2002 Ranger 2.3L 5 spd just over 40,000 miles.

Anyone have recommendations for rotors for a Ranger? As you might guess from the low mileage, I do nearly all city miles, very little highway. Haul stuff occasionally, but mostly used to commute to work 16 miles/day. Not a brake-rider, but for some reason the stock rotors just don't seem up to the task. Original rotors were turned at around 11,000 miles and replaced under warranty at around 19,000. Managed to get to 31,000 on those, then had them turned last March. Got about 8,000 miles and the vibrations are starting again. Not under warranty anymore and I don't plan on selling it for some time, so I would REALLY like to find a set of rotors (when I have to replace these) that I could get more than 12,000 miles out of before they need service. The fact they are part of the hub doesn't make me a happy camper when I am doing the work myself, either.....

Thanks for any suggestions!

 

bought mione at checkers or autozone unless you are asking about the high dollar items often seen in the magazines. If you change them go ahead and change the calipers they are only about $20 each for rebuilds and a lot better then trying to rebuild yourself.

 

As I am attempting to NOT have to do maintenance on my brakes every year (rotors need turning or replacing before half the pads are worn), I am looking for some high-quality rotors that will outlast the OEM stuff.

 

The high wear rate you're experiencing probably isn't due to any quality issues. It's more likely connected to driving style and environment.

I have a 2004 FX4 auto. with 45,000 mi. and the brakes are probably only half worn out (I just looked at them yesterday). My previous Ranger (1991 4.0 5 spd.) had 100,000 mi when I sold it and the original brakes were still good, and I'm not a granny driver. I let the engine do as much braking as I can. It seems to pay off...


Pat

 

If you can reasonably assume all of your front end parts are good as well as your calipers there are some things you can do to help extend the life of your brakes. If not make sure you replace the worn part with quality replacements and make sure your caliper pins are properly lubed so they won't stick.

Brake pads actually have a lot in common with spark plugs, in that they are more/less effective depending on the heat range they will operate in. In a similar comparison if you take a vehicle and start running laps on a road course you will quickly find that the pads &/or brake fluid just aren't up to the task. The reason is not that the pads/fluid is poor quality, but that they were not designed to operate at those kinds of temp. The reverse is also true, were it is just a waste to put "racing" pads on a street driven vehicle. For the most part, if you were able to drive and keep them up to the temp range where they will work effectively you will also be known as "public enemy #1" by the local police.

That being said, a quality set of OEM replacement pads, rotors, can last a good long time. Fluid of course needs to be flushed and replaced on a regular basis, so there is no expected longevity to it. The key is in the "break-in" or "bedding" process. If done correctly the pads and rotors will last for many thousands of miles (depending on driving/conditions). If you read the following article, it will give you a good idea of what is happening, and how to avoid it. All manufactures are different and may have different "bedding" procedures so check with the directions to see what is recommended.

 

Excellent article, G2IC_Wraith. Thanks for the link.

Pat

 

That is an excellent article, and its right on the money - if you want maximum performance from the pads.

However, if you want maximum life from the pads, you do the 'bedding' with only gentle braking for the first 100 miles. You will give up a little in maximum braking ability, but you will approximately double the life of the pads.

I have 89k on my original factory brakes, and they are still running fine.

 

i cant say for rangers but for the vans i have i bought napa and advanced cheapies and both went bad quickly.. I went to Pep Boys and got their more expensive ones and they lasted on the last van til it was totalled. I had the same result with the ex wifes Dodge Stratus id use the Pep Boys on my ranger but at 146K it still has the originals on it and they are still true

 

I went with Ford Racing Performance Parts rotors and pads. The rotors are slotted. So far I have amassed about 14,000 on the pads and rotors, almost all city, they're probably a quarter worn or so. They were quite expensive however, the dealer I bought them from also said that some dealers didn't stock them.

 

Since you do mostly city driving, that would account for excessive brake wear. As you have a manual tranny, trying gearing down more and use the brakes less. I like hawk pads, they wear longer and leave less brake dust on the wheels. I have a manual tranny as well, I gear down and just use my brakes to get me totally stopped as the tranny as slowed me way down.

 

Then you have to weigh your options however. Gearing down is a good way to save on brakes, but it transfers the wear and tear to the synchros and clutch. Just my opinion, but I'd much rather wear our the comparatively cheap brake pads than my tranny. To each his own however.

 

Gearing down is been the way it's done since the invention of the automoble, it works the oposite of gearing up. You go up a gear at a time and gear down one gear at a time, this reduces the load on anyone gear. Sure, you don't want to go from 5th to 1st. If done properly, it will save on brakes, I've been gearing down all my life and have never had to replace a tranny or a clutch. I've blown out acouple of clutches, but that was drag racing crap. You learn to gear down when driving big trucks as the weight is to much on the brakes alone. Some times alight will catch you or something that you don't have time to gear down, but most of the time you do.

 

I would much prefer the stress on the brakes of stopping my 4000 pound pickup than shifting into fourth, third, second, then first. I've no problem wearing out pads and replacing them, but I have no desire to put additional wear on my clutch, synchros, and tranny in general by downshifting for every stop. Just my opinion.

 

Zach, he's not suggesting that you don't need to use the brakes, but that you can use the compression braking of the engine to reduce the need for braking. Done prudently, this results in no extra wear on the trans or clutch, and does save the brakes. As Wendell says, truckers do it commonly.

 

Not sure how easy it is in the Ranger but in my Focus I hit the brakes slightly and bump the gas(heal-toe) to increase the RPM about 1000 and than down shift and use the tranny and brake together. My 83 F250 I would just downshift and gear down while pressing the brake, couldn't heal-toe that beast. My Toyota I sometimes gear down and sometimes gear down 2 gears but I mostly use my brakes that don't work too well, I don't even bother trying to heal-toe it.

original crappy stock brakes all around still on the Focus at 42K.