My generator light is constantly on I Put a new voltage regulator on and it's still on. After I remove one of the battery cables the engine dies. I put a used one on last year and it worked for about a month so now I have two bad generators that need rebuilding anyone know if they sell kits?


thx
Dave

 

hmmm?
check that your field wire is energized @ the gen, was havin trouble with mine on my tractor last winter changed & re built everything, worked a couple times then had to be gone over again, finally got fed up and stuck a delco internally regulated alternator on never a lick of trouble since, also running one on my 58 merc panel and the day the gen. gives grief on my econo it'll be gettin one too.
mikie
near ottawa canada
58 merc panel 64 econo..........and 69 massey ferguson 3165 tractor (heh heh)

 

Most starter and alternator shops can convert it. Thats what I did at a local shop. I had both converted and rebuilt for $200.00 or so.

 

Kill two birds with one stone...sell the bad gennies and reg's to a collector who likes to spend all his spare time repairing them , and buy an alternator conversion with a built-in regulator. Then move on to something fun!

 

AMEN! Junk the dinosaur charging system...

 

sounds like a plan where can I get me one of these conversion alts?

 

Certified Electric and others sell the "slingshots" and alternators on eBay and at their site.

 

all i'm finding on Ebay is 6v to 12v conversion kits for Ford tractors.

 

Wrong year, but same company:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...QQcmdZViewItem

 

Did you polarize the regulator when you changed it? Generators are rather sturdy beasts that seldom fail except from wear to the bearings, commutator, or brushes. We would "rebuild" them all the time at the service station: replace the bushings, cut the commutator put in new brushes, a coat of rattle can paint and put it in a box for the next guy. 50.00 profit for 1/2 hr work (in the days of 1.10/hr wages). Only rarely did one have a shorted armature or field windings, usually caused by a faulty regulator. There is a quick way to check your generator is by "motoring" it. A generator is just an electric motor in reverse, so disconnect the wiring and belt, or put it on the floor and hold it down with your foot. hook up a set of jumper cables to the battery, touch the neg to the case in a spot with no paint, the pos to the output terminal. If the generator spins merrily away like an electric motor it is fine! If it sits there and hums or runs in spits and spurts it is shorted out. If it makes "unhappy" noises it likely has a bad bearing. A generator will not produce enough current at idle to keep the engine running if you disconnect the battery so that is not a legitimate test. A bad regulator will fry generator after generator, so we never changed a generator without replacing the regulator at the same time. A new generator or regulator needs to be polarized after replacement to start charging.

 

thanks I will give this a try how do you polarize the gen and reg?

 

It's been too long since I did one so I didn't want to post something wrong. I'm sure someone will be along in a minute with the correct info, if not I will look it up for you. It's real easy involves diconnecting one of the wires on the regulator and momentarily shorting it to one of the other terminals, I just don't remember which ones.

 

Here is the procedure that has been outlined by our very own mtflat;

Polarizing a Ford Generator

I can outline the procedure for polarizing the thing. With the engine off, at the regulator, remove the field (F) wire and briefly touch it to the batt (B) connection. You should see a small bluish spark. Re-connect the field wire and you're done. This is per the shop manual.

Do not use a jumper wire - you can cause damage.


Bobby

 

That's the procedure!

 

awesome I have the shop manual so i'll look it up. Thanks alot this forum is a great help. :thumbsup: