I know much has been written about this and after reading how many people end up having to hammer and/or cut these off, I thought I'd re-post what others have posted and worked for me now on both my front and back rotors which were totally rusted onto the hubs of my 2001 F150 4x4.

On the front (Posted by "Glock"):
#5 11-10-2006, 01:54 AM
Glock
Junior User Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Clackamas, Oregon
Posts: 54

Buy a bolt about 2" long about the same diameter of the caliper mount hole. Put the bolt in the caliper mount hole with a nut on the backside and tighten bolt. Loosen rotate rotor 180 degrees and tighten it again and it will pop off. Just my rotors last month.

On the rear posted by ("Trucker22")
#4 07-26-2005, 08:56 PM
Trucker22
Senior User Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 198

rotor removal
Do a search - use trucker22 or search for rotor---you will find much advice---the bolt trick through the caliper support bracket works like a dream--no cutter or sledge needed in my 2000 with 65K on it in WI

On the back you can just thread the caliper mounting bolts into the threaded holes on the support (no nut required) until they meet the rotors, may require a spacer, it's been a while since I did the rear.

I think the constant, relentless pressure is what does it and eventually the rotor lets go, some heat may help speed the process too.

I only got one side done tonight as the rain and darkness chased me inside for the night.

My favorite post I've ever read on this forum regarding removal of stuck rotors even though the technique didn't work for me:
Phinxter
Senior User Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Saratoga, NY
Posts: 487
I do several brake jobs a day, what works for me and the guys I work with is use a 32 oz ball peen and give the rotor hat a few really good whacks between the studs then go around the back and beat the hell out of it, and I mean put your purse down and hit it! It might come apart in pieces but it works. Never needed a torch, and they use plenty salt up here brother!

 

Here's something I've done that works really well. It is best if you have the truck on jackstands with the wheels off, but it can be done on the ground if you loosen the wheels although I don't recommend that.

With the truck running on stands and the wheels off, hold the brake and shift the truck back and forth from drive to reverse a few times. If that doesn't do it you might need to give it a little gas. It's tricky to do with a 5 speed, but possible.

 

On the other (pass.) side which I didn't get to last night.
Cranked down the bolts hammered around on the rotor, heated it up, loosened the bolts, spun the rotor 180, tightened the bolts again and "pop" goes the rotor, music to my ears!
New pads and rotors installed and braking is nice and smooth and without the cutting metal smell, sweet!

 

We had to pound my rotors with a hammer to get them off because of all the rust. Penetrating oil helps too!

 

I heat up the rotor, hammer the hell out of the rotor hat and put a puller on it, pops right off, works everytime for me...

 

Any one know the size of the bolt. I know its 18mm socket to get it off. Great site with a lot of smart people. Thanks

 

Done, Nut and Bolt trick. A little persuation with a ball-pean. Great idea and worked like a charm. Many thanks.

 

Is this just for 4x4 or is it both? I just bought new rotors and wheel bearings and all that stuff for my 99 F150 2WD. I didn't realize it could get that rusty not to let the rotor go.

 

Mine is 4x4, I know the rotors are different on a 4x2, not sure if they are as hard to get off though...

 

2wd front rotors don't rust on because they come off with the hub. The rears are just like the 4wd in design, but may be sized differently.

 

Thanks I was just wondering that before I started on mine. I just had 4 new tires put on, and was just informed that I need 3 new ball joints and a outer tie-rod end. I'm glad I took a few days waited to put the rotors and all that on till I read this forum. I hate doing things twice.

 

Just did both front rotors on my 2003 4x4. Sprayed WD-40 on the back side of both and let them sit overnight. Both popped right off using the bolt-through-the-mounting-hole method.

 

The bolt through the caliper mount hole worked great. Would have been impossible otherwise without an air chisel. Being in Canada the rotors were stuck / seized big time but it still worked.

Thx all and for posting this, and I'll bump it up.


kw........

 

winston hav you read the balljoint replacement guide posted by the great racer guy?? check it out if your doing the job yourself.

 

After what i believe to Be 10 years on my 97 the caliper braket did not enjoy the Bolt pressure method. I ended up taking a Cut off wheel to the crown of the rotor. With one relief cut right on the corner they popped off w/ the help of the bolt pressure. If you watch for smoke at the lug holes you will know when you are through the rotor. This took a few minutes, and saved a lot of sweat. What really got me after cleaning the hub, and applying some anti seize I had to use lug nuts to keep the new rotor on while I replaced everything else.