When u flip the 5 way over and plug it back in then turn your headlights on that puts power to the solenoid on the mastercylinder that keeps the brakes from locking up. Next time u look at a 5 way flat and 4 way flat hold them next to each other u will see what I mean.

I wouldn't recommend doing this as permanent just something I used to do for people who were renting or borrowing trailers and only had a 4 way.
If u got a 7 way u just buy an adapter.

 

HOUSTON - WE HAVE A PROBLEM....

The diagrams are gone.

 

Looked at the Eternabond site, looks like good stuff to me... Just had a skylight put in a year ago and the Dicor lap sealant has already begun to fail by cracking. Lap sealant was dealer installed I might add...

 

Here is something that I came up with a while back.
RECLINER HOLD DOWNS

 

THAT one is ingenious in it's rare simplicity, low-cost installation and parts, and prospect of long lasting service. It is also the best thing I have ever seen as far as immobilising chairs in transit

Well concieved and well done. I imagine if countersunk padeyes are used it only takes a few minutes with a small wood chisel through a slit in the carpet to make them level with the floor - but the carpet and padding and the right padeyes should eliminate the need.

 

You don't need to cut out the carpeting at all. Just use screws long enough to reach down through the carpet padding and tighten it all down.
The padding will compress down to the point where the loops are level with the carpet.

 

But where do you get the ground connection - the only ground would be through the hitch & ball.

 

For any Rv here is a reason to have a surge suppressor if you don't already have one. I have a hardwired version so it won't get stolen.
YouTube - Why you should use a surge protector on your RV power Also another nice video on rv electrical systems. Especially part 1. having to do with surge protection.
Videos

 

Here ia a link to the tech Library on an rv site that I am a member of, a lot contains info fro Motorhomes but a lot also can pertain to most rv's.
RV Tech Library - Table of Contents

 

Reps to you Greywolf. Thanks for the help.

 

My tip deals with the comode... It is a pain to keep the tank clean, but with this procedure I use, and have been telling people for a few years now, it works great...

I put a bag of ice down my commode, when I am done camping, but on my way to the dump station. The ice breaks up the clumps that are stuck, and melts into water for easy dumping... I also use this, at the end of the year, I put a bag of ice down the commode, then drive to the camper place, do give my tank a final dump... It reduces alot of the odor, when dumping, and when flushing...and I dont need a stick to clear any clogs, as they are eliminated...

 

ICING THE TANK is an excellent goody that has worked for many years. It's needed when people allow a trickle to run out instead of letting the tank fill and WOOSH it all out at once. Typically an RV is used as a domicile, and the user takes the easy way out - but you can't just leave the slice valve open all the time. That is the usual cause of "SOLID BUILD UP". It doesn't work the same as an installed house sewage system with three or four inch piping down to the main - the flat bottom of the tank allows things to come to rest, and they build up over time. The flush system on RV toilets does not use the same amount of water as a house toilet either - it is a bare trickle compared to the five gallons or so that rush down the pipes in a home system. (You can only carry so much water. The idea is not to waste it if you can help it)

Consequently, stuff piles up where it lays (to put it as delicately as possible) and will build up over time. You don't want that! Eventually there is a mound in there that has to be broken up by some means. Think in terms of dirt, or mud...

The tank needs to be scrubbed by SOMETHING, and Ice works well, because while it is hard as gravel at first - it will eventually melt. So nothing at all is left behind. It also has much the same "SPECIFIC GRAVITY" as water, so it doesn't just float on top of the water, it will scrub the bottom too.

I once found an old canteen and was told to fill it with nuts and bolts and water, then shake it as much as I could stand to get all of the old rust out. "ICING THE TANK" is the same principle....

 

Sorry, I've been lax! Thanks for all the new tech tips, guys. I've added your links to the main index post. All of the newly added tech tips have a little white paper icon under the title, like you see in mine above.

 

Great write-up by blueovelboy on adding TBC to non-equipped trucks....2009+ F-150.

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - Factory TBC install

 

Voltage and Amperage reading from Ford IBC by Steve - RV_Tech

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - Voltage & Amperage Reading from Ford IBC