I did a search here and found someone ("bearbronco") who posted a question about his truck. Mine's doing the exact same thing: I back up, hit the brakes, and CLUNK. drive forward hit the brakes, CLUNK. All coming from the passenger side, when I'm backing up and turning especially. After that, it won't do it anymore, I suppose until I back up again. The consensus was to change the radius arm bushings, which I'm gonna do this weekend, with energy suspension bushings. I was wondering if there are any other bushings, etc, that I should replace while I'm down there and have it all apart?
the tech at energy suspension mentioned axle pivot bushings.
I had the upper and lower ball joints replaced last week, and they NEEDED it!
Thanks for the help!!

Dan
1992 Bronco XLT, 5.0

 

You might as well do the Axle Pivot bushings...they are cheap. I just bought a set from Energy Suspension, so I can put them in when I do my radius arm bushings and ball joints.

 

I replaced all the bushings in the front end with Energy Suspension bushings, and what a PITA. To change them properly, you must remove the entire front axle to get to the bushings, both for the radius arm bushings and axle pivot bushings. After you get the axle pivot bushings out, you will notice a metal seal still left inside. That also needs to be removed, as there is a new one included with the bushings.

I managed to do all this under the truck without removing the front axles at all. I was able to lower each side of the axle with a floor jack, but made sure not to put stress on the driveshafts. Room was a little tight at times, but I got both axle pivot bushings and the passenger side ball joints done in a weekend. I did the radius arm bushings another weekend, also without removing the axles.

I found that the raduis arm brackets were bolted in place on the passenger side, and riveted in place on the driver's side. I got Grade 8 bolts for both sides, replaced the bolts on the passenger side, and ground off the rivets on the driver's side. Worked like a charm. The ride is much better now, but torqing down the radius arm bushings to spec seems a little much to me. That really compresses the bushings, and I feel it leaves little room for movement, but I did what the instructions said to do.

Good luck. If you have any Q's, I will try to answer them.

 

Thanks Aaron. I replaced the front brakes and rotors the other day, and I couldn't even budge the bolts that hold the radius arm to the axle. Ten years and some rust were just too much. Besides, I like the way you've mentioned doing it better anyway. I know for a fact that it won't be any more of a PITA just leaving axles be, and doing the bushings the way you mentioned. And I also noticed that on my passenger side, the radius arm bracket is bolted on, and riveted on the driver side. I have no idea why it's done this way, but then again, why would they make it so you've gotta pull the motor to drop the oil pan? I just figured that at some point, the previous owner of this truck drilled those rivets, but just bagged on the job half-way, and left the driver's side alone. I'm gonna drill the rivets on the driver side and replace them with a high property class bolt like you did. I do have a question, though. When you unbolted the bracket that holds the radius arm to the frame, were you able to then just raise the frame a little with a jack so as to pull the bracket off and the bushings? Also, how did you say you did the axle pivot bushings, because I have some from energy suspension that i'd like to get in there, but do it the same way you did. Thanks for the response!!

Dan
'92 XLT, 5.0