In the past two months I picked up two boats for about nothing...I have never owned one, and do not know a thing about driving restrictions, care,etc. ...Help me out.

The first is a 16FT wooden boat...My father in law gave this to me. The motor was rebuilt, just need to refinish the hull.

The second is fiberglass, I think the maker is called Rydell. It is about 18-19 foot long and has a small inline six Chevy motor in it...Don't know much about Chevy motors...Guessing 250 CID....Anyways, the motor is the only issue. The guy said he had it rebuilt, but on the first outing it died. Based on what the oil looked like...He got water in it. My guess is head gasket, but not sure if boats may have different issues than trucks.

Any info and all info would be greatly appreciated!

 

Hey brother,
You happen to have one of the nuttiest boat nuts in this land right here in your FTE forum.
Boat engines are mechanically the same at Auto's. They are however very different when it comes to electricity and grounding etc. They usuallr yun about 140 deg not 185. If you have to change a carb, starter, alternator, ect, Pay the money and get MARINE STUFF. if you cheap out it may not be a big deal or your boat may Explode with out warning.
Let me know any specifics if you need help
buddy

 

im a boat nut too, (my parents had a big wellcraft, I have a '05 seadoo fast devil) my advice is the same as marty's marine stuff, a lot of people tend to just put normal car and truck parts in the engine, well water gets in there a tad bit no matter what, so the next thing you are blowing your alt, starter, carb and anything else. just slowly and make sure you use all marine parts, and even marine oil. West Marine..look for one by you they are AMAZING

-brent

 

That's how you pull a chevy straight six out of a boat.

 

what is the running gear on the boats? Mercruiser or OMC
if it is OMC





Im Sorry

 

Get a motor book, hull maintenance book if it needs it, just like for trucks. Good call getting Marine quality hardware, S/S grade 316 or better, auto parts and cheap stainless will just corrode. Good S/S is not magnetic at all, carry a little magnet around when parts shopping. Alternator, screws, washers, everything.

You'll pay twice the price for the "M" word. Old joke: A boat is a hole in the water you throw money into.

I have an OMC knuckle-drive if that's what yours is, might be able to help.

If it is a knuckle-drive, Never engage the gears over 1100 RPM. Keep it marine lubed, there's filler plugs on it. Re-lube if it's been in there a long time.
- -

Nice truck-lift rig Jared.

 

Well you got the defination of Boat but you did not get the acronym:

B.O.A.T

Bust
Out
Another
Thousand

 

Too funny...I only know the car acronyms, but can't post about some of them here...

 

Not sure what the difference is...It is a thing that floats and has a chevy (not working) motor to move it.

 

What is knuckle drive and OMC?...Like I said I do not no a darn thing about boats...I know the thing can float, and I will get that motor purring...That's about it at this point.

 

The Mercruiser is black The OMC is white
OMC is out of business and parts are scarce. They were never a Top Quality out drive. The Mercruiser is the Best. They call em Black Magic and the rule of thumb is Black on Back. I rebuilt my Mercruiser Gen II. I would seriouslly never reccomend anyone do their own. If it done correctlly it is no problem. If not it will Nuke itself within an hour.
Oh by the way I just got the renewel notice for my Boat Registration and it is 40.00 for my 1984 Searay 19'

 

By the way My motor is 1/2 of a ford 460 it is a 170 HP I 4 banger

 

OMC Johnson and Evinrude brands was bought by Bombardier of Canada. The OMC boat brands and plants bought by Genmar.

This OMC drive has lasted 30 years, like everything you have to treat it right. Mercruiser is better. Like comparing John Deere to Case.

Need to ID that drive. Lookit the model/part numbers stamped in it. The color if it hasn't been repainted. New paint will prolly be flaking off cuz it's expensive and tricky to apply esp for a salt-water environment. Here's OMC after-market parts, drive identification, repair costs http://www.sterndrive.info/ and http://www.boatmotors.com/motorparts/

A "knuckle-drive" is one of the OMC stern drives (through the transom hull). When you lower the foot (the lower drive with the prop on it) to engage it with the drive shaft, its knuckle gear engages the knuckle gear on the drive shaft from the motor.

Knuckle gear. They would be visible at the drive joint when the foot is up.


ID your stern drive or any more tech talk is wasted

Searay! Mine's a '76 24-footer with a 351M or W 4 barrel. The hull is in need of de-mossing and cleaning. Searay's deep V hull is a great sea keeper that Bayliner started copying years ago.

 

The two happiest days in the life of a boat owner. When he buys it, and when he sells it.

A boat is a hole in the water you throw money into.

Sorry, as a former boat owner, I couldn't resist.

 

ainful laugh:

You ain't kidding.

Mike, you may as well just throw away your billfold and bank accounts, cuz there won't be any more money for them.

BTW, engine maintenance will rely a lot on if you have FWC (fresh water cooling) or SWC (salt water cooling). Salt water is nature's natural cancer, it will eventually eat anything.