I have a holley 600 electric choke, it is a new carburetor and the choke will does not want to open even after the thermostat is open and the accelerator has been pressed, i called holley about the problem but they were not very helpful, I have a good 12 volt source because the choke worked fine on my edelbrock, I rotated the choke cover all the way to the lean side but the choke still does not want to open soon enough, if i have a 12 volt source going to the choke if I turn on the key will the choke open without the engine running so that I can watch it open with the engint not running
thanks

 

Where are you getting your 12V from?

I've always tapped into the Stator wire between the alt. and voltage regulator. This way you only have voltage while it is running. It has always worked fine on my Holleys.

 

My choke only uses 7 volts if my memory is correct. The choke should come off the alt stator again if my memory is working correct.

 

i swapped my edelbrock for the holley and the edelbrock was working fine when i removed it, the other day I took the truck down the road for a few miles and when i got home the choke was still engaged and the high idle did not want to kick down, the holley rep said something about vacuum maybe holding it down, but i don't really see how, if I have a good twelve volt source and i cut the key to on without cranking the truck should i be able to see the choke slowly open up or not
thanks

 

If you turn the key on and jiggle the throttle you will be able to see the choke open.

Most aftermarket carb choke units take 12V, others take the lower stator voltage but those are usually choke assist mechanisms with exhaust heat used to keep the choke open. The OEM ford carbs used the choke assist mechanism and were connected to the stator voltage. The stator voltage is high while charging the battery after a start. The choke assist mechanism was designed for emissions and fuel economy to help release the choke sooner.

 

with my old holley, I just removed the choke butterfly all together, jst pump the gas about 5 times and crank it. It ran 10xs better.

 

It must turn over easier while starting due to reduced compression from the raw gas washing down the bores.

[QUOTE=JJPMach1] It ran 10xs better.[QUOTE].
A tune up by way of removing the electric choke?
Must be on sick out of tune motor for a 10X improvement.

Properly functioning electric choke is the best thing since sliced bread.

 

I checked for 12 volts again at the choke and I have 12 volts and the choke is drawing about 2 amps with the key on the engine off but still no movement on the choke.

thanks
blake

 

Pull the black heating element w/ bimetal coil off then hook 12 volts to it and see if the bimetal unit uncoils when heated and coils when cooled.
The choke linkage move freely?
The bimetal coil should have a loop or eye on the end that needs to be over the linkage finger sticking out, it may of missed the finger upon assembly.

To really screw you up there are different older black heating units that uncoil in the opposite direction causing more choke to be applied when the bimetal coil is heated.

I bet it's something simple, you'll see once inside.

 

the coil looks a little distorted, according to the book i got it does not look like the one that is pictured in the book, where can I get a replacement coil for my choke if I need one , I have looked in some of my catalogs and cannot find just the black coil piece

thanks

 

Anyone that sells Holley carbs should be able to get the choke cap.
Here is the Holley link with part number http://www.holley.com/45-258.asp