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Old 03-27-2007, 05:38 PM
racenitro racenitro is offline
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HPOP High Pressure Oil Pump Removal?

I searched and did not find any HPOP removal information. Want to replace the HPOP and need to know what all needs to be removed afte the filter housing so I can remove the HPOP. I also am replacing the fuel pump. No problem removing it along with the plunger. Once it was safely on the workbench, I was delighted.

On the HPOP, I assume I have to take the top off and the front cover plate to gain access to the bolt on the front of the pump. Is this correct?

Thanks
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Old 03-27-2007, 06:13 PM
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Here's step by step instructions. Kudos to rubberduck.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/53...-part-1-a.html
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Old 03-27-2007, 06:14 PM
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Here's a bit of info that doesn't apply to removal, justy interesting.
http://www.diesel-central.com/News/oil_pump.htm
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Old 03-27-2007, 09:26 PM
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Thanks for the props Jim. I was wondering if that thread would ever become usefull. I hope it did.
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Old 03-27-2007, 10:21 PM
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Cuda & Rubber Duck...

THANKS MUCH. Can't do it tomorrow, but first thing thursday...will follow your instructions.

One question...how did you get around the heater hose outlet on top of the water pump? Mine appears to be right in the way.

Could you replace the gear bolt with a long bolt that replacing the shorter one so the pump could be removed,but that would support the gear and help guide it back on when reinstalling?

Thanks
Frank
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Old 03-27-2007, 10:38 PM
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It really wasn't in the way for me. I just used my 3" extention to get around it. IIRC I thought the same thing, but it was easy to work around that hose. And like I said in the writeup, the gear ain't going anywhere. It can't fall down in the engine. The bolt and washer are a different story. Just pay attention to the part where I started out "depending on your dexterity, (I'm right handed)" and that should get you close to the position you need to be in to work your hand around the hose and work with the gear and bolt. I promise, once you get there, it really isn't that hard. I hope that helps, and I'll try to stay on the boards to answer any other questions you might have. Good luck to you man.
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Old 03-29-2007, 04:24 PM
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RUBBER DUCK!!!!
YOU BETTER CHECK YOUR TORQUE SPEC for the HPOP GEAR BOLT! SHEARED OFF AT 70 FT LBS. NOW I HAVE TO START ALL OVER.....
I TOOK YOUR WORD AND STARTED IN 20 LB increments.m JUST HOPE I CAN GET THE BOLT OUT . ALREADY had an issue with the PREVIOUS MECHANIC stripping the housing and had to HELI COIL The housing...


OH AND BY THE WAY...GUESS WHERE THE WASHR IS...
NOW I HAVE TO PULL THE ENGINE...
YOUR INCORRECT INFORMATION WILL COST ME WELL OVER $10,000 in LOST TIME....
PLEASE CORRECT YOUR INFORMATION!!!!
I AM HOPPING MAD!!!!!
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Old 03-29-2007, 05:38 PM
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racenitro, I feel your pain bro, but in my research that bolt is rated to 217 ft lbs. shear strength, add a minimum of 10% safety, they always add more and you should have been good up to 240'ish. I looked through the write up and thought that it was good that rubber duck covered his bases, and made no claims that would indicate what the exact torque was. With your bolt breaking at 70ft lbs, you had a defective bolt, no doubt, it sucks but it isn't rubber ducks fault. And if there was that much money involved take it to a mechanic in the first place. Again I feel bad for you, but take it easy.
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Old 03-29-2007, 05:45 PM
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You kidding right?

Dont blame rubberduck for his writeup, that was HIS experience with HIS hpop, he shouldnt have to put a disclaimer in his writeup saying he isnt responsible for any owners actions with their hpop removal/ install.

I always check 2-3 sources of torque specs before I tear into something.

You have had previous issues with this before and they just rigged it together?
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Old 03-29-2007, 05:47 PM
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Hay racenitro, that's to bad about broken bolt, but this is a board to help friends and save some cash. Rubberduck has help alot of people on this board including me, so I will come to his defense. I read the instructions my self and didn't see any referance to torque spec's. So take it easy man. I'm sorry about the lost time (money) that this has cost you. good luck.
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Old 03-29-2007, 06:12 PM
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yes it too bad that bolt broke. it never good or fun when that happens but it isn't Rubberducks fault. I did check my ford cd and the bolt toque according to that info is 95 ft lbs. so your bolt simply failed. sorry but thats case. that or you torque wrench is not accurate. that not a dig at you. After being a mechanic for over 10 years I have broke my fair share of bolts and other assorted expensive peices. four things can happen that lead to breaking bolts- the bolt fails, the torque specs are wrong, your torque wrench is not calibrated, or what normally happens in my case is I don't look at the specs and get a little crazy with the muscle.

by the way you might get lucky and be able to remove the HPOP reservior and retrieve the washer.
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Old 03-29-2007, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjbeggs
or what normally happens in my case is I don't look at the specs and get a little crazy with the muscle.
For those of us with small muscles we get crazy with leverage -
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Old 03-29-2007, 06:52 PM
racenitro racenitro is offline
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A 12 mm 10.9 bolt can only take a torque of 85 FT LBS. Somebody said 240 Ftlbs...better check closer...

The washer can be retrieved by removing the housing cover.

Have spent 4 hours and 150 miles trying o find a replacement bolt. No luck. Nw tomorrow is lost at a dily rate of $1500....It would have been cheaper to have the dealer do the job except for the stripped housing thread that I had to Helicoil.

I have wrenched for over 45 years. Former Fuel Dragster team owner/buillder mechanics teacher. This is not my first rodeo.

FOrd has a torque that exceeds the rating that bolt. I checked also..95 is 10 lbs above the spec for such bolt. What was the 160 FT LB reference.....?

There is NO apparent efect inthe bolt. No holes or prior fratures.

I am mostly glad that I don't have to pull the engine to retrieve parts. This impleproject hs cost me a ton...I will have to drive over 50 miles on way tomorrow t get a repalcement bolt. I am going to get several and see what the shear is. I can apply s much as I want and read the valus so I will definitely know what the torque is before I put in another.

Hard to believe that not a single Automotiv parts place carries anything harder tha an 8.8....All carry Grade 8 but only 8.8 in metric which is less than grade 5.

The procedure needs to be modified to impart two items. One, the wahse wil go nowhere if it is dropped and two the torque is much less than 160, 95 according to frd which I now don't trust kowing the std. spec
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Old 03-29-2007, 07:12 PM
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sneal41
Sir if you can excuse my ignorance...You state the torque spec is 85 ft lb, it broke at 70 lbs with a heli coil. Can you explain how this is in anyway Ducks fault? If all this driving is costing you soooo much money, have you thought about the United States Postal Service or FedEx or UPS? I use these services quite often in my line of work and they can deliver almost any number of bolts to your door. And finally who do you think you are? We are here to help each other with the understanding that WE are human. You, with over 45 years experience did not know or bother to look up the correct specs....shame on you. A public and formal apology would be in order.
Sorry to hear about your problem and good luck in correcting it.
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Old 03-29-2007, 07:26 PM
bkcowboss bkcowboss is offline
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Standard torque numbers which is what you quoted and shear numbers are two different specs, you better do your research...217 is the engineers sheer point of that particular diameter bolt with its grade of steel. That means that when it is new that is when it will break. The 85 lbs is the standard torque spec for that size bolt, that apples to oranges either way your bolt failed, quit blaming and whining it doesn't help
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Old 03-29-2007, 07:26 PM
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