I did not do that one. It's just one I saw and took a pic of for another guy. Two more puters to check for pic's of Old Blue.

 

OK .. thats cool anyways,.,.
thanks for all your help..
I KNOW WE will be talking more and more as I get into this deeper..
I will be taking pics here soon in a few days...
MY SHOP is about 11 miles from were I live..
so we go there and work from time to time together...
I will have to post some PICS.. from the start and then through out the BUILD>>>>
I know I am anxious to get going on it .. thats for sure.. lol
I am even thinking about 35" tires ....
say 35 tall 12.5 wide on 10 " wheels...
I ALREADY have 4 torgue thrust D wheels.. that would look aggressive. on some MIKEY THOMPSON tires.... lol.....

 

To keep it 4wd will limit you a bit. To keep the stock t-case it looks like the choices you have would be C4/5 or AOD.

Here is the link for James Duff's info with another AC box mod picture. http://www.jamesduff.com/broncoII/v8conversion.html

 

My approach was to save money over a V-6 rebuild. I was not wanting buckets of HP. Just a engine that would run and get me to Utah and back and over the trails. So my way of doing things may very a great deal from yours. I made frame brackets and had them welded in. For engine mounts I bought Early Bronco V-8 mounts. So locating the engine was a concern. I read some where about the drain plug being on top of the TTB bracket and requiring grinding to change the oil. As you can see in the pic's I was able to get my engine back far enough to clear the drain plug and you can see where the valve cover is in reference to my non AC heater box.

If you install a lift kit you won't have to worry about the drain plug.

 

... And if you go with an AOD, might as well get the 1345 t-case with one and save headaches, IMO. If I'm not mistaken, the full-size Bronco's and F-150s had AODs at one time with the 1345 t-case. I'm still trying to figure out why people make a V-8 swap so complicated, when it really isn't. I have chosen not to entertain the swap myself, just because it's pretty much unnecessary. I'll be going with a doubler after my axle swap as well as some other modifications. *shrug*

 

Will the 1345 fit between the frame rails of the BII? Please help out the un knowing with how we make this so hard and the easy way to put a v-8 in a BII. Pic's. I want to see your pic's of how you did this.

 

I see you focused on only one sentence in my previous post.

But anyhow... my only V-8 swap that I had anything to do with in an RBV was in an '83 Ranger that was 4 years old, blown engine, and we put Early Bronco axles in it and ditched the TTB front suspension altogether. Stuffing a 90-degree V-8 into a 60-degree V-6 engine bay is a little challenging and your options are body lift and/or modify the housings you've pictured, as well as the motor mount situation. This was before anyone made a custom oil pan or any of the parts you see nowadays. We used the original C-5 with a SBF C-4 bellhousing, and originally the 135x t-case from the truck... which didn't last very long -- I only remember this because I was driving when it grenaded in the mud. I forget 100% of the gory details... and I'll see if I can track down some pictures, as it wasn't my camera that took any. Heck, I don't even know if he still has that truck, as it was 20 years ago!

There is a little smattering of info on V-8 swaps here, though:

http://www.broncoii-ranger.com/forum...91a39b04be79b3

One thread in particular talks about using the AOD transmission and shows a picture of an NP 205 T-case and a BW 1356, which required some grinding of the frame rails. Not sure if the 1345 is the same size as the 1356 or the 1350/54.

 

That special oil pan was put in the Early Bronco 40 years ago. It is still the best one to use. And as I said I used those Early Bronco engine mounts and made my own brackets.

Thought I asked about the first sentence and if the 1345 would fit without frame modification. I'll add by asking how you would shift the 1345 and the AOD. And what year BII you would start with.

And I really do want to know how to uncomplicate a v-8 swap and I'm sure teammuir would also. Guess that was the second sentence I was asking about.

Now the other two sentences in that post were your point of view and everyone has a right to that. I even agree with most of it.

We really need to go and wheel together. Share a campfire, some sippin whiskey, and a cigar or 6. You going to wheel anywhere this summer? A friend of mine writes for an off road magazine and it looks like we'll be headed north in June. I have a trip planned to Colorado in August. It's posted at: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...orad-trip.html

 

Yeah, I'd like to get some 'wheeling in this summer... probably nowhere too far away from Virginia, although I'd like to Check out Uwharrie and Tellico, and a few other places on this coast. My 'wheeling is going to be strictly dependent on fundage and my work schedule (gotta love being active duty Navy and being onboard ship sometimes...). I would love to see Colorado (again)... haven't been there in over 20 years... went through there a couple of times as a kid when I lived in Texas

I'm still in the planning stages of my D44/9" swap, and still waiting on the 44 to be ready for pick-up as my project(s) are dependent on my buddy's '66 EB. As far as the 1345, if I had dimensions (well, if we all did), it'd be a matter of taking measurements. I would probably go with a floor shifter for both t-case and tranny. If I did a V-8 swap in a BII, well, if I did a carbureted V-8 swap in a BII, I would use an '84-'85 as it would be less red tape if I wanted to keep it street legal, otherwise, I'd use a fuel-injected 5.0 or a 302 with like the Edelbrock or Holley aftermarket fuel injection systems on it. The big thing with the V-8 swap is you want the same "type" of engine that you're pulling out (carbureted for carbureted, fuel injected for fuel injected), especially if you live in an emissions **** state like California or an inspection **** state like Virginia... this is if you plan on it not being a trailer queen and want to keep it daily driveable. I've also actually toyed with the idea of doing a Cummins 4BT or other diesel engine swap, but that would involve a lot of heavy cast iron parts and probably double my curb weight.... but it'd be fun! Hell, I've even thought of going seriously non-Ford on the powertrain and swapping in a Toyota 22R-E... especially with the gas prices the way they are! Anyhow... I wasn't trying to dog on ya, it's just that I know the resources and "V-8 swap made easy" parts are out there, moreso nowadays than they were in '87. Good luck to both of you on the swaps and hopefully you don't run into too many snags along the way!

 

If you know what your doing you dont have to go CARB for CARB
fuel injected to fuel injected.....
THis will be my 4th ENGINE swap of Diffrent fuel deliveries....
AND PROLLY more like 120 Engine Exchange.. lol....
I will let you in on a little of What I have done in the past....as far as Fuel delivery goes...
FORD... uses HIGH pressure fuel pumps in the tank..
and GENERAL MOTORS.. uses low pressure...
So take a S-10 fuel pump install in place of the FORD and use an Ajustable
FUEL REGULATOR... problem solved....
DONT NEED A FRIKEN MECHANICAL FUEL PUMP.. that I have seen on this forume ... Whine and say that they cant get ....
What ever.... lol
I want to put a STRAIGHT axle up frt......
so if someone knows of a KIT for that PLEASE lead me in the right direction... IF there is no KIT...
I WILL be FABERCATING my own....
HELL... I build RACE cars... I think I can Handle the install... but a KIT sure would make things alot QUICKER.. lol
YOU all have been great talking to.. PLEASE keep the INFO comming...
Ron

 

Happy Jack
you made the comment about if you use a lift kit you wont have to worry about the drain plug on the oil pan....
PLEASE explain.. cause a LIFT kit raises the chassi in relation to the ground ....
The motor does not change its realation the the FRAME?
???? Ron

 

The bracket that the drain plug is close to is replaced or moved down with a plate with most lift kits. Or removed all together with a SAS. So it is not as much of a problem with some lift kits or the SAS.

 

here is a "sas" that uses EB axles. note this is just a kit and not the axle. axle sold seperate.
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/c-384

scroll down to the bottom right of the page where the kit is listed for nearly $2k

 

There are a few overviews and write-ups on doing a SAS on a BII/Ranger. One site that has a little info is www.broncoii4x4.com (although, last time I poked through the site, a bunch of links on the page were messed up...). Another site is www.therangerstation.com, as well as info posted from broncoii-ranger.com earlier in this thread. Jeff's Bronco Graveyard, as franken pointed out, offers a kit, but it's over $2k, and you really don't need it, although, it makes the axle swap less painful. OH, and not all Rangers / BIIs use an in-tank HIGH-PRESSURE pump. My '87 has a low-pressure booster pump in the tank and the high-pressure pump is in-line between the in-tank pump and the engine / fuel rail. There are a couple of mods for fuel injection that help with fuel pressure issues, one being the adjustable fuel pressure regulator and the other is putting in-line (a) check valve(s) on the supply(and return) lines for the fuel tank -- the more concern being on the supply line than the return line. I'll have to poke around for the info on the fuel system mods, as I can't remember which forum or site I saw them on.

 

Stay away from the FMX trans nothing interchanges with it. And it weighs alot. Stay with the C5 trans and use a C4 valve body out of a 1967 and newer C4. You can use a 1965/66 C4 trans bellhousing on your trans. My 1984 Bronco II trans has the dip stick tube in the case. Thats the one you need, stay away from the one with the tube in the pan as they came out of F100/150 trucks and E100/150 vans and some cars. Its very tight in that area. You can use a regular converter in that trans you just don't have lock up. You can use any 289/302/5.0 you want just get the right flywheel with the correct balance. It needs to be a 10 1/2 inch flywheel. They are on ebay cheap all the time. L&l makes mounts for this swap as they also make headers. I have used a 94 Mustang 5.0 engine with all the brackets and pulleys because they they set back 1 1/2 closer to the engine than earlier 5.0's. The 1989/1994 T-Bird engine will also work as a complete unit. The only problem is the AC unit must be mounted up top with a fabed bracket. You do have to use a remote oil filter adapter. Buy the one L&l sells works the best. Good luck. Ron