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the WVO and the Diesel will seperate after a while.
Keroseene will mix better with WVO from what i've read on here.
The WVO will basically get to thick anyways if your going to mix.
I'd think it would screw things up.
If it seperates any in the tank at all, you run the risk of burning cold WVO, and screwing things up big time.
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Talyn (AKA: der Schafen Führer)
1994 F250 XLT 4x4 Standard Cab - T-444E Direct Injection Turbo Diesel, 5 SPD M/T Z/F S5-420, Rosewood 160cc Stage 1's, PHP Tuner, 6637, Short Throw Shift Kit, Valair Kevlar/Ceramic, 140V IDM, T-500, 285/75/16 Cooper Discoverer ATR. Steyr C9-A1. You can get more with a kind word and a 2x4 than you can with just a kind word.
I know if i buy kerosene from the amish here though, it is different from the stuff you get at the gas station. its not dyed, burns hotter and cleaner also.
k-0? i duno
just like diesel, there are different kerosene grades.
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Talyn (AKA: der Schafen Führer)
1994 F250 XLT 4x4 Standard Cab - T-444E Direct Injection Turbo Diesel, 5 SPD M/T Z/F S5-420, Rosewood 160cc Stage 1's, PHP Tuner, 6637, Short Throw Shift Kit, Valair Kevlar/Ceramic, 140V IDM, T-500, 285/75/16 Cooper Discoverer ATR. Steyr C9-A1. You can get more with a kind word and a 2x4 than you can with just a kind word.
The WVO and Diesel will not seperate, in the tank or otherwise, unless you are using Hydrogenated (shortening) oils. It has to be the kind that is liquid, even at 35 degrees. However, the 50/50 mix is still too thick to run especially below about 80 degrees and even more especially in the newer electronic injector engines. However, on a simple engine (IDI), a simple heated fuel filter running off your heater hose makes a great alternative to big time mods, as long as it stays abovo 60 outside.
The WVO and Diesel will not seperate, in the tank or otherwise, unless you are using Hydrogenated (shortening) oils.
Unless you can figure out a way to controvert the laws of physics the above is not a true statement
Here are some thoughts on the subject:
By choosing to run a WVO/#2 mix you are risking $10,000 (the cost of a new motor) to save $3,000 (the cost of a conversion kit).
Any gambler will tell you those are lousy odds.
The cost of WVO is $0/gal and the cost of #2 is about $3/gal. You will recover the cost of the conversion kit after 1000 gals, thats less than 1 year for most of us.
If the initial cost is a problem then spend $200 and build an appleseed processor to make BioDiesel. It will cost you about $1/ gal to make it so the initial investment is recovered after 100 gals, about 6 weeks driving.
Either method is much safer for your engine than mixing.
Mixing 50/50 WVO/#2 will still cost you $1.50/gal your engine is at risk.
It is your engine it is your choice.
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2006 F350 4X4 Crew Cab King Ranch edition strictly factory, for now.
Last edited by Phydeaux88; 04-19-2007 at 06:01 PM.
Thats what they are listing for the newer tractors.
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Talyn (AKA: der Schafen Führer)
1994 F250 XLT 4x4 Standard Cab - T-444E Direct Injection Turbo Diesel, 5 SPD M/T Z/F S5-420, Rosewood 160cc Stage 1's, PHP Tuner, 6637, Short Throw Shift Kit, Valair Kevlar/Ceramic, 140V IDM, T-500, 285/75/16 Cooper Discoverer ATR. Steyr C9-A1. You can get more with a kind word and a 2x4 than you can with just a kind word.
Unless you can figure out a way to controvert the laws of physics the above is not a true statement
If you referred to the thread I referred you to earlier, you'll see that others besides myself have not had blends seperate. If you go to the infopop Solvent
Blending forum, http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/foru...m/f/9751014871
you can talk to a lot of people that are doing this successfully.
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1999 F-350 with Tymar type air filter, Dahl 100 fuel filter, HP oil X-over, bypass oil filter, coolant filter.
Last edited by firemediceric; 04-19-2007 at 08:30 PM.
Blends of diesel and high quality (not-hydrogenated) wvo do not separate on the time scale of many months even down to freezing temperatures as can readily be proven by putting the mix in jars which I and many others have done. More interesting is how tolerant a HOT IDI engine is to the blend. I observe that I can run 25% wvo at any temperature in my part of New England (20 degrees typical cold winter day) and 50% at 50 degrees. At somewhere around 60-70% which will work fine in the summer the cost is below biodiesel raw costs. I still like the idea of biodiesel-- if I can find a cheap source I will run it this coming winter.
Jim
__________________ Danny PAA member #12
SoCal Chapter Member
E99 F-350 Dually Van turbo 4x4 CC LB 7.3L, AFE intake, 3 gauge pillar, 4" Magnaflow SS str8-pipe, DP Tuner, Swamps 175/146 SS inj, ARP head and bottom studs, Comp 910 springs, ITP Ovrbst, CCV mod, SS HPX, home made Reg-return, Foil Del, ZooDad, Air Horns 320hp/704tq
I have blended but only in one tank, the other I kept with #2 or JetA. I have blended up to 50/50 ( this depends on outside temps) in the heat of the summer. I have had my injectors inspected since then and since running a WVO system for 21,000 miles and the injectors had no problems.
Why only in one tank, I believe just like running a pure SVO/WVO system the engine NEEDS to be at operating temp before introducing VO. And suggest that you shut the engine down using the diesel tank. If not you run the risk of Coking. Since I have installed a WVO heated system I don't run the mix anymore. Also I will add I only mixed during the Summer when temps average were above 70 overnight.
I have not had it totally seperate, probably due to the high usage.
Also remember the fuel in the rails of the 7.3 keep the fuel Hot before it is consummed. So it does heat the mix when the fuel is in the rails. You mainly need the outside temp to be hot enough to keep the mix flowing to the filter.
Yes there is risk of trashing a $10000 engine but you run the same risk installing a kit for VO. The BIG thing is to prevent injector or engine problems is the quality of the fuel you use. Clean and Clean and dewater and clean your VO before using.
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