Removing the rear seat
#1
Removing the rear seat
I decided to take my seat back off today just to see what was back there and figured I’d take some pictures for those people who need to get their door combination. So…
How to remove that pesky rear seat back on a supercrew without the sub. I don’t believe the sub will be in the way, but I cant be sure. Also, I’ll probably use the incorrect name for a few things, but you’ll just have to deal with it. Be sure to click for pictures.
What you need:
Long flat head screwdriver
10mm socket or nut driver
And should you decide to above and beyond, a T50 Torx.
1. Take your flat head screwdriver and pry the plastic cap off of the top of the middle seat belt retractor cover.
2. Use a 10mm socket to remove the two bolts. Then pull up on the cover and let it hang on the belt.
3. The seat back has four anchor points for child seats, the retaining clips are behind the outer anchors on each side. Place your screwdriver on the outer edge of the vertical piece of metal just above the anchor point. Be careful not to damage your seat. (shown with seat lifted for clarity)
4. Push your screw driver straight back until you encounter the round seat frame, you must then get your screwdriver above this frame by working it upwards.
5. Once you’ve gotten above the frame you’ll immediately encounter a metal tab with a square hole, feel around until you’re certain that you’ve got the end of the screwdriver in this hole.
6. In order to release the tab you must push down on the seat back while pushing in on the screwdriver. Just pushing down on the seat back probably won’t be enough, you’ve got to put all your weight into it. You’ll know you’ve got it when you notice the screwdriver has gone in more.
7. While holding the screwdriver in place pull up on the seat to release it. It’s helpful to place a phone book or something similar under the cushion to keep it from clipping back in to place while you repeat the process on the other side.
8. Repeat for the other side and lay the seat back down on the seat bottom.
9. Remove the 3 retaining push pins on the driver side by grabbing the outer edge and working them out. Notice the bottom one is smaller then the top two. (Yellow Boxes)
10. You should now be able to work the insulating cover back by working it out from under the pillar trim and driver side top child seat anchor.
11. Once you’ve got that pealed away you’ll see a black module. Your door code is printed in large numbers on this label. (Yellow square)
Should you decide to remove the pillar trim to make life a little easier when working with the insulating cover:
12 Use your screwdriver to pry the plastic cover off of the seatbelt shoulder mount.
13. Use a T50 Torx to remove the bolt.
14. Use your screwdriver to remove the plastic trim cover off of the top retaining bolt, near the ceiling, and use a 10mm socket to remove it.
15 Remove the plastic diamond plate sill protector by grabbing the outer edge and pulling up.
16 pull the pillar trim inwards to remove it.
To install reverse the process, making sure you keep the weather striping on the outside of the trim when reinstalling.
To get the seat back back on, align the top plastic hooks with their holes, then push back and down. Make sure it’s in place by pulling on each corner to verify it’s firmly in place.
How to remove that pesky rear seat back on a supercrew without the sub. I don’t believe the sub will be in the way, but I cant be sure. Also, I’ll probably use the incorrect name for a few things, but you’ll just have to deal with it. Be sure to click for pictures.
What you need:
Long flat head screwdriver
10mm socket or nut driver
And should you decide to above and beyond, a T50 Torx.
1. Take your flat head screwdriver and pry the plastic cap off of the top of the middle seat belt retractor cover.
2. Use a 10mm socket to remove the two bolts. Then pull up on the cover and let it hang on the belt.
3. The seat back has four anchor points for child seats, the retaining clips are behind the outer anchors on each side. Place your screwdriver on the outer edge of the vertical piece of metal just above the anchor point. Be careful not to damage your seat. (shown with seat lifted for clarity)
4. Push your screw driver straight back until you encounter the round seat frame, you must then get your screwdriver above this frame by working it upwards.
5. Once you’ve gotten above the frame you’ll immediately encounter a metal tab with a square hole, feel around until you’re certain that you’ve got the end of the screwdriver in this hole.
6. In order to release the tab you must push down on the seat back while pushing in on the screwdriver. Just pushing down on the seat back probably won’t be enough, you’ve got to put all your weight into it. You’ll know you’ve got it when you notice the screwdriver has gone in more.
7. While holding the screwdriver in place pull up on the seat to release it. It’s helpful to place a phone book or something similar under the cushion to keep it from clipping back in to place while you repeat the process on the other side.
8. Repeat for the other side and lay the seat back down on the seat bottom.
9. Remove the 3 retaining push pins on the driver side by grabbing the outer edge and working them out. Notice the bottom one is smaller then the top two. (Yellow Boxes)
10. You should now be able to work the insulating cover back by working it out from under the pillar trim and driver side top child seat anchor.
11. Once you’ve got that pealed away you’ll see a black module. Your door code is printed in large numbers on this label. (Yellow square)
Should you decide to remove the pillar trim to make life a little easier when working with the insulating cover:
12 Use your screwdriver to pry the plastic cover off of the seatbelt shoulder mount.
13. Use a T50 Torx to remove the bolt.
14. Use your screwdriver to remove the plastic trim cover off of the top retaining bolt, near the ceiling, and use a 10mm socket to remove it.
15 Remove the plastic diamond plate sill protector by grabbing the outer edge and pulling up.
16 pull the pillar trim inwards to remove it.
To install reverse the process, making sure you keep the weather striping on the outside of the trim when reinstalling.
To get the seat back back on, align the top plastic hooks with their holes, then push back and down. Make sure it’s in place by pulling on each corner to verify it’s firmly in place.
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#9
I dynamated the rear wall and installed my seat covers. Don't have the power slider, but the wire and plug was there(maybe for the rear defroster?-don't have that either, but have the heated mirrors)and bolt holes for the slider. No power at the wire, it was taped with some felt to keep it from rattling. Not alot of room as even the black box left a imprint on the foam. Nice places to mount an amp or two, need to be thin. There are two vents down there so maybe a passive heat raditor setup would work. Maybe next project. Is there a fuse to get power to that wire? Probably need a switch too...
#10
I have the power slider, but I did find the plug for a sub, rear defrost and satellite radio.. which was a little weird considering I have satellite radio. I think it was an alternative mounting place for it if you had the nav unit.
To get power to those wires you’d probably need to jumper the connection where the switch would have been, if you don’t have the sub there is a nice 25amp power source there, but I wouldn’t run anything but a very small amp on it.
To get power to those wires you’d probably need to jumper the connection where the switch would have been, if you don’t have the sub there is a nice 25amp power source there, but I wouldn’t run anything but a very small amp on it.
Last edited by screwy; 03-25-2007 at 12:10 PM.
#11
Originally Posted by canstacker
I dynamated the rear wall and installed my seat covers. Don't have the power slider, but the wire and plug was there(maybe for the rear defroster?-don't have that either, but have the heated mirrors)and bolt holes for the slider. No power at the wire, it was taped with some felt to keep it from rattling. Not alot of room as even the black box left a imprint on the foam. Nice places to mount an amp or two, need to be thin. There are two vents down there so maybe a passive heat raditor setup would work. Maybe next project. Is there a fuse to get power to that wire? Probably need a switch too...
There has been previous discussions on what those two vents are. They are pressure vents and they open outwards whenever the doors are closed to relieve pressure inside the cab
#13
Originally Posted by pukemon
i would assume these instructions would work for a scab? appreciate the work screwy.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...2006_F150.html
#14