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Rear Shocks on 2002 F150

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  #16  
Old 01-13-2013, 08:10 PM
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It's a lot easier to cut just below the top nut with a sawzall or a die grinder. I replaced mine with KYB Monomax (great improvement over the stock Ranchos).
 
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Old 01-13-2013, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by khadma
I bet I can beat anybody in rear shock replacement.

Holes in the bed over the top nuts makes the job a cake walk.

I need to replace shocks during this week along with brake pads and

front anti sway bar bushings from Energy Suspension.

(Mickey Mouse smiley here)
 
  #18  
Old 01-13-2013, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 2Fords1Jeep
It's a lot easier to cut just below the top nut with a sawzall or a die grinder. I replaced mine with KYB Monomax (great improvement over the stock Ranchos).
I'll still beat you on the reinstall!

How many miles on the KYBs? It's good to get input on all

The different shocks available, sometimes the more expensive

Shocks are not the best. Yet, shock performance is subjective.
 
  #19  
Old 01-13-2013, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 2Fords1Jeep
(Mickey Mouse smiley here)
That's cute, that will go great with my hello kitty stickers

On my rear window. Thanks.
 
  #20  
Old 01-15-2013, 05:47 AM
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KYB Monomax, the only way to go. I've had mine on for 8 yrs. (F150 4x4) and they still work perfectly, what a great ride and handling to. Ranchos suck, replaced two sets of them and called it quits, junk!
 
  #21  
Old 01-15-2013, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by BFTUFF
KYB Monomax, the only way to go. I've had mine on for 8 yrs. (F150 4x4) and they still work perfectly, what a great ride and handling to. Ranchos suck, replaced two sets of them and called it quits, junk!
Which Ranchos? RS 5000s?

I would like to try adjustable shocks on a truck, but discovering that they were bad would not be a good

thing. It is amazing how expensive shocks can be, the last two used Explorers we bought still had the OEM shocks installed.
 
  #22  
Old 01-16-2013, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by khadma
Which Ranchos? RS 5000s?

I would like to try adjustable shocks on a truck, but discovering that they were bad would not be a good

thing. It is amazing how expensive shocks can be, the last two used Explorers we bought still had the OEM shocks installed.
Yes, they were horse sh$&. Keep in mind that good shocks like the KYB Monomax will cost more upfront but will save you money in the long run by not having to replace them over and over. Buy them, you won't be disappointed!
 
  #23  
Old 01-16-2013, 04:30 PM
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KYB Monomax: Not worth the price

I have been running the KYB Monomax shocks since last Spring (2012), and I really don't like them. They are only marginally better than the stock units at low to moderate speeds where the truck feels a bit tighter over small road bumps, but about the same as OEM at higher speeds. They are decent on bad fire roads, and jeep trails.
However, they did nothing to improve the ride/handling over road undulations. I get repeated side to side sway in sharp turns on roads with uneven surfaces, and worse, I get front end float on straight roads when I hit undulations, especially when towing (even light and well balanced loads), almost scary at highway speeds. The OEM shocks were about the same at the end of their life.
The upside? I like the red color and how they look under the truck...

Normally, I run Bilsteins or Koni, but I thought I'd try the Monomax shocks and I really wish I didn't.

I have Bilsteins in my Porsche, F350, and had them in my Ranger, and they have matched my expectations in each case.

That's my 2 cents....
 
  #24  
Old 01-16-2013, 05:02 PM
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Exclamation

IMHO an angle grinder with a metal cutting wheel is a basic tool for any DIY'er. I don't know how I got to the age of 50 without using one. It would have saved so much time and busted knuckles.
If you are not reusing an item, CUT IT OUT!
 
  #25  
Old 01-17-2013, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by ewalt98
I have been running the KYB Monomax shocks since last Spring (2012), and I really don't like them. They are only marginally better than the stock units at low to moderate speeds where the truck feels a bit tighter over small road bumps, but about the same as OEM at higher speeds. They are decent on bad fire roads, and jeep trails.
However, they did nothing to improve the ride/handling over road undulations. I get repeated side to side sway in sharp turns on roads with uneven surfaces, and worse, I get front end float on straight roads when I hit undulations, especially when towing (even light and well balanced loads), almost scary at highway speeds. The OEM shocks were about the same at the end of their life.
The upside? I like the red color and how they look under the truck...

Normally, I run Bilsteins or Koni, but I thought I'd try the Monomax shocks and I really wish I didn't.

I have Bilsteins in my Porsche, F350, and had them in my Ranger, and they have matched my expectations in each case.

That's my 2 cents....
On my 98', they made an astonishing difference in ride quality and handling. Everyone who ride in the truck comments on how great it rides. No shock I've ever owned has lasted anywhere near this long. I love them and recommend them to others all the time with great return info.
 
  #26  
Old 01-18-2013, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by BFTUFF
On my 98', they made an astonishing difference in ride quality and handling. Everyone who ride in the truck comments on how great it rides. No shock I've ever owned has lasted anywhere near this long. I love them and recommend them to others all the time with great return info.
Once I have some extra cash, I'm gong to replace the KYB's with Bilstein's. It will be interesting to see how the ride changes, or not....
 
  #27  
Old 01-18-2013, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by artfd
IMHO an angle grinder with a metal cutting wheel is a basic tool for any DIY'er. I don't know how I got to the age of 50 without using one. It would have saved so much time and busted knuckles.
If you are not reusing an item, CUT IT OUT!
I was going to suggest using a reciprocating saw with a new steel cutting

Blade, but this idea might be too MICKEY MOUSE for some people.

I have resorted to removing 14 year old rusted OEM shocks of an Explorer

With a Tigersaw. The Tigersaw could actually fit into places a grinder could

Not fit.


I have new Bilsteins ready to be installed on my F150, I will let you guys

Know my impressions after a couple of days with the new shocks.
 
  #28  
Old 01-19-2013, 01:57 AM
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My brother went through 3 sets of Bilsteins in short order, just regular town and hwy. driving. They all bleed oil. No thanks.
 
  #29  
Old 01-19-2013, 06:36 AM
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anyone?!............................
 
  #30  
Old 01-19-2013, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by khadma
I was going to suggest using a reciprocating saw with a new steel cutting

Blade, but this idea might be too MICKEY MOUSE for some people.

I have resorted to removing 14 year old rusted OEM shocks of an Explorer

With a Tigersaw. The Tigersaw could actually fit into places a grinder could

Not fit.


I have new Bilsteins ready to be installed on my F150, I will let you guys

Know my impressions after a couple of days with the new shocks.
"It's a lot easier to cut just below the top nut with a sawzall or a die grinder." I believe a sawzall is the same as a reciprocating saw and yes, cutting holes in a perfectly good truck body to get at 2 nuts is not something I would ever do or recommend.

The KYB's were a great change for my truck. Ride and handling is 100% better than the stock Ranchos.
 


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