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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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  #1  
Old 03-29-2007, 10:52 AM
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1982fordf100 1982fordf100 is offline
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Time for rear leaf spring, bracket, and shackle replacement

I remember seeing other similiar year trucks to that of my 95 F150 that needed leaf spring, leaf spring bracket, and shackle replacement do to rust holes. Both of my rear leaf springs have a broken leaf, and all of my brackets have rust holes through them. They also rusted in layers, its almost like to you can peel the layers of rust off. So Im going to be replacing all of this while I have both fuel tanks out. Im trying to find the best deal on new leaf springs. Im prolly going to go with broncograveyard.com since they are only about an hour from my house. Any advice would be great.
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1982 Ford F100, rebuilt 300, offenhauser dual port intake, holley 390 carb, EFI exhaust manifolds,walker downpipe, comp cams 260 cam, .020 over, melling oil pump, pioneer harmonic balancer....
1995 Ford F150 300 I6, M5OD and 8.8
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Old 03-29-2007, 11:04 AM
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I know what your saying "rusted in layers". Ahh. Your from SE/ Mich I see. Good luck! Nobody ever throws these trucks away anymore. Maybe a salvage yard or someone parting one out? May need to go to Detroit or Toledo.
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Old 03-29-2007, 12:39 PM
Paul4545 Paul4545 is offline
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I just did mine start spraying them with penetrating oil i did mine every couple days for a month and got all the bolts including u bolts to come out dont try to pound out the bolts turn them out with a wrench. I put in 1785 pound springs from jcw and they made the back of the truck sit to high for me and i think the graveyard ones will do the same if i had to do it over i would go to a spring shop and get stock ones.
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Old 03-29-2007, 12:44 PM
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How does the frame look around those areas? I hope it's in better shape than the shackles.
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Old 03-29-2007, 01:37 PM
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Let us know how those work. I'm thinking of using those also, 1700lb springs. Is your truck a reg or supercab? Broncograveyard is about 10 min from my house. I use them for a lot of parts.
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Old 03-29-2007, 06:09 PM
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The ones that I ordered are 1650 lbs springs, Im sure they will be a good stock replacement spring. As far as the frame around the hangers its fine, it had to been the quality of steel used in the brackets, all my frame has is light surface rust. My 95 F150 is a regular cab with an 8 foot bed. Im really convinced that it was the quality of steel used for all of these brackets. My 82 F100 which has been a michigan truck since new still has the orginal brackets and they are in great shape. Now the body on the 82 is a different story. I just don't understand how a 1/4 thick piece of steel can rust off in layers and pop holes. Also my dads 92 F150 has the same issue with the brackets. Thanks again, I'll take some pictures of when I do the job in the next few weeks.
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1982 Ford F100, rebuilt 300, offenhauser dual port intake, holley 390 carb, EFI exhaust manifolds,walker downpipe, comp cams 260 cam, .020 over, melling oil pump, pioneer harmonic balancer....
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Old 03-30-2007, 10:42 PM
MyFreeRusty88 MyFreeRusty88 is offline
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do yourself a favor and this may sound funny...go to your local dealer and check it out. i just bought new shackles for the back of my 88 250 and they were 27 bucks a side for new ones...just dont buy new bolts there. i bought all my bolts for all my springs and shackles for like 14 bucks at tractor supply. 1 bolt for a shackle at ford was 16 bucks. anyone lookin at 250 or 350 spring swaps will find that from the early 80's to 2004 will swap...just trying to figure how to do the front without screwin up the TTB.
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Old 04-01-2007, 08:05 AM
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The suspension brackets rust in layers because of the coating that Ford used. They dipped these parts and somehow moisture gets in under it. The rust starts under the paint and doesn't show until it is bad enough to lift the painted layer.
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Old 04-01-2007, 07:37 PM
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Thanks for the extra info on the brackets from the dealer. I surely didn't expect parts to be cheaper at the dealer. I ended up getting a few from there.

I still think that ford used a poor quality steel for these brackets. The paint that was on them sure didn't help. I figured I should just replace them now before one of the brackets snap. I plan on driving my truck for at least another 4 to 5 years.

Anyone have a fast way of removing the rivets? Im going to pull both gas tanks out and put a new front pump and tank back in. The rear tank and pump are only a year old. I was thinking of either my angle grinder to grind the heads off. I have a cutting torch but I don' know it that much heat that close to the frame would be so good. What about an air chisel?
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1982 Ford F100, rebuilt 300, offenhauser dual port intake, holley 390 carb, EFI exhaust manifolds,walker downpipe, comp cams 260 cam, .020 over, melling oil pump, pioneer harmonic balancer....
1995 Ford F150 300 I6, M5OD and 8.8
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Old 04-01-2007, 08:31 PM
MyFreeRusty88 MyFreeRusty88 is offline
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using a torch will be just fine. you're not worryin about the brackets that you're removing and it wont heat anything enough to hurt a thing.
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Old 04-19-2007, 05:49 PM
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man that lower bolt going through the rear shackle is a pita to get out. that bushing has the grip on death on it.
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Old 04-19-2007, 06:09 PM
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cut the head off and than chisel it out.
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Old 04-19-2007, 08:26 PM
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yea. tomorrow the grinder is getting some use. the front one through the leaf spring is completely seized on there too. i didn't have my grinder with me so i was trying all the old fashion ways. tomorrow is a different story.
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Old 04-20-2007, 08:26 PM
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VanZant, the way to take the rivets out is to grind a slot in the rivet w/ a grinder, then use an air chisel to pop the head of the rivet off then put a punch in the air chisel and drive it out. By grinding a slot, it allows the head to collapse so you can get it to pop off.
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Old 04-21-2007, 01:08 PM
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thanks for the tip. my brackets on the frame were in good condition though. just had to remove the shackle and leafs
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Old 04-21-2007, 01:08 PM
 
 
 
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