View Poll Results: What should I do?
Rebuild the 302
14
46.67%
Swap in the 300
16
53.33%
Voters: 30. You may not vote on this poll
Vote! 1984 F150 4x4--Swapping 302 for 300
#1
Vote! 1984 F150 4x4--Swapping 302 for 300
1984 Ford F150 XL 5.0L C6 Regular Cab SWB 4WD
I got this truck cheap here locally, as the previous owner did a VERY poor job rebuilding the 302 that's in this truck. He didn't degree the cam, and the timing on the whole motor is way off. It's absolutely pitiful...
So, I'm at a crossroads--
I could pull this 302 and re-rebuild it, slap on a 4bbl and corresponding intake, and maybe a "hoppier" cam-- OR, take the good 'ol, reliable, sweet-runnin, stump-pullin, 19-20mpg 300-6 from the 1985 F150 that I'm driving now, and swap it for the 302.
But, exactly how much trouble is this? The '85 F150 has a 4 speed instead of an automatic, so I'll have to find a flexplate to begin with. Then, do I have to change crossmembers? If so, I don't know if it's worth it or not, since I'll be willing to bet that the driveshafts have to be shortened. I say that because it looks as if the 300 sits a little farther back than the 302.
By the way-- I mostly just drive this 'ol truck around. I pull my 801 PowerMaster and bushhog or disc around every now and then, but it's nothing that the 300 can't handle.
What do ya'll think, though?
Suggestions, opinions, comments, etc., please.
Nightrain
I got this truck cheap here locally, as the previous owner did a VERY poor job rebuilding the 302 that's in this truck. He didn't degree the cam, and the timing on the whole motor is way off. It's absolutely pitiful...
So, I'm at a crossroads--
I could pull this 302 and re-rebuild it, slap on a 4bbl and corresponding intake, and maybe a "hoppier" cam-- OR, take the good 'ol, reliable, sweet-runnin, stump-pullin, 19-20mpg 300-6 from the 1985 F150 that I'm driving now, and swap it for the 302.
But, exactly how much trouble is this? The '85 F150 has a 4 speed instead of an automatic, so I'll have to find a flexplate to begin with. Then, do I have to change crossmembers? If so, I don't know if it's worth it or not, since I'll be willing to bet that the driveshafts have to be shortened. I say that because it looks as if the 300 sits a little farther back than the 302.
By the way-- I mostly just drive this 'ol truck around. I pull my 801 PowerMaster and bushhog or disc around every now and then, but it's nothing that the 300 can't handle.
What do ya'll think, though?
Suggestions, opinions, comments, etc., please.
Nightrain
#2
The 300 does sit a little farther back so you will need the motor mounts it came with. Thats pretty much it, the transmission stays in the same place.
The problem you will run into is the electronics. If it is like one I did recently, the 85 will have about 300 more wires going every which way than the 84 does. The wiring is easy putting an 84 engine into an 85 chassis, you plug in a small harness that runs the duraspark and guages and abandon the rest of the wires. It gets tougher putting the 85 engine into an 84 hole. Hopefully your pickups will match in the wiring department and it won't be a problem.
The problem you will run into is the electronics. If it is like one I did recently, the 85 will have about 300 more wires going every which way than the 84 does. The wiring is easy putting an 84 engine into an 85 chassis, you plug in a small harness that runs the duraspark and guages and abandon the rest of the wires. It gets tougher putting the 85 engine into an 84 hole. Hopefully your pickups will match in the wiring department and it won't be a problem.
#3
You have to grind the motor mount perches off the six cylinder frame and the v8 frame, and swap them out and bolt them back in. It would be easier to just fix the 302.
By the way, you do not have to degree a cam for the engine to run correctly. Degreeing a cam is like "blueprinting" the engine. Slap it in with a factory timing chain, and it will run ok. If you want that last little bit of power like the racers do, then you can degree the cam. All you are doing by degreeing is taking into account the factory tolerances when they built the engine, which they determined were ok for a new engine built off the assembly line to run fine for many years.
By the way, you do not have to degree a cam for the engine to run correctly. Degreeing a cam is like "blueprinting" the engine. Slap it in with a factory timing chain, and it will run ok. If you want that last little bit of power like the racers do, then you can degree the cam. All you are doing by degreeing is taking into account the factory tolerances when they built the engine, which they determined were ok for a new engine built off the assembly line to run fine for many years.
#4
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#8
#9
I've still got it, but I've yet to spray the paint on it. I took it out of my signature to make room for the other stuff. lol.
I was really going good on it there for awhile, and then when work picked up and other things started to take place (especially the winter weather), I wasn't able to finish in the steel roll pan and spray on the paint. Hopefully within the next couple of months or so, it'll be done-- hopefully.
BTW... What's the factory (estimated) horsepower of a bone-stock (say 2v) 351?
Nightrain
I was really going good on it there for awhile, and then when work picked up and other things started to take place (especially the winter weather), I wasn't able to finish in the steel roll pan and spray on the paint. Hopefully within the next couple of months or so, it'll be done-- hopefully.
BTW... What's the factory (estimated) horsepower of a bone-stock (say 2v) 351?
Nightrain
#11
#12
#14
Welp, it seems I'm back to square-one again.
I went to the DMV yesterday to get new tags for my truck. I explained to them how I didn't have a title for the 1984 F150 4x4 that I bought off a guy at work with no title. I finally decided that the body and all is too good to just scrap, and plus it's a 4x4 and everything works perfectly, except for the 302.
Anywho, they said that getting a title shouldn't be that big of a problem (this was a big suprise), only that it takes up to 6-8 weeks. I got the paperwork, filled it out, and took it back today. Maybe, just maybe, I'll get a title for this truck afterall and I'll be set.
After pondering with this idea over and over again and digging this thread back up, I think I've decided to swap in my 300, if I do indeed get the title.
I know that there is going to be some fabrication in order, but all in all, I think it will be worth it. To rebuild the 302, I'd be out at least $500. I've got a perfectly good-running 300 sitting outside in my daily driver rig that doesn't use a drop of oil and gets pretty good fuel mileage.
So, to wrap this all up, basically what I need to do is pull the 302 from the 1984, grind the mount perches off the frame, pull the 300 from the 1985, grind the 6 cylinder perches off of that frame, then bolt the 300 perches onto the frame of the 1984 F150? Will I be able to bolt them or will they have to be welded?
Other than that, it's just a straight-forward swap, correct? The 1985 being a 2WD and the 1984 being a 4WD isn't going to make a hill of beans of difference, is it?
The 1985 300 that I have has the computer-controlled carb and ignition, and I believe the 1984 is already wired for the Duraspark system. I'm swapping the 300 over to a 4bbl and EFI manifolds and the Duraspark system while I'm doing the swap, so the wiring should be fairly straight-foward that way, shouldn't it?
Thanks for any and all suggestions and letting me continue to bug the crap out of ya'll with all of this!!
Nightrain
I went to the DMV yesterday to get new tags for my truck. I explained to them how I didn't have a title for the 1984 F150 4x4 that I bought off a guy at work with no title. I finally decided that the body and all is too good to just scrap, and plus it's a 4x4 and everything works perfectly, except for the 302.
Anywho, they said that getting a title shouldn't be that big of a problem (this was a big suprise), only that it takes up to 6-8 weeks. I got the paperwork, filled it out, and took it back today. Maybe, just maybe, I'll get a title for this truck afterall and I'll be set.
After pondering with this idea over and over again and digging this thread back up, I think I've decided to swap in my 300, if I do indeed get the title.
I know that there is going to be some fabrication in order, but all in all, I think it will be worth it. To rebuild the 302, I'd be out at least $500. I've got a perfectly good-running 300 sitting outside in my daily driver rig that doesn't use a drop of oil and gets pretty good fuel mileage.
So, to wrap this all up, basically what I need to do is pull the 302 from the 1984, grind the mount perches off the frame, pull the 300 from the 1985, grind the 6 cylinder perches off of that frame, then bolt the 300 perches onto the frame of the 1984 F150? Will I be able to bolt them or will they have to be welded?
Other than that, it's just a straight-forward swap, correct? The 1985 being a 2WD and the 1984 being a 4WD isn't going to make a hill of beans of difference, is it?
The 1985 300 that I have has the computer-controlled carb and ignition, and I believe the 1984 is already wired for the Duraspark system. I'm swapping the 300 over to a 4bbl and EFI manifolds and the Duraspark system while I'm doing the swap, so the wiring should be fairly straight-foward that way, shouldn't it?
Thanks for any and all suggestions and letting me continue to bug the crap out of ya'll with all of this!!
Nightrain
Last edited by Nightrain; 08-16-2007 at 10:57 PM.
#15