I bought a rebuilt 2v Champion carb w/manual choke for my '64 F-100. It has the original 292 engine. I tried it on last night and cranked up but it was way too accelerated. I followed the instructions that came with the carb and no luck. Can anyone help? It's the same carb but can't figure out the excessive acceleration. The only thing I can think of that was different was the thin gasket that came w/the rebuilt unit. I don't know if that makes a difference or not? The gasket has the center portion while the old carb did not have it when I removed it. I figured it needed it since it came with the rebuilt one. I still have the old carb though. I've rebuilt the old carb before and had no problems. Hope some one can help. Also, the accelerator pump(?) on the rebuilt carb moves very little. On my old unit, the pump moves much more. Maybe a bad carb? Any help will be appreciated. PS. Posted this on the carb list also.

 

Check to make sure the thinner gasket isn't stopping the throttle linkage from closing all the way. A thicker gasket can be picked up for a few dollars at the parts store or grap a stack and RTV between each one to seal them together. Just don't use a lot of RTV, a light film is all you need. Plus the thicker gasket will cut down on the amount of heat transfer to the carb to prevent boiling the fuel in the bowls. My Weiand Stealth intake needed a little ground off the passenger side so the vacuum secondaries could close all the way. It took me a few days to find that one since it was hidden by the choke and vacuun diaphram housings. You could also have an air leak that is allowing more air to enter the engine. Spray some carb cleaner around the base of the carb while it is running after you check that the linkages are not making contact.

 

There is a thick spacer already there. I'll check the thin gasket for clearance with the throttle link. The only vaccum line I see is for the vaccum advance going to the distributor. I'll check to see if there are any other leaks around the base as you suggested later this pm. I'll By the way, I haven't yet messed around with any of the adjustment needles. Instructions indicated that they were already set to factory specs and don't want to touch those unless it looks like I have to after checking for other problems I'm overlooking. I'll keep you posted on the result and thanks for the tips Mark.

 

Check the line from the carb to distr.

 

Just got done with checking it and found that the throttle linkage was giving it the gas. I realized that after I was about to take off the carb and check the gasket for obstruction. I took off the spring from the throttle assembly and realized that the original setting was too far back thus accelerating the carb. I simply loosened the nut and attached it back and it cranked up. Now the other problem I have is crud in the gas tank plugging up the fuel line from inside the gas tank and adjusting the timing. I'll check on that tomorrow and see about the Jeep gas tanks that Mark mentioned in another post. Thanks for the help Mark. I'll try to put up some pics on my control panel, now that I have a digital camera. Thanks for the help guys.

 

I'm glad it turned out to be something simple. I would hate for people to go through some of the pains I have with my truck. To get the larger chucks of crud out of the gas tank you can pull the sending unit off and use a magnet to grab some of them. That will cut down on the amount of road side fixes. For a while I carried a length of rubber tubing to blow air back through the pickup tube. Works pretty good as long as you pop the cap off the tank.

 

I've been really wanting to change the in-cab tank and place it in the rear under the body. I keep going back and forth on the idea and I really haven't made up my mind just yet. I would like to have the extra space in the cab and not have the smell of the fumes in my cab also. Just don't know all about the vented gas tanks and how they work just yet. I've been searching the subject on-line but haven't found anything helpful to let me see it drawn out to understand it better. I saw the pics on gankstas truck and a tech article posted here for the Mustang tank on a truck. Saw the vented pipe on the tech article but it didn't say where it led to. Any idea on where it goes?

 

With vent caps and lines they are placed higher then the tank itself. With a cap it allows for the evaporating fuel to escape the tank through the cap on the side of the cab. If you look at an older truck you can see the effects of the fumes on some painted surfaces. You'll see the rainbow effect as my son calls it. The vent line will, depending on model and emmisions, route the fumes to a canistor, to a high point near the filler neck, or ????. Hopefully this helps a little bit.

I struggle with the question of relocating the tank myself. To be honest though, I like the smell of my old truck inside the cab. If I do decide to swap the tank out it will be with a Jeep tank though. Being a short bed I don't have the room in my frame rails to mount a Mustang tank.

 

Ya know - they are pricey but try dropping a new Holley in your y-block - I diddled around with rebuilding old carbs (after all the expense of engine rebuild I get cheap on what, a $200 carb??) and whatnot for quite a while, but it's not even funny how much better it runs after that.