Ok i can do that. I have a question on the glow plug problem....... So you want me to run a ground from the battery to each glow plug?

 

no.....just to the black ground wire from the controller

 

okay well today i had some free time after i changed my fuel filter and my volt meter was right there and i have been reading some of this topic so i said i try it out. heres my results this is at opertaing temp after a nice long ride numbers are from idle.
1= 11.6
2= 12.0
3= 13.4
4= 15.0
5= 13.6
6= 14.8
7= 12.4
8= 13.9
pass drivers
side side

 

Comment and update. I would like to thank everyone that has taken the time to post their readings and I hope many more people will report their's.......................so far, with the readings posted and my own readings the 7.3 is getting more and more predictable of what can be achieved................I am doing my engine just as I think most people would be doing theirs so I can share the basic same experience as everybody else............I have done the second timing change and I am now at objective #3 (50% decrease in range.........the two timing changes has resulted in some very good results...........a small increase in fuel mileage ((have not check it for the second change yet)).......the engine now starts much better..........I have gone from a "smoking train" to being able to go from a rolling start in second gear with petal to the metal all the way into fifth with a very small smoke trail........the engine is getting very responsive, seat of the pants power levels are increasing...............

I have reached a point that I could stop.........I now have a very respectable running engine in comparison to 95 % of other diesel trucks................but, my readings are telling me I still have a huge amount of improvements still available..............

My next step will be to fix a set of Used injectors.......(most likely this will cut my reading over 50% from the present levels)

keep the reports coming...............

crossbones

 

Ironwoodsmith........it is really simple.....I use the glow plug readings to give me a relationship of the temperature in the cylinder at the glow plug............most people think that the glow plugs only job is to start the engine, but in fact they are a Major factor in a more complete combustion after the engine is hot and running..........

Here is where it gets a little tricky to understand.........the glow plug reading are a indicator of the temperature in the cylinder in three ways...........
first...... it tells us a relationship of the temperature transfer efficiency during the combustion stroke or power stroke........

second...... it tells us a relationship of the temperature of raw burning fuel left over from the power stroke................there is absolutely no power or fuel economy in this wasted heat.......it is going out the exhaust................

now, back to the power stroke.....in order to have a more complete combustion during the power stroke, we need Efficient Heat Transfer from every thing in the cylinder (including the glow plug) into the raw fuel charge in order for it to go through the chemical and element change into what really burns efficiently................the higher the efficiency of this heat transfer, the cooler the glow plug will be in a running engine during the power stroke..................................as the efficiency of the heat transfer increases during the power stroke,,,,,less and less raw fuel is burning as wasted heat going out the exhaust...........

now the third way, if all of the above just so happens at the correct crank shaft rotation (timing), then even More Heat is turned into mechanical energy........the more heat turned into mechanical energy the cooler the glow plug readings.......................it's all a simple circle of heat transfer efficiency.................

so, any change that you make to your engine, fresh air intake, bigger exhaust , turn up the IP, different injectors, timing change, fuel additives......you name it.........if it is a positive change, the glow plug readings will go down, if its negative they will go up...........simple as that......

I have tried to keep the above understandable, it is not complete..............

crossbones

 

fonefiddy.........it has slipped well over 20°..........I am now relying Completely on the glow plug readings..........the timing light is of no value unless I pull a head and get top dead center or we figure a way to find it externally...........even if that is done....the final tuning I would still rely Completely on the method.......................

crossbones

 

WOW! over 20 degree's. That's amazing, considering that all timing measurements rely on the dampner being accurate.

 

not all my friend

even if it was not slipped......factory tolerance is most likely 2°+-, then add some wear from the gears........a measurement with a timing light is just a beginning point on that one cylinder......it tells you nothing about the other 7..........................

crossbones

 

All things being equal (whose to say they really are?) If the #1 is timed properly, shouldn't the other 7 fall into place?

 

the pop off pressure setting is the final timing control...................

crossbones

 

Crossbones I believe i have my glow plug problem fixed.... hopefully. My truck has been running 100% better, or the way it is supposed to run. I have only started it once since i did what you told me to do with the ground and it started right up..

Thanks for the help....

I have not been able to weigh my truck maybe today. For the gas mileage readings before i was getting around 15 or so. My dad said when he first bought the truck it was getting around 18mpg. I wanting to get around 20mpg if that is possible. I am sure with the injector change i will be getting close to 18mpg. My RA ratio is 4.10 gearing. It runs pretty high rpm cruising at 75mph on the high way..... I have installed my tachometer but i am having problems getting the setting right for the readings. It reads off from the alternator from a signal from the stator. My problem now is that it climbs in rpm way to fast and goes way to high. It says it idles at 700 rpm and when i am in full throttle acceleration it goes all the way to 3200 rpm before it shifts. I am ont sure if this is right.... the equation to find the (#of engine pluses/revs) gives me a number and i plug the numbers it tells me into the back of the tach. The equation is....

(Diameter of the Crank Pulley (inches) / Diameter of Alternator Pulley(inch)) x (number of alternator poles / 2)

I was told by an alternator store that they thought mine had 6..... So i did the equation and when i started my truck up it idled at 1500 rpm. Finally i fooled around and got it to go to 700 rpm. If you know any info on the number of alt. poles that would help. Or if you know if diesels with automatic transmission jump high in rpm when you hit the accelerator? Sorry for going off topic but i have posted this under another topic and no one seemed to be able to help..... Thanks i will try and get some more info down for you.

 

Also i was wonder what you guys were talking about earlier in the thread when ford did a 8.5 degree advance. Was that on the cam or the ip. I have replaced my ip about 3 months ago and when my dad and i re-installed we set the dot on thet cam and the ip dead even with each other. Is that where it should be. I know with a timing change i could decrease the mv readings... but that will come soon enough.

Thanks

 

Hello. I hope everyone had a nice Easter......
turboman.....the 8.5° BTDC mentioned is dynamic timing Ford recommends for the 7.3 at 2000 rpm's using a timing light...............please believe me in saying you are already miles ahead of using a timing light to set the timing at a optimum setting ............I do not see a need at this point to change the IP timing at all.........................we will work with other things that have the net effect of a timing change...............I need the following information:

1..Top and lower hose temperature after the engine is hot..........
2...Have you changed the air cleaner housing, air filter, snorkel or position of the air inlet in any way from factory....
3. Have you change the exhaust in any way from factory..............
4. Have you changed the fuel return system in any way...........
5. Are you using any kind of additive to the fuel.........
6. If you are using a fuel additive, for the amount you are using, what is the cetane value increase.....
7. At any time have you ever heard a "rush of air sound" when removing the fuel cap
8. Have you pressure tested the radiator cap and coolant system........
9. Have you added a anti cavatation chemical to the coolant system......
10. Does your fuel filter light work in the dash and or have you tested the fuel pressure at the filter.....

As you report these answers, please report your observations of how the engine is now running, (smoke level, power, fuel mileage,,,,, anything you feel is different than before..........good or bad)

please edit your signature with all the info on your truck as well as the so far changes with beginning readings and results of the changes to your readings.........

crossbones

 

I'm pretty sure crossbones is cleaning and setting the pop pressure on a set of injectors now and should be back with some good info.

 

Sorry i guess school is a killer. I have been driving my truck for about a week and a half with new injectors and i can tell that i am getting some really good gas mileage. I am not to empty yet so i can not give any info on the exact mileage but i am thinking it is around 18mpg. Ill try and get some more info later in the week.