son, you dont want mono! But, now Im not so sure. I'm getting close to ordering the parts to rebuild my front end (king pins, etc.) and I'm thinking more and more about springs now. I had planned on reverse eye MLO springs, and yanking every other leaf......... now I find myself second guessing and "just supposing".
Reverse eye MLO's drop your truck ~ 3". The mono's drop it ~5". I'm thinking, its not alot more money to have BRAND NEW front springs.
Anyone here running the newer style mono's? What do you think of them?

Its only 120 bucks more for new mono's, and I dont have to spend a day tearing them down and putting them back together..............

 

First off, the reverse eye will not drop it 3 inches nor will the mono springs give you 5" Reality is about a 1" drop with reverse eye and maybe 2 with the mono. I'm running the reverse eye in the front and like them. The mono spring, I'm told is not very good because it's only one main spring and tends to be bouncey or loose it's tension in time. The mono spring is also slightly thicker than the normal main springs. The reverse eye, still allows you to run leaf springs and allows for adjustment by removing leafs. I currently have 4 in the front. I had 3 but it wasn't enough to prevent the front from bottoming out. Another option, that I'm going with is installing a drop axle. That will get the 3 inches your looking for and you can keep your leafs the way they are or remove some for an even lower stance.

 

I have them on the front of my truck but haven't driven on them yet

After I bought mine I read a lot of posts saying they are not good (too soft, can break)

If mine are too soft I will add a sway bar
The breaking appears to happen on the rear where the axle winds up on acceleration and braking

If I was making the decision now I would prefer a dropped axle

 

Must type faster

I am happy the honourable imlowr2 concurs with my opinion

 

Todd -

I have run standard eye monos on the rear of my 56 for about three years, but MII IFS in the front. When first installed, the monos were "tight" and bouncy. The drop was not as advertised. Speed bumps were death. After driving on them a while, they loosened up, settled down and now are not too bad for ride quality. That bothers me. I don't like the idea that a solid spring "changes" over time. Does it stop changing when it breaks? I also had to add traction bars because the wheel hop was atrocious!

I will be changing out my rear monos for reverse-eye regular springs and drop every other leaf to reproduce the drop I now have. I have Gabriel Hi-Jacker shocks to help when it's really loaded up. I will be hauling stuff and towing and I think a progressive rate spring makes more sense for that kind of use.

I recommend the reverse-eye standard spring pack and a drop axle. That will give you stance and maintain suspension capacity/travel. That way, you can play with the number of leafs to dial in the drop. With the monos, you get what you get. No adjustment.

 

Not really what I was hoping to hear. I was hoping to stay away from the Uber expensive drop axle. Going to have to work some O.T.
Thanks for the input guys!

 

It's a whole lot of work, but you can flip the front axle over the springs and get 4-6".
CHAZ

 

I've never seen this done on the front? IMHO, that would be worse, you'd really have no suspension travel between the frame and axle. You may be right when you say "a whole lot of work".

 

I'd also be concerned about tie rod interference, and bump steer from the drag link going uphill.

 

CHAZ

 

I see what you did and it looks nice, however there isn't much clearance between the frame and the top plate of the axle mount. I don't see a rubber snubber mounted either. Are you sure you'll have enough clearance. You don't have the engine installed in yet either. Let us know if it works. Nice concept.

 

No, I am pretty sure it isn't going to work the way it sits right now. I am considering either adding coil over shocks, or c notching the frame where it goes over the axle. It is REALLY low right now so I am leaning towards the coil overs.
CHAZ