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Waste Veg Oil with 20% Kerosene and 5% Gasoline along with a dose of Diesel Kleen Power Service and a couple ounces of Xylol and Naptha per 40 Gallons. For me, it gets the viscosity right, I don't deal with the chemicals required for Bio-Diesel and I don't have to do mods on the truck or car to run it.
davE350
Quote:
Originally Posted by adambomb
not in my powerstrokes, for them i use biodiesel. but i do run 100% veggie oil in my converted 83 mercedes 300td.
What system are you using for the veggie oil? Do you make your own biodiesel?
my mercedes has a basic single tank lovecraft veggie oil conversion. it can run on veggie oil, biodiesel, diesel, or any combo of the 3. i have made test batches of bio before but now get commercial bio from a distributor delivered to my house.
__________________ 2011 Escape Limited v6 (Loaded) ESP 7yr/65k and Full Ford Maintenance Plan
2005 F350 6.0 (modded) ~450rwhp/900+ft/lb tq
1999 F350 7.3 (normal mods + 13" King Suspension on 40's)
1998 F150 (basic mods + 7" Suspension on 35's/Prerunner fiberglass and skidplace)
1994 Bronco (normal mods + 9" Coil Suspension on 35's)
lovecrafts site is, lovecraftbiofuels.com. I am waiting to see how the veggie conversion goes in my old mercedes before i do it to my F350. They were converting a F250 w/ 7.3l when I was in there. So far it's been going very well, besides the expected plugging fuel filters. There system is very basic, it uses the stock fuel tank and adds a booster fuel pump, heat exchanger, heated fuel filter bowl, and they change out your fuel lines to veggie resistant sysnthetic rubber.
Check out the Bio Diesel/ Alternative Fuels Fourm just a couple clicks down from this one . That forum has tons of great information and some very knowledgeable and experienced posters.
__________________ 2011 Escape Limited v6 (Loaded) ESP 7yr/65k and Full Ford Maintenance Plan
2005 F350 6.0 (modded) ~450rwhp/900+ft/lb tq
1999 F350 7.3 (normal mods + 13" King Suspension on 40's)
1998 F150 (basic mods + 7" Suspension on 35's/Prerunner fiberglass and skidplace)
1994 Bronco (normal mods + 9" Coil Suspension on 35's)
lovecrafts site is, lovecraftbiofuels.com. I am waiting to see how the veggie conversion goes in my old mercedes before i do it to my F350. They were converting a F250 w/ 7.3l when I was in there. So far it's been going very well, besides the expected plugging fuel filters. There system is very basic, it uses the stock fuel tank and adds a booster fuel pump, heat exchanger, heated fuel filter bowl, and they change out your fuel lines to veggie resistant sysnthetic rubber.
Check out the Bio Diesel/ Alternative Fuels Fourm just a couple clicks down from this one . That forum has tons of great information and some very knowledgeable and experienced posters.
I did a google on the site, thanks for the address, it's unfortunate that they are located a two or three drive from me.
I will scan through the Bio diesel treads more carefully. Thanks for your replies.
I could link you to pages and pages of just links. It is generally agreed that one of the most important things about running a veg based fuel is getting the viscosity right. By doing so it places less strain on the pumps and flow/atomizes correctly through the injectors.
There are three basic ways to adjust viscosity. Cause a chemical reaction as is the case with biodiesel, heat the straight veg oil and the heat will thin it out, or blend the veg oil with a thinner to lower the viscosity.
I choose the latter. With relying on heat to thin the WVO, a single tank system is not practical. There is no way you will have the oil at 160* at start up. The engine will have to be running for at least 5-10 minutes or more to get up to 160*. During that time the WVO is not your vehicles friend. By thinning my fuel is already at a lower viscosity when cold.
I could go on all day. In short, it works for me. I'm tired of typing but if you would like feel free to PM me and I'll send you my telephone number. Don't worry, I'm not selling anything.
just to let you know i wasn't trying to say what i have is good, i was just responding to the thread and saying what i have. I think a 2 tank system is better because you can purge the system, and have diesel or biodiesel to use at start up. I went with my single tank conversion because it seems very basic and easy to use. Maybe im lucky because I live in Southern California so it doesn't get that cold.
__________________ 2011 Escape Limited v6 (Loaded) ESP 7yr/65k and Full Ford Maintenance Plan
2005 F350 6.0 (modded) ~450rwhp/900+ft/lb tq
1999 F350 7.3 (normal mods + 13" King Suspension on 40's)
1998 F150 (basic mods + 7" Suspension on 35's/Prerunner fiberglass and skidplace)
1994 Bronco (normal mods + 9" Coil Suspension on 35's)
This thread is better off in the Bio/Alternative fuel section.
__________________
Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, Titan 520's, CCV, EGR, CAT.
2000 VW Passat 1.8t Tiptronic. ZZOOOOOMMMM!!!
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice.
You cannot explain or explain away the power of God.
I've got the Greasecar kit on my Rabbit. Haven't had a problem yet...
I start it on ~9:1 diesel:veg oil, then run straight veg after it warms up, once in a while I get a tank of b100. I'd run b100 for start up more often, but it isn't available close enough to me.
I have a Plant Drive kit in my 87 f250. Components: Hot Fox pickup tube in auxillary tank, Vormax water separator/ filter unit, Hot Plate heat exchanger, Vegtherm 30A electric heater. Everything works great, even in 20 degree winter driving. Check out www.Plantdrive.com.
Mike
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