......it's IRIS.
WHATEVER you do, make sure that you don't run 7 & 8 side by side. I speak from experience, the engine will run like poop if you don't keep those two separated as long as possible. EVEN with new wires, you will get crossfire on 7 and 8.
1992 F-150 SWB,5.0L EFI - EEC-IV, M5OD
1986 T-Bird, 3.8L CFI, C5
1970 VW Beetle Baja, A REAL VW
You can buy a lightning shortblock from svo for about $1700. However, I would hesitate for you to mate that behind an aod-e. Unless you are fluent in the binary code utilizing TweeCer or Moates QH. There may be a mustang binary code that you could tweak to make it work... but it will be on your shoulders to beta test it.
If you are set on a the lightning block setup...you would be best off finding a rebuildable e4od tranny core ($250-400) (make sure it is a small block bellhousing as well) and swap the lightning block at the same time. A lightning ECU is a cheap find if your savvy in junk yards or ebay. The lightning SD ecu will tame the motor and tranny in tandem. If it wasn't an electronically controlled AOD... you would have many many more options.
The only tricky part of this swap will be finding a driveshaft of correct length. This is secondary to having the motor and tranny behaving together, and properly, in my opinion. Worst case scenario... a custom length driveshaft might leave you $300 more in parts.
A mismatched tranny, motor, ecu logic, you name it... can you leave you much deeper in the pockets.
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