I replaced the timing set, camshaft, and complete distributor--It ran for two weeks, and totally destroyed the camshaft gear and the distributor gear. I am afraid that the camshaft may be "walking" forward, but do not see a way to keep it in place. What do I do?

 

Are you absolutely sure you have the correct dizzy?. The shaft length of the 351 is longer than the 302, due to different deck heights. Also, the dizzy gear must be steel or bronze for a roller cam, rather than cast irom, due to harder cam material.


Pete

 

Excessive distributor gear wear can be a problem with Ford engines. Most of the time, the problem is a result from the use of a high volume oil pump. High volume oil pumps put a lot of stress on the distributor and cam gears. A high volume oil pump is not necessary on a street driven engine that turns no more than 7000 rpms. Only extreme racing engines require the high volume pump. Should you use this type of oil pump, the following precautions will save your distributor gear from early destruction.

(1) Drill a .030" hole in the lifter/oil galley plug behind the distributor. This will allow additional lubrication on the distributor and cam gears. This will not lower oil pressure enough to hurt the engine.

(2) Ford oil pump mounting brackets have elongated holes. Due to this, the distributor shaft and oil pump shaft should be aligned so that the distributor turns freely before tightening the mounting bracket bolts. Failure to do this will cause a binding situation, thus damaging the gear.

(3) Stock Ford hex oil pump drive shafts are know to vary in length which could cause a bottoming or binding situation.

(4) Brass distributor gears can be used to avoid damaging the cam gear. Brass gears are softer and can wear out quicker than the cast gear, but will not cause damage to the cam gear. If using a brass gear, check it occasionally for wear

 

There's no way a cam can "walk forward" unless there's something wrong with the camshaft thrust plate (C9OZ-6269-A) which rarely if ever fails. OR..When you installed the camshaft, did you remember to re-install the special washer (C2OZ-6278-A) that fits between the flat washer on the bolt and camshaft eccentrics that drive the fuel pump? How about the roll pin (378189-S) that retains the cam sprocket to the cam?


If you had listed the year and/or the dizzy ID number (on the base below the cap), I could have told you what the correct dizzy is, and the correct gear and number of teeth it has.


There are TWO different oil pump shafts used on a 351W.

351W oil pump shafts: C9OZ-6A618-A 1969/1978 OR D9AZ-6A618-A 1979/.

 

This plate holds the cam in place, with the gear installed you should have very little end play....my guess would be the wrong gear on the distr.

 

1. How do I know if I have the correct gear on the distributor?

2. How about the correct oil pump shaft?
3. With my cam installed like the picture below, there is a lot of "end play". In fact, so much so that the fuel pump eccentric actually rubbed against the timing cover and left shavings in the cover.
4. I did install a high volume oil pump, because I had virtually zero oil pressure when the engine was warmed up and stopped at an intersection or red light. Should I remove and replace it? What about the oil pressure?
5. I have no idea what year model the engine is, how do I tell?
6. I'm fairly sure I have the correct distributor; the oil pump shaft is definitely larger in diameter than a 302.

Here are the numbers from the distributor:
D0AF-12131-A

I gotta get this thing going!
Thanks,
Vern

 

Just to jump in with one last piece of information, my machine shop guru who I grew up with and have known for over 30 years specializes in NASCAR and short track racing engines (No, I don't do either)> But, I have asked him numerous times over the years about the advantages and disadvantages of hi-volume oil pumps. His constant answer over the years makes alot of sense:
1. Hi-volume oil pumps require high volumes of oil...therefore larger that stock oil pan is always required.
2. If stock oil pan, use stock flow pump...period.

 

Sounds to me that you completely left the camshaft retainer plate off when you did the swap. I have had two plates wear till I figured out the timing set I used had a steel cam gear (Ford Racing set) But the wear took place over a year's time. It never had an effect on either the cam or distributor gears.

 

The camshaft retainer plate is definitely installed; it just moves forward and backward quite a bit.

 

Ford dizzy ID number should include 12127, not 12131. The D0AF = 1970.

The ID number is on the base, below where the rim of the cap sits.

 

Oil pump shafts: 1965/72

289/302 .. C20Z-6A618-A / 7.44" -length

351W .. C9OZ-6A618-A / 5/16" hex / 8 3/16" -length

351C .. D0AZ-6A618-A / 8 7/16" -length

 

Make sure the pin that holds it all together is not to long...they had two..a long one and a short one...I believe the short pin was used for the two piece eccentrics.......if you have the long pin in the cam it wont work and will allow the cam to move in and out.....

 

If you had the retainer in place, then the cam timing gear you used was missing the "step" cast in place that replaced the earlier washer that went behind the gear, or in other words, you used the early 221/260/289 cam timing gear on that 302.

 

what year 351w are you running? bronco/f150 or car?