If you don't have the 100 dollars to do the body lift right you shouldn't be modifying your truck in the first place.

 

So, when doing a hockey puck lift, how do you install the steel insert down the middle of the puck that the bolt slides through?

I know it can be very hard to do and getting it in straight when making your own poly mounts.

 

Take however many pucks you wanted to use for the lift and glue them together, then take a drill bit and punch out the spot for your bolt. Hows that hard to lineup?

Nick

 

It's not hard, just stupid.
Maybe just one puck, but don't stack them what ever you do.
It's easier to just buy the stupid body lift kit.

 

i'm sorry to hear you live in the same state i do!

-cutts-

 

by the time you go and buy new grade 8 bolts and lock washers and nuts or nyloc nuts you might as well buy a body lift. My friend did a body lift out of 1&1/2" steel pipe and made a 4" body lift and i was in the hardware store when he bought all those bolts and hardware and after all the time he spent and trips to get parts he could of bought a body lift kit that had all that plus the brackets for everything shipped to the house!!! just somthin to think about. but like someone said for somthing that will be towed to the trail, sure rig up what you want. its kinda like how people back in the 80's used to stack frames together to get lift, and heck look at the new (sorry to bring it up on this site) chev* HD 1/2 and 3/4 tons trucks, all they did was make the frame taller, just like stacking frames!!!! but on the trail ONLY a bodylift helps people that are not gifted with extra money run some bigger tires for more clearance with out lifting higher and spending tons on new high angle custom driveshafts and putting steering in such a high angle to need custom work on that too, but definetely NOT on public streets because that puts more people in danger than just crawlin' around in the woods or rocks.

 

sorry

so when I put my truck back together I want to put a 1' or 1 1/2' body lift on it, not so much for the lift but for more clearance around gas tanks, wiring it, more room for a hidden winch front and rear more clearance for the tranny and trans. So I was wondering what I should use to do it, I thought I could buy a body lift then cut the blocks in half? or just get some aluminium and make my own, Or get some thick plastic of some kind, there is a plastic company near here that has all kinds of plastic.


I like the aluminum Idea best, but have no clue how expensive it is, since I have to have 16 of whatever I use.

Any ideas?

 

Aluminum stock will work, but you may get squeaking from them. You used to be able to choose aluminum or graphite when buying a body lift; I'd never use a body lift myself so I haven't checked and don't know if aluminum kits are still available.

If you have an older truck, replace your worn-out rubber body mounts with poly mounts while you have everything apart, and you may even notice that your bed now lines up with your cab. Or hey, just do it anyways no matter how old your truck is. Poly is not affected by petroleum and the elements like rubber is.

About hockey-puck body lifts: Don't do it. The pucks will compress over time, which means your bolts will loosen and you'll have to keep on top of them. I think it's even illegal in my area, or at the very least you won't pass an inspection.

About trail-only rigs: Shouldn't trail-only rigs be built to a higher standard than street rigs? If you're on the street and your junk breaks, you can call a tow truck. If you're on the trail and your junk breaks, you're stranded or dead.

 

some peoples junk is literally junk...while other peoples only looks like junk.
If I had an old bagger that I didnt want to spend I dime on I would ghetto fab as much crap together as possible to fit some big tires, pop it in 4lo and go have fun. You get what you pay for, do what you can with what youve got, but most importantly make sure its only your life youre ever putting at risk.

 

A hockey puck is fine, but don't stack them. And as stated above, they DO deteriorate. For another inch or two I have seen people use boat roller material cut to length. This also compresses.

Just remember to check the bolts and make sure they are tight from time to time.


I will never understand why body lifts get such a bad rap. The only true way to lift your entire truck is to sit it upon bigger tires, both suspension and body lifts are designed to enable this. Suspension lifts increase travel and body lifts are cheap and easy. Use whichever works best for you and enjoy your truck.

 

That is paramount, but almost impossible. You often have others who are passenger or bystanders when you wheel, or people in other vehicles, not to mention how many lives you put in danger when you drive a pieced together piece of **** on the road.

Don't use pucks, its a really dumb idea.

 

They are cheap, but not easy.
You have to cut your shift linkage, and weld in extension, find a way to remount the radiator, get new longer steering shaft, and you have to have some way to lift your whole body to have room to fit the body lift in.... I don't have equipment to do that at my house, and I'm sure their aren't many people out there that do.
That's why everyone says they suck, and they don't give you any better flex or anything.

 

no yo dont, only when you go 3" on an auto...even then its hit and miss.

 

varies from truck to truck... some manuals have to be extended as well.

Regardless, they are a pita to install

 

1. Linkage usually is fine unlesss you are going for a very tall body lift.
2. Cut the bottom out of the radiator surround, it will still cool your truck just fine.
3. In every case of body lifting I have done, the steering linkage stretched out far enough with out modifying anything. Lowering the firewall end of the column will help if the shaft can't be stretched.
4. loosen all mounting bolts but only remove one side at a time. only lift one side of the body at a time. Use a bottle jack with a small piece of wood to spread the load on the sheet metal side.


You didn't mention the hard brake lines needing to be replaced with longer ones. Not true, but it IS a standard anti- body lift statement. The loops will stretch out just fine.

Also on a standard trans truck, often the shifter won't have enough throw room in the hole in the floor. Get out the tin snips.



Too easy.