Kevin, in my other post I said how to test a coil. You just need an digital ohmmeter and if you don't have one, you can get them for cheap.

 

I assume with your makeshift wiring you have not hooked up the charging system yet. I'd vote that you are pulling the battery down enough to starve the coil since the battery is low after it happens. Wait until you finish your rewiring before chasing this one it may disappear.

 

Good point Chuck, I am reading up on wiring install later today. I will put seats in tonight and then start wiring tomorrow. I hope to have it completed by Saturday evening. We'll see how it goes. I have two tail lights, to rear turn signals, two front turn signals, two headlights, parking lights, headlight switch, ignition switch, coil, heater wires. Did I miss anything, push button start switch

 

windshield wipers (if not vaccuum). Ammeter, gauge lights (gaugelights are always wired in series with the taillights so if your taillights go out so does your instrument panel lights to warn you.)
I would suggest leaving the seat out while wiring, makes it much more pleasant to work under dash.

 

I agee with AX, working under the dash is better, though not really "pleasant" with the seats out. Ax did not point out that the panels (over regular cabs) have an advantage in this area-you get to stretch your legs out!

Kevin, I think you need a panel in your fleet!

 

This is good instruction from everyone--Kevin---Get that truck wired up first!!!The seat is not as necessary yet. You have wired up houses and this should be your forte! Come on dude and get some permanent juice to that flathead!!!Like Ax and the rest said your problem may go away!!
Do not forget---The cable wrap for the wrecker bed and the electric convertor box for your winch is at my barn. I think you will need these.Call me!---

 

That's why us OFs buy panels!
I also lay down the rubber mat tiles that look like giant puzzle pieces to kneel and lay on. My knees and back thank me in the AMs.

 

Oh yah Kevin don't forget to run wiring for any power you may need for the wrecker portion and you may want to wire in a 7 pin trailer connector before mounting the wrecker bed in case you want to pull a trailer (for parades and friends without tow vehicles ) or even for a towed vehicle temporary light bar should you want to use your wrecker to pick up other project vehicles.

 

Along those same lines you might consider wiring in some of those heavy duty jump start lugs as well. A set up towards the grill and another set back on the tow body somewhere.

What the heck, while you're doing it you might as well overdo it!

Bobby

 

FI or not? What model truck is it? Does it just staight up die with no warning, or does it start buckin' and jumpin' first?


hit me back.
chris

 

It's a totally stock 51 F3 (or is it a F6?, anyway a big boy) with a rebuilt stock I-6.

 

Hey... that depends on what you've modified, and **** like that. Some tanks aren't vented at all. Mine aren't. Did you check your fuel filter?

 

I have a supposedly vented gas cap. How do you tell? It does not buck or jump just stalls out. I am going to wire it and go from there. I will wait on the seat and bracket for the seats until done wiring. Where should I mount the fuse box?

 

I made a mounting plate for mine. On the back there are two "studs" with slots in the sides, and a tab sticking out from the top. I used a piece of sheet metal the thickness of the slots for the plate. Make it long enough to include the top tab. Drill two holes to match the stud locations. Note they are not in a line. Then drill another hole the width of the space between the slots in the studs, just below the first holes. Connect the two holes with a file to make them into two keyhole slots. Put the studs thru the large holes and slide the box down to the bottom of the keyholes. Mark the top tab location, drill and shape a square hole for the tab to lock into. Now you can mount the plate wherever you'd like (I'm not familiar with the underside of your dash) usually somewhere on the driver's side. If you mount it on a solid surface be sure to space it out to clear the studs. You can now do all your wiring with the fuse box out from under the dash, then when finished just slide it into the mount. If you need to check a fuse or add more wiring just lift the top locking tab and slide the fusebox up and out of the mount, and pull it out from under the dash. Much easier than fishing up under the dash or unbolting things to work on them!

 

On my 49 I mounted mine to the left of the steering column. I'm not stock under the dash though, I had made my own hanging pedal assy and I fabricated a bracket that bolts to the pedal assy for my fuse block (I didn't want to poke holes in the firewall after I had spent so much time filling all of the holes....lol)

I've seen some cars and trucks with the fuse block and relay panel mounted under the seat. This usually works our real good in a vehicle where you can tilt the seat bottom up or remove it easily for access.

Bobby