OK, so I've had this nagging oil leak for a long time that I FINALLY decided to fix. It was the HPOP's rear plug.
Without removing anything else, I was able to get a socket and ratchet down in there to remove the plug. The o-ring was, indeed, toast, and there was some evidence of hardened sealant on the threads.
Of course, I didn't know beforehand what size o-ring it uses, but figured I could find one in my stock that would "be close". I did. A little smaller and a little fatter, but when stretched over the plug, it worked fine. Oh, did I mention it was buna (not -N) and used for water, and I used no other sealant at all? I knew it was only a shot-in-the-dark, but it fixed the leak.
So I order an o-ring kit from ebay seller "cluxie" (hmmmm, do we know him here) on that same Saturday, with the hopes that it would transit from Idaho to SoCal within a week. Got an email that it went into Monday's Idaho outgoing.
I HAD to have the truck on the road the following Sunday morning, so I was getting antsy when the rings still weren't here on Thursday when the leak RETURNED (what did I expect...), this time with some extra flow. I drove to my local plumbing house and got the correct-sized o-ring (once again just buna, not -N) just in case, and got it back to the driveway and put a drain pan under it and pulled the plug again. I let it all drain out until Saturday afternoon, so it was no longer flowing at all. That evening's mail comes. Nothing. Uggghhhhhh! Gee, why didn't I just assume that the USPS would fail me?
So, I used brake cleaner and a whole bunch of Q-tips to VERY carefully clean ALL the oil residue out of the HPOP's threaded hole and the plug. Then I put on the correct sized (but wrong material and hardness) o-ring on the plug and used Loctite "242". That was all I had in the shop that is "removable", and I figured I'd be doing this job yet again sometime soon, so didn't want to use the more permanent stuff.
Let it set up until Sunday morning, when I filled the HPOP reservoir, and got on the road with a couple of gallons of reserve behind the back seat.
That was a month ago, and everything's still dry.
Yes, the o-rings arrived that Monday afternoon, and they're in the center console, awaiting that day...
I suspect that this fix could be done without an o-ring at all, as the Loctite is what's probably doing the job, all on it's own.
It isn't leaking, and if it doesn't start again, I ainna' gonna' do it over. And if it does, I'll let you all know. At least now I have the parts ahead of time. ;-))
That's a great write up Pop.
Keep a good eye on that repair as I have found through experience that an o ring that is pulled tight in the groove will break.
They have to be in a relaxed state while sitting in the groove to last.
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Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, Titan 520's, CCV, EGR, CAT.
2000 VW Passat 1.8t Tiptronic. ZZOOOOOMMMM!!!
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice.
You cannot explain or explain away the power of God.
I was told at the dealership that is was not servicable.
It is the only o-ring that does not come in the ring kit from Ford.
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2001 F350, 4x4 off road, 7.3, DP Tunes 40,60,80, Turbonetics Turbo, Auto w/6.0 cooler, CC, LB, 3.73's, Royal Purple in all but the engine, 285 BFG AT's, Curtis pop-hitch, 6637, Zoo-Dad, stock downpipe then 4" Magnaflow (free), Auotmeter cubby mount gauges, CB, Sirrius, Bilstein HD shocks.
This o-ring is the correct size, and is, indeed, relaxed when in the plug's groove. But I don't believe it has a THING to do with sealing this hole. I'm reasonably certain that it's the Loctite doing ALL the job. But, those threads, both male and female, gotta' be SPOTLESSLY clean and oil-free for the Loctite to work the way it's designed to.
For anyone interested, these o-rings are AS568A-906's, available from Grainger for under $3 for 25 of 'em. Loctite is extra. ;-))
The one I was speaking of is the one that is in the lowere left of the pic. with no marking.
There is a piston behind the plug if I remeber correctly.
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2001 F350, 4x4 off road, 7.3, DP Tunes 40,60,80, Turbonetics Turbo, Auto w/6.0 cooler, CC, LB, 3.73's, Royal Purple in all but the engine, 285 BFG AT's, Curtis pop-hitch, 6637, Zoo-Dad, stock downpipe then 4" Magnaflow (free), Auotmeter cubby mount gauges, CB, Sirrius, Bilstein HD shocks.
NOTHING on the HPOP is non repairable. They rebuild 'em all the time!
What do they do if it starts to leak there??? Throw it away?
I don't know what it takes to fix that but it may require disassembly and repair from the inside out.
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Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, Titan 520's, CCV, EGR, CAT.
2000 VW Passat 1.8t Tiptronic. ZZOOOOOMMMM!!!
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice.
You cannot explain or explain away the power of God.
Given the helpfulness of the folks we have here on this forum, when someone springs a leak at that plug, and looks into it "in depth" to fix it, they'll write it up and let us all know.
Then, another page in this extremely accurate maintenance manual called "FTE", will be completed.
Was this a leak that was constant, or was it leaking only when driving? The reason I ask is, just lately, I have what looks to be blowby along both sides of the truck. Very, very fine droplets of black oil that seem a bit heaver along the drivers side, yet I can find no drops of oil under the truck when parked.
I've been trying to locate the leak, but so far???
I had the exact same leak, and I used on of the o-rings that came with the kit to replace the 2 on the side of the hpop. I put a lil locktite on it and seems to beholding up. That was about a year and a half ago.
when the hpop was made they milled a little to much materal out of the holes when it was machined .ya know the tolerance was wrong ...so the only long term fix is to replace the pump..navastar sells a repair that usually works kit pn# 1842906c92..good luck all......
when the hpop was made they milled a little to much materal out of the holes when it was machined .ya know the tolerance was wrong ...so the only long term fix is to replace the pump..navastar sells a repair that usually works kit pn# 1842906c92..good luck all......
welcome to FTE...that is a IH part# and this has been coverd..the kit is for a diff. pump ..it has parts that do not get used on our pump...but the one part we need works great... http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/65...your-hpop.html
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Early 99 7.3 F350 auto,TN T-4 mount with a s467 for air,SRP 1.1 for oil,H-11 stud's,"NEW" alliant 315/200 hybrids, all supplied by unlimited diesel..shimmed 910's, DI push rod's, full fuel with a fuel lab 4202,TSD sump...tuned by Gearhead..i cant wait to drop her in the truck... http://inlinethumb43.webshots.com/50...200x200Q85.jpg
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