Truck has 28,250 miles and intermittently looses power. The Check Engine Light never came on. Pulled the EGR valve and it was sooted up pretty bad, but not completely clogged. Cleaned EGR valve and reinstalled with new gaskets. Also pulled and cleaned IAT2 sensor.

Truck still looses power and hesitates when accelerating hard. Get gray and black smoke out tailpipe and turbo boost gauge readings are erratic. Unplugged EGR valve and problem hasn't returned.

3/36K warranty runs out tomorrow and local dealer is backlogged and cannot service for a week. I need the truck this weekend for some heavy towing (10K lbs.) I'm thinking about replacing the EGR valve myself since I'll end up paying the $100 on the deductible on the warranty anyway.

Should I replace the EGR and just leave it unplugged and take it to the dealer next week? Where's the best place to purchase a new EGR valve?

Thanks

 

Try talking to the service manager. He might be willing to give you some sort of extension being they are backed up. IMO, i'd pay the 100 bucks and let them replace the egr. I'm no expert but someone with more info will probably be by soon.

 

BUSTMUP,

If this is the 2004 SD in your profile and you only have 28K miles on it, I am thinking "Sticking Turbo Vanes", especially with the erratic boost readings. It is very common for the older style turbo vanes to become corroded/rusted from lack of use and prolonged sitting. There is a procedure to clean the turbo vanes, that may or may not work. If cleaning the turbo vanes does not fix the turbo then replacement of the turbo is called for. The updated turbos have been redesigned to provide more clearance for the blades to prevent sticking.

Also the latest flash from FMC causes the turbo vanes to be fully cycled at start up to help prevent the sticking vanes.

Hope this helps

 

Thanks for the replies...

Yes, it is a 2004, built in April and delived in May.

I had the turbo replaced a 19K miles (spring 2006). New turbo was suppose to be an upgraded turbo according to the Ford shop forman.

Since I unplugged the EGR and the problem disappeared, do you still think it could be the turbo?

Thanks again.

 

Since you just had the turbo replaced about a year ago, and you driven about 10K miles, turbo is probably not sticking, and it may just be your EGR sticking. It is not uncommon for the EGR to stick after cleaning, in which case replacement of the EGR if needed. May want to have the dealer check it out, and load the latest flash, as the EGR valve strategy was changed by FMC to help prevent some of these problems.

Also running a fuel additive such as DK or Stanadyne should help eliminate some of the coking issues on the EGR and it is also beneficial to the injectors.

Good luck

 

go to the dealer, and have them make a work order for the service using the current mileage at the time. Then tell them to call you when they can do the service. They will then have the documentation to repair your truck under the 3/36 warranty.

 

I had stalling/surging problems with mine also. umplugged the EGR problem solved...

 

Thanks for everyone's feedback. I stopped off at the dealer yesterday and the service writer opened a work order for me and I will drop the truck off Monday morning.

 

How do you unplug the EGR on a 05 model? I have had 2 replacements in 25,000 miles + a blown turbo replacement. How do I prevent this from reoccuring. I have used Stanadyne, Power UP-Gen49 and Fords product, but it did not keep the EGR clean. I tow a 11,500 loaded Prowler 5th wheel.

 

Simple, the default postion of the EGR valve with the engine Off is Closed. So with the engine turned off disconnect the electrical connector on the top of the EGR valve, and you are done. Your truck may throw a CEL with it disconnected, only way to remove the CEL if it is thrown is with a "Tuner" ie SCT XcalII.

Hope this helps

 

Mines' been perfectly happy without the EGR. No cel's or codes either. I have no intention of hooking it back up.