The cost of the tool starts to look real cheap when you compare that to the cost of removing the heads. Look at all the COP, EGR and Lean Code DTCs these Ford trucks seem to develop soon after the warranty expires. Look at how Ford uses plastic planetary gears in their power window motors. These things can't all be coincidental. I suspect they know these those things have a certain life and will need replacement when the warranty is up. The EGR gets clogged with soot and tar. The rubber hoses dry out and crack or collapse at the 90 degree bends causing vacuum leaks. The COPs fail due to being overdriven with high current. I think the works is the heads with only 3 or 4 threads to hold the spark plugs in. You're driving down the highway one day and a spark plug literally blows out of the head due to insufficient thread purchase. Now you have to buy the Time Sert or Heli Coil tool to do the repair both of which are also cheaper than removing the heads.

 

I think the type of trip is a big factor. Short trips with little warmup time really hurt and longer trips more consistently are better. I have a very short commute to work, I do take a few longer road trips as my folks and my inlaws both live 3 hours away, but not enough to offset the 1/2 mile drive to work.

 

I was driving mine to WY from TX which is about 1369 miles every 2 weeks, use Mobil 1, fuel cleaner, you name it and still broke one, dealership made plenty on my bill.

 

This sounds cool. You care to share the spreadsheet? I would like to keep this on my truck too.

 

well my dad had his done a few weeks ago at a local shop, they didnt break one of them, they had it done by lunch time, $325 out the door

 

Local shop quoted $100 per cylinder if they break. Not sure what the "no break" price would be. Deducting the "extras" out of the dealer tune-up quote, looks like about $600-650 "no break" pricing verses about ~$1050 if they all break. WAY HIGH!!!! Considering doing myself, though I have no time, just have less $$$.

 

That sounds like a real good deal, it only takes one broken to multiply the bill to the roof. Passenger side head had to be machined, so they say, which I would have to take it off to confirm it, and it was in the dealer's shop for over a week.

 

Haven't read all the posts on this thread. Just wanted to share my plug change on my 05' 5.4 with 100k. My mechanic said the best way he's found is to use an impact wrench and just run them out, no stopping. Did all mine without any breaking. I've heard others on here with the same success. Just some more info on these plugs. Too bad though my truck is now plagued with the damn cam phaser issues. Good luck to all....

 

Does the 04 5.4 2V have the breaking plugs on removal issues?

 

Well, 9 hours and a fair bit of cussing later, 7 of 8 plugs broke, all with the ceramic left inside the metal ground shield and most (6) with the electrode. And all that was not SO bad, HOWEVER, the very last plug (#1 cyl) broke and the thread on the Lisle tool threads gave up and stripped off! UGH!!!! What a POS!!!

And I cannot locate a another tool set in my area!!!!!!!! My prior search had found that only O'Reily's and NAPA carried the tool, and being 6pm on Saturday only O'Reilly's was open, and is the only store open today. They checked and the closest one is a two hour (one way) drive. They can order and have it here Tuesday, but I need the truck fixed today as I have to travel some for work Monday morning. Late last night I started conceding to making the drive to Greenville, SC, but not sure which store has it, AND I want to call that store directly just to make sure it is really there. Waiting until they open to call, but that really chews up the day by the time I will get back home.

 

So, I found two relatively local NAPA stores open today, and both said (online) they had one. Went to one town and they could not find it. Then went to the other, and yea, I was ablet o spend another $113 on a secound extraction tool. First try to extract resulted in a damaged first thread . Did some more prep work looking for a reason, then gave it a second shot, tightening the crap out of it. Got it out. Hallelujah! Buttoned up the job, and miracle of miracles, it once again cranked and runs well. Also removed and decarbed the TB. Will post some pics on my gallery in the next several days, after I have time to recover.

 

Great man, sometimes is like head and knuckle breaking, got the plug out, worst case scenerio would have been pulling the head off to get the thread. Nightmarish & Co$$$$tly.

 

Wow tooldad,..I felt like a jerk when I read you broke 7, I guess I was just lucky,...HOWEVER,...I am a true believer in Kroil,...,I use PB Blaster also,..but if you ever use Kroil,..you will see the difference,..My plugs came out covered in carbon,...but wet like syrup,..(kroil doesn't dry out)
and I started with a warm to the touch engine,..but maybe it;s just a matter of luck,..What do you guys re-torque your plugs to? I set at 25 lbs. plus a little tweak more...Randall

 

So, the great news is that NAPA took back the damaged tool and gave me a full refund. Yea! Also found where you can purchase the threaded extraction tool separately. Going to order one as a spare for next time. Thanks, ojai150!

 

I just went through this. What a b*tch! I don't think the carb cleaner or kroil matters. As soon as you start turning the plug at all, for that initial 1/4 turn, they break. I think it is a matter of luck and how much crud has built up underneath them. Only 3 of mine came out w/o breaking. I have 76,000 mi. on my 2006. That Lisle tool was a life saver!