Well I had a problem with the truck dieing when it would get hot. Thought I would replace the pickup (stator) in the distributer. Well, in doing so I ran into other problems. Now I have all of that done. Truck starts and runs fine for about 10 mins and dies. Truck will not restart. Then I unplug the spout connector and the truck will start. Hmmmmm.

Whatcha think?


Thanks
Jamie

 

something is telling the computer to shut off the spark

 

What other problems?

 

If you are questioning the TFI module then get a Ford Rotunda TFI IV Intermittent Ignition Analyzer and hook it up. It will tell you all you need to know about the condition of the TFI. Thats what I use and it works great!

 

I had knocked the oil pump shaft out and thought I had ruined the engine. Installed new oil pump shaft and all is better now.



Where do I get this and how much?
Wouldn't you think that unplugging the jumper from the spout connected to the TFI module allows it to start would point to a bad tfi?

Thanks
Jamie

 

Okay, so I replaced the tfi module. Still doing the same thing. The truck will start. But it will spit and sputter and pop while the jumper is in the spout.

Then, I shut the truck off. I disconnect the jumper from the spout and restart the truck. The truck begins idling just fine.

This happen to anyone before? If so PLEASE help.


Regards,
Jamie

 

Is this a bad EEC computer? Relay? How do I test a relay?

Thanks
Jamie

 

No, No, If it starts and runs for two minutes they are good.
Did you remove the SPOUT and use a timing light to set the timing at 10* BTDC?
Sounds like when the engine warms up and the EEC changes the timing it shuts down.

 

I set the timing with the spout disconnected. Now I can't get the truck to start with the spout in. It is like there is no fire(fast turnover).

I pulled codes and got code 33(slow flashes) and a code 512(fast flashes)

I am baffled

 

If you have not replaced the entire ignition system. Than you should do so. Check plug gap, the coil might not be strong and thick film Ignition moduals can not be tested correctly with an aftermarket tester, (trustme). If all checks out, including wires and connections, than the computer is bad.

 

If it was the coil, why would it fire fine and run fine with the jumper out?
I am new at this so bare with me. Same goes for plugs and wires

Thanks

 

I was thinking more towards the timing gears for this problem.

 

I'm agreeing with Subford.....must have jumped timing....or terrible amount of slack.
Phillip

 

How could I check this? For the slack, I turn the crank by hand and see how long it takes for the rotor to move right?

If it did jump time, could I retard it more and then plug spout in? Does this mean that the computer is trying to advance it too much?
Forgive me for being so ignorant on the subject. I just want to understand this and what I need to do to correct it. At this time I am not able to go in with new timing chain. But I will before the year is over. I have a mustang gt cam to go in and it would be the perfect time.


Jamie

 

What engine do you have?