re-wiring entire truck, 1954 f-100, painless kit ?
#1
05-14-2007, 11:01 PM
re-wiring entire truck, 1954 f-100, painless kit ?
ok my stepdad has a nice old solid running 54 f-100 pickup, he wants to drive it again and soon, the wiring in it is the old original cloth wrapped and is horribly trashed condition, a real disaster condition-wise, all severely deteriorated and thats putting it lightly, lots of insulation missing from most wries, and bundled together and im sure billions of shorts,
the truck was "converted" to 12 volt some years ago, and i dont know how complete of a job was done or if it was evne completed at all, as far as guages and so on go, probably werent even touched im sure,
i need ot knwo what is the good kit to get for these, a painless, or an EZkit ?
from what i have sene so far by searching it sounds like the EZ21 or EZ18 ones are the slickest way to go in these trucks
this truck has an olds chool optional stock factory heater system, electric box unit on pass side under dash, out in the open bulky thing, ill have to take pics,
it has a 70s's 302 engine with old points type distributor in which needs ot be upgraded/converted ot electronic somehow,
and it has an old 70s style externally regulated alternator setup, in which also need sot be upgraded to internally regulated somehow
the battery location is still in the original pass side floor pan box,
and has new cables now of course
the starter foot ignition/solenoid switch was done away with long long ago, and now has a push button switch on the dash on the driver side of the column to crank the engine with,
and i dont know what ignition key switch it is but its some kind of(i presume ts a universal one) in the center of the dash towards the bottom of it and it needs replaced because the key got stolen or he lost it in storage
i should take pics of it and the deteriorated wires
with the new wiring kits what do you do about wiring connectors for the wiper system, lights, heater controls and unit, dash cluster, charging and ignition and so on ??>
they must make kits specifically for such and such year make and model ?? or what ? how does this work ?
what would be the best way to do away with the points ignition
can we swap it to later electronic box type igntion from the 70s or 80s ?
if so how do you do that ?
i know gm wiring but i dont know ford ignition wiring and such, its something ive never really messed with and no one seems to know anything about
i need to find out alot, much info, in order to figure out how ot plan this out, cuz i have no idea right now, i dont even yet know how the kits are designed and about stock connectors for everything ?
where can i read or see info on doing this on such a truck ?
and werent these truck 6 volt originally? pos or neg grounded ?
thanks for anything!
the truck was "converted" to 12 volt some years ago, and i dont know how complete of a job was done or if it was evne completed at all, as far as guages and so on go, probably werent even touched im sure,
i need ot knwo what is the good kit to get for these, a painless, or an EZkit ?
from what i have sene so far by searching it sounds like the EZ21 or EZ18 ones are the slickest way to go in these trucks
this truck has an olds chool optional stock factory heater system, electric box unit on pass side under dash, out in the open bulky thing, ill have to take pics,
it has a 70s's 302 engine with old points type distributor in which needs ot be upgraded/converted ot electronic somehow,
and it has an old 70s style externally regulated alternator setup, in which also need sot be upgraded to internally regulated somehow
the battery location is still in the original pass side floor pan box,
and has new cables now of course
the starter foot ignition/solenoid switch was done away with long long ago, and now has a push button switch on the dash on the driver side of the column to crank the engine with,
and i dont know what ignition key switch it is but its some kind of(i presume ts a universal one) in the center of the dash towards the bottom of it and it needs replaced because the key got stolen or he lost it in storage
i should take pics of it and the deteriorated wires
with the new wiring kits what do you do about wiring connectors for the wiper system, lights, heater controls and unit, dash cluster, charging and ignition and so on ??>
they must make kits specifically for such and such year make and model ?? or what ? how does this work ?
what would be the best way to do away with the points ignition
can we swap it to later electronic box type igntion from the 70s or 80s ?
if so how do you do that ?
i know gm wiring but i dont know ford ignition wiring and such, its something ive never really messed with and no one seems to know anything about
i need to find out alot, much info, in order to figure out how ot plan this out, cuz i have no idea right now, i dont even yet know how the kits are designed and about stock connectors for everything ?
where can i read or see info on doing this on such a truck ?
and werent these truck 6 volt originally? pos or neg grounded ?
thanks for anything!
Last edited by fast68; 05-14-2007 at 11:58 PM.
#2
05-15-2007, 12:04 AM
There are three ways to go:
1. a repro stock replacement harness. Identical to original, expensive for what you get, any wiring needed not on the original truck will have to be run as extras, with no instructions. 48-56 did not have a fuse panel originally, so you would not have any ready tie in points, I suspect this is the reason for the wiring messes in these trucks from PO.
2. Custom harness with all the extras included. VERY expensive! Must know exactly what accessories and additions you need prior to ordering, lead time may be weeks to months from order date. Easy to install. May or may not include a fuse panel for future expansion.
3. Universal harness kit sold by people like Painless, EZwire, and others. Expensive to economical depending on brand. Multi circuit fuse panel included with 6-21 circuits available. Routing and terminating the wires up to you. Wires color coded and purpose printed on the wire every 6" or so. Basic instructions included may need modificatins for your choice of accessories, May be overkill for near stock applications. Some common connectors prewired but may need cutting and splicing if they don't match your switches, column etc. All the extra wires included for all the circuits possible may intimidate some. Perfect for adding all the modern electric and electronic accessories.
IMHO Painless is very good except on the budget. High priced compared to lesser advertised brands. Many here, myself included, think that EZwire Mini 21 is the best value in a complete high quality kit for a quarter the Painless price.
1. a repro stock replacement harness. Identical to original, expensive for what you get, any wiring needed not on the original truck will have to be run as extras, with no instructions. 48-56 did not have a fuse panel originally, so you would not have any ready tie in points, I suspect this is the reason for the wiring messes in these trucks from PO.
2. Custom harness with all the extras included. VERY expensive! Must know exactly what accessories and additions you need prior to ordering, lead time may be weeks to months from order date. Easy to install. May or may not include a fuse panel for future expansion.
3. Universal harness kit sold by people like Painless, EZwire, and others. Expensive to economical depending on brand. Multi circuit fuse panel included with 6-21 circuits available. Routing and terminating the wires up to you. Wires color coded and purpose printed on the wire every 6" or so. Basic instructions included may need modificatins for your choice of accessories, May be overkill for near stock applications. Some common connectors prewired but may need cutting and splicing if they don't match your switches, column etc. All the extra wires included for all the circuits possible may intimidate some. Perfect for adding all the modern electric and electronic accessories.
IMHO Painless is very good except on the budget. High priced compared to lesser advertised brands. Many here, myself included, think that EZwire Mini 21 is the best value in a complete high quality kit for a quarter the Painless price.
#3
05-15-2007, 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by fast68
it has an old 70s style externally regulated alternator setup, in which also need sot be upgraded to internally regulated somehow
with the new wiring kits what do you do about wiring connectors for the wiper system, lights, heater controls and unit, dash cluster??
what would be the best way to do away with the points ignition
can we swap it to later electronic box type igntion from the 70s or 80s ?
and werent these truck 6 volt originally? pos or neg grounded ?
thanks for anything!
with the new wiring kits what do you do about wiring connectors for the wiper system, lights, heater controls and unit, dash cluster??
what would be the best way to do away with the points ignition
can we swap it to later electronic box type igntion from the 70s or 80s ?
and werent these truck 6 volt originally? pos or neg grounded ?
thanks for anything!
Any new wiring harness will have provisions for wiring the wiper, lights, heater, and dash lights. This truck was originally 6 volt positive ground so the heater motor and electric wiper will have to be either converted to 12V or use a voltage reducer. You can run a 6V heater on 12V if you use the low setting only. I did that for years. Otherwise, you need a 12V heater motor. There are aftermarket 12V electric wiper conversions available for your truck also.
The easiest way to convert the distributor to electronic ignition is to get a Petronix conversion kit.
#4
05-15-2007, 09:52 AM
You've got great advice so far. Its fairly easy to upgrade to electronic ignition on your truck. Basically you will need a distributor, ignition module, and coil from a donor truck. Any distributor from a small block Ford will fit but the 351Windsor has a different sized oil pump drive (its a 5/16" hex, the 289 and 302 have a 1/4" hex). The whole thing is easy to wire up and schematics are readily available. I have one somewhere and if you need it I can probably get it scanned in and sent to you (it might take me a few days or so and you'll probably have to remind me...just let me know).
As far as the charging system goes....as long is its working then leave it alone unless you just want to clean things up under the hood.
Typically the universal harnesses use GM color coding and steering column connectors. Some of them can be ordered with the steering column connector of your choice. I used the EZ Wiring 21 circuit harness in my 49 and found the install to be fairly easy. I do, however have a GM engine and steering column.
Here is a link to a great write up on the install of an EZ Wiring harness as well as several other electrical upgrades;
http://www.alanhorvath.com/54chevy/ezwire_day1.php
Yes, the link is to an article on a 54 Chevy...don't shoot me....the article has fantastic information and the guy does great work. Its a good read
Good luck
Bobby
As far as the charging system goes....as long is its working then leave it alone unless you just want to clean things up under the hood.
Typically the universal harnesses use GM color coding and steering column connectors. Some of them can be ordered with the steering column connector of your choice. I used the EZ Wiring 21 circuit harness in my 49 and found the install to be fairly easy. I do, however have a GM engine and steering column.
Here is a link to a great write up on the install of an EZ Wiring harness as well as several other electrical upgrades;
http://www.alanhorvath.com/54chevy/ezwire_day1.php
Yes, the link is to an article on a 54 Chevy...don't shoot me....the article has fantastic information and the guy does great work. Its a good read
Good luck
Bobby
#5
05-15-2007, 10:49 AM
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A couple of comments.
I thought the EZ21 was fairly straightforward, lots of guys on here have put them in and can help with little specifics.
I don't think your truck ever had a starter pedal in '54. They came stock with a button over by the driver's door on the dash.
Stock ignition key is near the middle of the truck in the dash. You can buy stock ones to put in that hole, or if yours is stock it's pretty cheap to put a new cylinder/key in it. You can buy matched door cylinders and ignition cylinders.
They were originally 6V positive ground, I think, in '54, but not sure about that. '53 was. As far as the gauges, you can either put in a Constant Voltage Regulator (CVR) which Ford used for years. This give 6-8V to all the gauges. You can go with Runtz, which are little solid state doodads which regulate the voltage individually to each of the gauges. A little more exacting, but more expensive at $15 per gauge.
That charging system should work fine.
There aren't pre-wired plug-ins in this old truck. Each of the connections is basically a screw/spade/ring affair.
I thought the EZ21 was fairly straightforward, lots of guys on here have put them in and can help with little specifics.
I don't think your truck ever had a starter pedal in '54. They came stock with a button over by the driver's door on the dash.
Stock ignition key is near the middle of the truck in the dash. You can buy stock ones to put in that hole, or if yours is stock it's pretty cheap to put a new cylinder/key in it. You can buy matched door cylinders and ignition cylinders.
They were originally 6V positive ground, I think, in '54, but not sure about that. '53 was. As far as the gauges, you can either put in a Constant Voltage Regulator (CVR) which Ford used for years. This give 6-8V to all the gauges. You can go with Runtz, which are little solid state doodads which regulate the voltage individually to each of the gauges. A little more exacting, but more expensive at $15 per gauge.
That charging system should work fine.
There aren't pre-wired plug-ins in this old truck. Each of the connections is basically a screw/spade/ring affair.
#6
05-15-2007, 10:56 AM
One thing that is nice about our old trucks is the fact that there is not much to rewiring them. I simply went to my neighborhood electrical supply house and purchased wiring in various gauges. I made my own wiring, routed it the way I wanted it, etc. I started from the front and worked my way back to the taillights. It was very simple!
If you want to go with the original cloth type wiring, Ron Francis wiring has an excellent kit for originality.
As for the ignition, I got rid of my points long ago. I swear by Pertronix ignitions. Two wires and you still retain the stock parts.
If you want to go with the original cloth type wiring, Ron Francis wiring has an excellent kit for originality.
As for the ignition, I got rid of my points long ago. I swear by Pertronix ignitions. Two wires and you still retain the stock parts.
#7
05-15-2007, 03:18 PM
Originally Posted by fast68
ok my stepdad has a nice old solid running 54 f-100 pickup, he wants to drive it again and soon, the wiring in it is the old original cloth wrapped and is horribly trashed condition, a real disaster condition-wise, all severely deteriorated and thats putting it lightly, lots of insulation missing from most wries, and bundled together and im sure billions of shorts,
the truck was "converted" to 12 volt some years ago, and i dont know how complete of a job was done or if it was evne completed at all, as far as guages and so on go, probably werent even touched im sure,
i need ot knwo what is the good kit to get for these, a painless, or an EZkit ?
from what i have sene so far by searching it sounds like the EZ21 or EZ18 ones are the slickest way to go in these trucks
this truck has an olds chool optional stock factory heater system, electric box unit on pass side under dash, out in the open bulky thing, ill have to take pics,
it has a 70s's 302 engine with old points type distributor in which needs ot be upgraded/converted ot electronic somehow,
and it has an old 70s style externally regulated alternator setup, in which also need sot be upgraded to internally regulated somehow
the battery location is still in the original pass side floor pan box,
and has new cables now of course
the starter foot ignition/solenoid switch was done away with long long ago, and now has a push button switch on the dash on the driver side of the column to crank the engine with,
and i dont know what ignition key switch it is but its some kind of(i presume ts a universal one) in the center of the dash towards the bottom of it and it needs replaced because the key got stolen or he lost it in storage
i should take pics of it and the deteriorated wires
with the new wiring kits what do you do about wiring connectors for the wiper system, lights, heater controls and unit, dash cluster, charging and ignition and so on ??>
they must make kits specifically for such and such year make and model ?? or what ? how does this work ?
what would be the best way to do away with the points ignition
can we swap it to later electronic box type igntion from the 70s or 80s ?
if so how do you do that ?
i know gm wiring but i dont know ford ignition wiring and such, its something ive never really messed with and no one seems to know anything about
i need to find out alot, much info, in order to figure out how ot plan this out, cuz i have no idea right now, i dont even yet know how the kits are designed and about stock connectors for everything ?
where can i read or see info on doing this on such a truck ?
and werent these truck 6 volt originally? pos or neg grounded ?
thanks for anything!
the truck was "converted" to 12 volt some years ago, and i dont know how complete of a job was done or if it was evne completed at all, as far as guages and so on go, probably werent even touched im sure,
i need ot knwo what is the good kit to get for these, a painless, or an EZkit ?
from what i have sene so far by searching it sounds like the EZ21 or EZ18 ones are the slickest way to go in these trucks
this truck has an olds chool optional stock factory heater system, electric box unit on pass side under dash, out in the open bulky thing, ill have to take pics,
it has a 70s's 302 engine with old points type distributor in which needs ot be upgraded/converted ot electronic somehow,
and it has an old 70s style externally regulated alternator setup, in which also need sot be upgraded to internally regulated somehow
the battery location is still in the original pass side floor pan box,
and has new cables now of course
the starter foot ignition/solenoid switch was done away with long long ago, and now has a push button switch on the dash on the driver side of the column to crank the engine with,
and i dont know what ignition key switch it is but its some kind of(i presume ts a universal one) in the center of the dash towards the bottom of it and it needs replaced because the key got stolen or he lost it in storage
i should take pics of it and the deteriorated wires
with the new wiring kits what do you do about wiring connectors for the wiper system, lights, heater controls and unit, dash cluster, charging and ignition and so on ??>
they must make kits specifically for such and such year make and model ?? or what ? how does this work ?
what would be the best way to do away with the points ignition
can we swap it to later electronic box type igntion from the 70s or 80s ?
if so how do you do that ?
i know gm wiring but i dont know ford ignition wiring and such, its something ive never really messed with and no one seems to know anything about
i need to find out alot, much info, in order to figure out how ot plan this out, cuz i have no idea right now, i dont even yet know how the kits are designed and about stock connectors for everything ?
where can i read or see info on doing this on such a truck ?
and werent these truck 6 volt originally? pos or neg grounded ?
thanks for anything!
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#9
05-15-2007, 07:49 PM
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I have a 1954 F250 and am using a Painless wiring kit. I have it 90% done and it went pretty easy. The wires are all color coded and labeled which helps a lot in routing them. I bought the wiring kit at Advance Auto Parts, and they had a much better price than anywhere else that I checked. Don't buy the "truck" kit. All it has different is longer wires and you don't need them. There is a huge price difference for the "truck" kit.
Take your time in bundling and routing the wires. Once you get started, it is a pain to go back and make changes.
Even when you buy a kit, you still need to plan how you want your wiring to be and what is needed to convert to 12V.
Hopefully in a week or two, I will know if my wiring and engine re-build were a success or not.
Buy a good kit, do some planning, and enjoy standing on your head wiring under the dash board.
Take your time in bundling and routing the wires. Once you get started, it is a pain to go back and make changes.
Even when you buy a kit, you still need to plan how you want your wiring to be and what is needed to convert to 12V.
Hopefully in a week or two, I will know if my wiring and engine re-build were a success or not.
Buy a good kit, do some planning, and enjoy standing on your head wiring under the dash board.
#10
05-15-2007, 08:32 PM
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#12
05-17-2007, 02:54 PM
Originally Posted by imlowr2
Nice distributors but a bit pricey!
We aren't cheap, but it is a good value-Just like your motto says:
If your not going to do it right the first time, don't do it at all.
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