I have a 1997 f 150 4.2L truck, I,ve replaced the lower intake manifold gasket, which fixed the antifreeze blowing out the exaust but on my last oil change the engine oil was grey in color. I'm still getting moisture in the motor but my antifreeze level is good. Do i have head gasket problems or pvc valve problems?All levels are good & no check engine lights on. What is the problem?
hi, i would look to replacing the timing case (cover) gasket. when that fails the coolant can drop directly into the sump. due to the fact that you show no coolant loss it may also be that all the coolant was not flushed away when the lower gaskets were replaced, god no,s it gets in every oil galary and casting webbing. good luck bokker.
That's what I am thinking.
If I had your problem I would change my oil right after the work and short change it a couple more times more, like at 500 and then another 500 to get it all out.
It takes awhile and it's nasty stuff to have in your oil.
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2000 Explorer XLT
1998 Ranger Ex Cab Splash
1998 Ranger Ex Cab Style Side
1997 F-150 Reg cab
All 2wd, don't need 4wd.
When replacing your timing cover gasket, find a machine shop in your area that is able to resurface the timing cover to block mating surface. Found many of these to be way out.
This is the first post that showed up when I searched for "timing cover leaking". I have a coolant leak, loosing about an inch out of the reseviour about every 2 weeks roughly. After looking things over really good (because I just changed the water pump) it looks like the water pump is not leaking, instead some green around the timing cover gasket and also a small leak from a freeze plug. Anyhow, after searching, I discovered it isnt to uncommon that fluid leaks from the timing cover gasket. But a fellow here at work doesnt understand how coolant could leak from the timing cover, says there shouldnt be fluid in there. I'm just curious is there some kind of diagram somewhere that shows coolant passages or some reason why coolant would be leaking from the timing cover?
This is in my '99 f150, and I know the 97's were the ones with all the problems. So far I havent noticed any coolant getting into the motor but I'll have to keep a close eye on the oil. it appears to be external leak so far. maybe this is a good time to finally get rid of my rig. I hate to let her go. I'd fix it myself but it looks pretty involved, how many have done this?
I would keep checking to see if any moisture in your oil just in case.
Assuming you have a 4.2....(you didn't say).
The timing cover has the passages for the coolant to get from the block to the water pump (it very much resembles the 70s-80s Buick design).
The coolant can leak internally or externally.
Long story but I have the motor (4.2) out of my 97 right now, most likely was the intake gasket leaking cooant on mine but I changed the timing gasket (and all others) while I was at it.
.
__________________
2000 Explorer XLT
1998 Ranger Ex Cab Splash
1998 Ranger Ex Cab Style Side
1997 F-150 Reg cab
All 2wd, don't need 4wd.
Thanks for the info, thats what I was looking for. Yeah its a 4.2 sorry, I'm not that familiar with its finer details, I'm a bit more knowledgable on the ol 351M's lol. Seems like an accident waiting to happen to me, not sure what the point of routing the water though the timing cover is. Oh well. I'll definately keep my eye on the oil.
For the dreaded hydrolock that will bend a rod (or whatever other fate it causes) thats only when the water leaks into the cylinder right? I mean it bends since it cant compress water like it can air/fuel. But what does coolant in the oil cause? Will it wreck the motor as fast or just wear bearings out due to less lube? I'll definately be checking it regularly, but I can figure it wont be daily. Just how invlolved is changing the timing cover on a 4.2? I've done a bit of searching the forums but found a lot of talk about it but not much detail.
hi, the contamination caused the lower end bearings to fail on my 1997 4,2. when stripped the bearing material had gone completly and thats what gave oil light to come on at tick over, lack of oil.
if you do the timming cover gasket get the special tool to set-up the sensor correctly as this has to be spot-on. its only cheep to buy. ok.
Hi guys, my timing chain cover gasket failed and dumped the coolant into the engine as many have described here. I have a remaned long block in the garage now waiting to be dropped in there. Just have to finish bolting stuff on the block. I have a couple of questions if somebody has time.
Is there a better way to seal up the timing chain cover to the block? I understand that the lower intake manifold gasket issue was fixed with a better gasket. The timng chain cover gasket that came with the new engine is a simple paper gasket. Is there something else available that would work better?
Bokker, is there any way around buying that Cam Sensor Alignment tool? The only place I can find it in my area is a NAPA and they want $40 for a tool I'm only ever going to use one time.
I bought a Fel-Pro set for mine and the TC gasket was metal.
You can change your cam sensor without the tool.
Roll your engine around to #1 TDC and take the sensor off (off of the sensor drive, can't think of the proper name). Now you can mark the internal part to where it is (use a sharpie). Then mark the outer part where it meets the TC (I suggest a small chisel mark on both surfaces so it won't get rubbed off).
Just like a distributor it will turn as it is removed and installed but if it all lines up when re-installed it should be as close as you can get it.
Also I would put it in before putting the oil pump on so you don't have to worry about engaging it too.
.
__________________
2000 Explorer XLT
1998 Ranger Ex Cab Splash
1998 Ranger Ex Cab Style Side
1997 F-150 Reg cab
All 2wd, don't need 4wd.
hi, i also used felpro gaskets and the gasket was gasket paper. follow the budman-mo advice its spot on. i had taken the sensor out without marking correctly,hence the tool. bokker.
Buddmo, it sounds like you are describing a procedure that must be followed before you remove the shaft/sensor from the old engine. I've already done that. So I guess that means I can't do that? Let me go back and reread your post. It seems that with the new engine at TDC, there should be a way to get everything to line up without this stupid tool. I'll go reread it again.
