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I was finally back to work on my '49 F2 226 this weekend. I have the head off to replace a broken valve. I found that I have to intake valves that are stuck also. I tried lubricating them with Liquid Wrench and I have them free, but not moving freely. My question is, do I have to replace the guides, or is there something I can do like ream them? I don't want to pull the engine, and I know that tool for removing the guides is pretty long. Probably too long to use with the engine in the truck. Does anyone have some suggestions for me??? Thanks
Last edited by willyswrecking; 03-26-2007 at 12:09 PM.
Lubricate them with a bit of kerosene and they will come loose. For years after the second world war cars were brought out of storage with stuck valves and the old mechanics ran kerosene thru the carburators to free them. You knew when the activity was going on clouds of white smoke, but it worked.
If you have a valve that will shut after you give it a tap then it will start to work on it's own after you run it. Try some Berrymans Chemtool in it too once you get it running. We had the very same problem in a 51 F100. Didn't take long at all. Also we just finished a flathead in a 35 sedan that was full of rust and debris in the cylinders. We just needed it to run so we could move the car around on it's own. So we ran a hone through the cylinders real quick, got all of the valves working but one intake. It wouldn't always close on it's own, you had to give it one or two light taps and then it would shut. We figured it probably would free its self after we started it and ran it for awhile. It smoked and ran rough at first but after time it actually ran really nice. My point is that these motors are really tough. Get that valve lubed up as best you can like kotzy said, put it together and try it!
1996 F250 XLT Crew Cab Short Bed, 7.3L PS Auto Trans with 285/75 R16 A/Ts. 240,000 miles and no sign of stopping!
Tony Wildman 4 position TS chip
Stage 1 Injectors
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3" downpipe, Cat Delete, and 4" out the back
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