injector o rings?
#1
injector o rings?
Ok i need to replace the o rings on the injectors, but none of the parts stores carry a seal kit or o rings for my model truck. I'm pretty sure they need to be changed, every other rubber piece that i took off the engine is original and was dry rotted so I am assuming they are too. Truck still won't start and when it does start it sputters like its not getting fuel when I know it is. I was told i might have air in the lines so i changed all of those, and still the same. I was then told to change the o rings but hae not had any luck finding them anywhere. Where do I get them? are they dealer only item?
#4
( return line kits/ injector install kit )
http://www.mwfi.com/dieselPage/ford_69.htm
http://www.mwfi.com/dieselPage/ford_73.htm
http://www.dieselpage.com/dlk.htm
Here is how to....
First disconnect injector cap nuts, "do not bend lines" but move them away enough to get the return line caps off as a complete set per side.
After removal of the complete return cap and lines sets, build new sets identical. To remove old orings use a dental or oring pick with a razor knife, do not mark the injector body. When installing orings use lots of grease and roll first one into top groove, then roll second over that to bottom groove. When installing the new lines and caps use grease inside the cap and on orings, place them on respective injectors and gently push straight down until it pops into place on the orings. Install the line capnuts 22ftlbs torque. There should be a small space between the return cap and line capnut when finished, any major leaks mean caps are not seated or orings are cut or line cap nut is not tight. I have done several sets and found bleeding 1-2 injectors at a time on opposite side the best. Tighten lines then place fuel pedal to floor and fast idle and timing advance on, crank for 15 seconds max, mine started after 4th injector was on line.
Note when cranking engine and bleeding there will only be a slight amount of fuel/bubbles seen, no major squirting gysers, that only happens with engine running at idle RPM.
http://www.mwfi.com/dieselPage/ford_69.htm
http://www.mwfi.com/dieselPage/ford_73.htm
http://www.dieselpage.com/dlk.htm
Here is how to....
First disconnect injector cap nuts, "do not bend lines" but move them away enough to get the return line caps off as a complete set per side.
After removal of the complete return cap and lines sets, build new sets identical. To remove old orings use a dental or oring pick with a razor knife, do not mark the injector body. When installing orings use lots of grease and roll first one into top groove, then roll second over that to bottom groove. When installing the new lines and caps use grease inside the cap and on orings, place them on respective injectors and gently push straight down until it pops into place on the orings. Install the line capnuts 22ftlbs torque. There should be a small space between the return cap and line capnut when finished, any major leaks mean caps are not seated or orings are cut or line cap nut is not tight. I have done several sets and found bleeding 1-2 injectors at a time on opposite side the best. Tighten lines then place fuel pedal to floor and fast idle and timing advance on, crank for 15 seconds max, mine started after 4th injector was on line.
Note when cranking engine and bleeding there will only be a slight amount of fuel/bubbles seen, no major squirting gysers, that only happens with engine running at idle RPM.
#5