Time for rear leaf spring, bracket, and shackle replacement
I remember seeing other similiar year trucks to that of my 95 F150 that needed leaf spring, leaf spring bracket, and shackle replacement do to rust holes. Both of my rear leaf springs have a broken leaf, and all of my brackets have rust holes through them. They also rusted in layers, its almost like to you can peel the layers of rust off. So Im going to be replacing all of this while I have both fuel tanks out. Im trying to find the best deal on new leaf springs. Im prolly going to go with broncograveyard.com since they are only about an hour from my house. Any advice would be great.
I know what your saying "rusted in layers". Ahh. Your from SE/ Mich I see. Good luck! Nobody ever throws these trucks away anymore. Maybe a salvage yard or someone parting one out? May need to go to Detroit or Toledo.
I just did mine start spraying them with penetrating oil i did mine every couple days for a month and got all the bolts including u bolts to come out dont try to pound out the bolts turn them out with a wrench. I put in 1785 pound springs from jcw and they made the back of the truck sit to high for me and i think the graveyard ones will do the same if i had to do it over i would go to a spring shop and get stock ones.
The ones that I ordered are 1650 lbs springs, Im sure they will be a good stock replacement spring. As far as the frame around the hangers its fine, it had to been the quality of steel used in the brackets, all my frame has is light surface rust. My 95 F150 is a regular cab with an 8 foot bed. Im really convinced that it was the quality of steel used for all of these brackets. My 82 F100 which has been a michigan truck since new still has the orginal brackets and they are in great shape. Now the body on the 82 is a different story. I just don't understand how a 1/4 thick piece of steel can rust off in layers and pop holes. Also my dads 92 F150 has the same issue with the brackets. Thanks again, I'll take some pictures of when I do the job in the next few weeks.
do yourself a favor and this may sound funny...go to your local dealer and check it out. i just bought new shackles for the back of my 88 250 and they were 27 bucks a side for new ones...just dont buy new bolts there. i bought all my bolts for all my springs and shackles for like 14 bucks at tractor supply. 1 bolt for a shackle at ford was 16 bucks. anyone lookin at 250 or 350 spring swaps will find that from the early 80's to 2004 will swap...just trying to figure how to do the front without screwin up the TTB.
The suspension brackets rust in layers because of the coating that Ford used. They dipped these parts and somehow moisture gets in under it. The rust starts under the paint and doesn't show until it is bad enough to lift the painted layer.
Thanks for the extra info on the brackets from the dealer. I surely didn't expect parts to be cheaper at the dealer. I ended up getting a few from there.
I still think that ford used a poor quality steel for these brackets. The paint that was on them sure didn't help. I figured I should just replace them now before one of the brackets snap. I plan on driving my truck for at least another 4 to 5 years.
Anyone have a fast way of removing the rivets? Im going to pull both gas tanks out and put a new front pump and tank back in. The rear tank and pump are only a year old. I was thinking of either my angle grinder to grind the heads off. I have a cutting torch but I don' know it that much heat that close to the frame would be so good. What about an air chisel?
yea. tomorrow the grinder is getting some use. the front one through the leaf spring is completely seized on there too. i didn't have my grinder with me so i was trying all the old fashion ways. tomorrow is a different story.
VanZant, the way to take the rivets out is to grind a slot in the rivet w/ a grinder, then use an air chisel to pop the head of the rivet off then put a punch in the air chisel and drive it out. By grinding a slot, it allows the head to collapse so you can get it to pop off.