Cali fuel pump replacement
#1
Cali fuel pump replacement
You can read the 5 pages of heart ache or read the quick fix. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...fuel-leak.html
This is what I did:
1st removed the fuel filter cover. Remove the "Y" pipe from turbo to heads. Then took a hammer and screw driver to the black Bosch dampner and tapped it loose(lefty loosey). Then removed the fuel filet housing 2 10 mm nuts on the right and 2 14mm? nuts on the bottom. loosen the all the fuel lines (hose clamps...I replaced them when I put it back together).
BANJO BOLT: Remove the engine pull hook on the left rear. get a MIT (Made In Tiwan) stubby 1/2 in driver with a swivel at the neck and a 1-1/4 socket 12 pointer. (you will NEVER get it with a wrench). put it on the Banjo bolt and a cheater bar and loosen it up untill it comes away from the back of the fuel pump. NOTE! THE TURBO IS NOT DISTURBED. pull the 2 bolts that hold the pump down and get your pry bars in there and pull straight up! Dont ***** foot around with it...yank that baby straight up! Install the new pump on the fuel filter housing with the hoses then drop into place (housing and pump together). slip the banjo bolt back in and tighten it on down put the FPR back on (2 10mm bolts) If you damage the 0 ring there a temporary black rubber 0 ring should do till you can get to the dealer for the right one. You can replace the dampner with a plug or screw that baby back on with the copper washer....snug it up with your hammer and screw driver. hopefully you will only have to repeat this every 150K miles or so. Before you do this please read the following threads for better idea:
http://pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/_import/pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/index3.html
Cat=0&Board=9497upgrades1&Number=3354186&Searchpag e=1&Main=3353831&Words=dampner&topic=&Search=true# Post3354186
Cat=0&Number=3354137&an=0&page=1#Post3354137
JUST REMEMBER THE TURBO DOES NOT HAVE TO COME OFF TO REPLACE THE FUEL PUMP ON CALI MODELS.
This is what I did:
1st removed the fuel filter cover. Remove the "Y" pipe from turbo to heads. Then took a hammer and screw driver to the black Bosch dampner and tapped it loose(lefty loosey). Then removed the fuel filet housing 2 10 mm nuts on the right and 2 14mm? nuts on the bottom. loosen the all the fuel lines (hose clamps...I replaced them when I put it back together).
BANJO BOLT: Remove the engine pull hook on the left rear. get a MIT (Made In Tiwan) stubby 1/2 in driver with a swivel at the neck and a 1-1/4 socket 12 pointer. (you will NEVER get it with a wrench). put it on the Banjo bolt and a cheater bar and loosen it up untill it comes away from the back of the fuel pump. NOTE! THE TURBO IS NOT DISTURBED. pull the 2 bolts that hold the pump down and get your pry bars in there and pull straight up! Dont ***** foot around with it...yank that baby straight up! Install the new pump on the fuel filter housing with the hoses then drop into place (housing and pump together). slip the banjo bolt back in and tighten it on down put the FPR back on (2 10mm bolts) If you damage the 0 ring there a temporary black rubber 0 ring should do till you can get to the dealer for the right one. You can replace the dampner with a plug or screw that baby back on with the copper washer....snug it up with your hammer and screw driver. hopefully you will only have to repeat this every 150K miles or so. Before you do this please read the following threads for better idea:
http://pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/_import/pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/index3.html
Cat=0&Board=9497upgrades1&Number=3354186&Searchpag e=1&Main=3353831&Words=dampner&topic=&Search=true# Post3354186
Cat=0&Number=3354137&an=0&page=1#Post3354137
JUST REMEMBER THE TURBO DOES NOT HAVE TO COME OFF TO REPLACE THE FUEL PUMP ON CALI MODELS.
Last edited by Copedawg; 05-27-2007 at 08:11 PM.
#4
I am glad this could help! I was dreading the turbo removal too. My motto is "If there is a short cut, I'll find it"! I remember this being the key:
BANJO BOLT: Remove the engine pull hook on the left rear. get a MIT (Made In Tiwan) stubby 1/2 in driver with a swivel at the neck and a 1-1/4 socket 12 pointer
The right tools made all the difference. Goodluck and let us know how it went.
BANJO BOLT: Remove the engine pull hook on the left rear. get a MIT (Made In Tiwan) stubby 1/2 in driver with a swivel at the neck and a 1-1/4 socket 12 pointer
The right tools made all the difference. Goodluck and let us know how it went.
#5
I am glad this could help! I was dreading the turbo removal too. My motto is "If there is a short cut, I'll find it"! I remember this being the key:
BANJO BOLT: Remove the engine pull hook on the left rear. get a MIT (Made In Tiwan) stubby 1/2 in driver with a swivel at the neck and a 1-1/4 socket 12 pointer
The right tools made all the difference. Goodluck and let us know how it went.
BANJO BOLT: Remove the engine pull hook on the left rear. get a MIT (Made In Tiwan) stubby 1/2 in driver with a swivel at the neck and a 1-1/4 socket 12 pointer
The right tools made all the difference. Goodluck and let us know how it went.
#6
It does have threads. I believe they are pipe thread but I don't know the size, (somewhere between small and real small). I looked in my tool box for a cap of somesort but couldn't find anything so I screwed it back on.
#7
Thanks, maybe some other chime in here about the size. It would be good if you had taken a pic of that dampner´s thread.
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#8
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum170/index2.html
#9
welp it has been 2 1/2 years since I replaced my pump.
I am looking for a fuel leak and was hoping it was that stinky banjo bolt (unfortunalty it wasn't). It might be a worn pump again b/c I shimmed my fpr for a few months and prematurely wore it out. But anyway I want to show you what I used to check it: Don't laugh at the dirt.
So you don't need to remove the turbo to get to that bolt, just the engine puller
I am looking for a fuel leak and was hoping it was that stinky banjo bolt (unfortunalty it wasn't). It might be a worn pump again b/c I shimmed my fpr for a few months and prematurely wore it out. But anyway I want to show you what I used to check it: Don't laugh at the dirt.
So you don't need to remove the turbo to get to that bolt, just the engine puller
#11
#13