Hi all. I just purchased a '66 step-side with the 240 cid. I am planning to start with the frame restoration here in the next few days. The man I bought the truck from recommended a product called POR 15. I checked up on it and its really expensive. Is it worth it? Does anyone know of it? I saw someone else post to buy quality and cry only once, but I don't want to spend that kind of money when I can get something equally effective for less.
The Off Shore Oil Rigs in the Ocean's Salt Water & Salt spray do not use POR products they use phosphoric acid based iron oxide conversion liquids such as Ospho. Then a durable finish coating over that which can be re-worked if need be.
When these modifiers are applied properly they will convert Iron Oxide to an oxygen impervious barrier which stops oxygen based corrosion & creates a barrier in one step.
The next step is use a good finish product that can be worked in the future if a need arises. Once metal is encased within the resin based POR products you have to break or chip it off. It seeks to prevent rust by encasing the metal within the POR based encasing coating.
Once POR 15 coats something there is no re working without 1st removing the encasing & chemically cure hardened POR 15. Also get & read the MSDS Sheet for POR 15, and be wary of the potential for the creation of Isocyanates during the application process. Isocyanates are a highly toxic substance that become synthesized when POR chemical ingredients become exposed to Atmosphere during their cure time.
Hey, it's your truck, your health & your life, just be sure what you are delving into.
FBp, thanks for your input. I will probably go the Ospho route, a it seems easier to get and less dangerous. The next step is to remove the POR 15 the guy put on the frame already. Again, thanks alot.
Do a google or yahoo search on rust converters you'll get some good product leads. Stick to the 1 step types. They are all basically the same. Application consists of clean degrease and paint. When dried it acts as a primer and can be top coated. I use Defender II from State Chemical at the water treatment plant where I work. It works great on steel that gets exposed to chlorine fumes all thje time.
F100 NewB,
You got the idea. The best part of converters is if there is a malfunction you can remedy it easily if you used a conversion chemical to change the rust into a barrier coat, But with encapsulation method, well you see where that goes, I'm Sure. BTW Welcome to FTE & the 61-66 Forum, see you on the boards.
FBp
Last edited by FordBoypete : 05-22-2007 at 04:21 PM.
Ospho will go on and you will have an acidic odor. After it does it's work, there will be a dark grey dust film built up. I have used this on everything from 5-ton trucks to boat trailers that get dipped repeatedly into salt water. Ospho has been around for over 30 years which should attest to its functionality.
Thanks to all for the help with the item above. On a new topic in the same restoration, where should exhaust modifications fall into the engine rehabilitation process. The 240 in the truck runs fine, but I would like to help it run even better. Should I do the exhaust now, or spend time on the intake and the like first?
Offenhauser makes an affordable 4bbl intake for the 240/300, and I have had good performance out of my Heddman header, and neither one broke the bank, another thing for the engine, go with electronic dist. I do NOT miss replacing and adjusting the points at all. And yes having done a few different things with these older trucks, cry once!!! Bite the bullet and do it right once,,,, been there, done that AND have the scars!!
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BTW Welcome to FTE & the 61-66 Forum, see you on the boards. 
