hi all!
dunnoo if anyone has ever posted here a disc brake conversion by "part" for 57-60 e.g. rotor from:__________ caliper from:________ brkt from :_________ & etc.
so can somebody steer me to the post, or do a quick rundown for me, lastnite on my spring pre driving safety check i noticed my front shoes are wearin' pretty thin, this may just be the time to do the conversion.
mikie
near ottawa canada
58 merc panel, 64 econo p/u

 

Check out ECI. I used their kit on my 60, it worked great.

It is not as simple as swapping some salvage yard parts. You need an adapter plate that provides for the caliper to mount. The rotors come off a late 70 F150, but you have to change out the bearing race and bearing to make it work with the original spindles. The calipers for ECI come off a mid 70's GM.

IMHO by the time you are done, buying the kit will actually save you time and money.

 

Also check out the tech article I wrote on what parts to use. It breaks it down by year and make for 90% of the parts. I would highly suggest not doing the junkyard crawl for them. Especially since the parts are designed to be consumable due to the high amount of wear produced from the friction generated by the braking system. You can buy all the parts locally with a warrenty or pay the same amount from the junkyard then have to buy again is something is wrong with them.

 

What they said. Consider buying some fancier rotors, although that raises the cost a bunch. I ordered in the "Brutestop" rotors, mostly because that way I could say I had them. But considering the bad smells that come off the drums when descending mountain switchbacks, extra cooling didn't seem like a bad idea.

By the way, can someone explain what the right tools are for replacing the bearing races? Or should I just take it into a machine shop and let them do it?

 

I have seen special tools used for driving out bearing races but it's a done done so seldomly that it makes little sense to buy them. I've used pieces of pipe and large sockets with success and even large screwdrivers and a hammer. It's very easy to do yourself. Don't take it to a machine shop.

 

To drive the old race out just clean the grease out of the hub. Then you should see an indent in the casting where the race sets, Just use a heavey punch and drive out the race with a 1 1/2 pound hammer or a BFH if you don't have a smaller one. Turn the hub over and drive out the other race. Find a bearing driver or big socket or peice of pipe that is the same size as the bearing race or just a little bit smaller than the outside of the race, you don't want to damage the area where the bearing will ride.Then with the Race the correct way with the tapper out drive the race in until seated. Turn the hub over and drive in the other one. Pack your bearings with a good quality wheel bearing grease and also put some grease on the races put your inside bearing in and install the grease seal.
Now you are ready to put it back on the vehicle.
Don

 

I always put the new race into the freezer for a hour or so before installing it. This shrinks it a little and makes it easier to install.

 

DONMCAY's is the way I do mine, except a few things different. I wrap the drive punch, rod,rebar what ever use with duct tape to prevent accidental scratching anything. I was taught when driving races in or out to visualize a clock overlay on the races and hammer drive at 12,6,9,3 and repeat to evenly drive the race in or out. The other item taught to me was take the old race and cut one side on a bandsaw then on a belt sander to slightly reduce diameter. You can now use this in reverse order to drive the new race into position. I use a small metal plate over the race for hammering. Hammer until race is seated. Grease prevents over temping bearings and also prevents moisture from ruining the races so use plenty and change annually for long life. There are variations on doing this project and most all will work. The cold method I've seen used on rear straight axles and corvette IRS races, but I never used it on front races. Hope this helps. Have a great day,chuck

 

If you are handy with welding rod, you can weld a one inch (or so) bead on the old race. It heats the crap out of it and it will fall out.

 

this may not be correct but i beleived that u could get a mid to late 70's disc brake front off a f100/150 by belting out the king pins and just transfering the parts across
( replacing the worn parts as required )including the booster/master.
is this wrong?
cya....gary

 

hmmm! that sounds intriguing............
its the brkt. i guess im mostly after..... i know the wear items aint gonna come from the wrecking yard, we have a fellow in our carclub has a massive yard, close to 2000 units 20s-90s gives us full run of the place pick stuff up for little or nuthin. specially' stuff like this that normally would never ever sell. just go out on a rainy day with either a gas chopsaw or torches and nip em off.
anyone else out there know bout' this 70s f series swap out?
mikie!
near ottawa canada
58 merc 100 panel/64 econo p/u