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Is F-150 Still King?
 
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  #196 (permalink)  
Old 06-28-2008, 06:30 PM
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rlh68050 rlh68050 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Genesis View Post
Sorry if these questions are redundant but I think they're pretty simple. Will an exhaust leak be the first sign my manifold bolts are breaking. From what guys are saying it seems you need to have at least a couple of bad ones before it becomes a problem. My 03 V-10 has only 31K but I realize it's probably more of an age issue versus miles. Are they easily visible from underneath(I have an E-350). When they go I assume it's not covered by warranty. I have ext. for another 2 years. I'm mechanical but I know this job would be over my head so I'm just trying to prepare myself for the future. Thanks for any info.
Yes, it takes a few to be broken on one side before you would notice a leak (ticking).

Yes, it is more of an age issue.

I would think that it has to be covered under warranty. If you have any broke, call the dealer and ask.
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  #197 (permalink)  
Old 06-28-2008, 11:41 PM
Boris2000 Boris2000 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Genesis View Post
Sorry if these questions are redundant but I think they're pretty simple. Will an exhaust leak be the first sign my manifold bolts are breaking. From what guys are saying it seems you need to have at least a couple of bad ones before it becomes a problem. My 03 V-10 has only 31K but I realize it's probably more of an age issue versus miles. Are they easily visible from underneath(I have an E-350). When they go I assume it's not covered by warranty. I have ext. for another 2 years. I'm mechanical but I know this job would be over my head so I'm just trying to prepare myself for the future. Thanks for any info.

On mine, the passenger side had two of the rear studs broken. (4 and 5 exhaust port) I couldn't hear a leak, but knew the studs were broke. But you could see the exhaust carbon on the head.
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  #198 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2008, 08:49 AM
Boris2000 Boris2000 is offline
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Did I mention I had a custom Y pipe made up, instead of an E-bay special? Down pipes 2 1/2" into 4" that's stepped down to 3".
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  #199 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2008, 11:00 AM
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Boris, it's interesting you mention that 4" thing.

If you figure the area of two 2.5" pipes, that 9.8 square inches total.

3" is 7.06

4" is 12.56

4" would actually cause the exhaust gases to slow down. But 3" is going to speed them up.

Very interesting... That's all at WOT (full exhaust flow), not sure what it does during cruise...

Something to ponder.
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  #200 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2008, 11:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krewat View Post
Boris, it's interesting you mention that 4" thing.

If you figure the area of two 2.5" pipes, that 9.8 square inches total.

3" is 7.06

4" is 12.56

4" would actually cause the exhaust gases to slow down. But 3" is going to speed them up.

Very interesting... That's all at WOT (full exhaust flow), not sure what it does during cruise...

Something to ponder.
Krewat, I'm not sure that the 4" is doing all that much, other than it worked out nice as far as making the Y pipe. The exhaust guy made it just big/long enough to run the two 2 1/2s into than reduced it back down. If I knew how to do pics on here, I'd work on posting one. It looks very nice, can I even say almost factory? It seems to be working and the V 10 is snappier.
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  #201 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2008, 06:21 AM
AllAboutDaZ AllAboutDaZ is offline
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  • nice info now i want some headers and exhaust on my truck
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  #202 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2008, 01:58 PM
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Mon. and Tues I was driving around in the back roads (woods) according to the gauge in the truck, I got 12.8 mpgs. Don't know how exact that thing is yet, just soldered in a resistor and resoldered some loose resistors.
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  #203 (permalink)  
Old 08-23-2008, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krewat View Post
Finally got the Y-pipe disconnected, driver's side manifold off, but the passenger side?

The nut is so rotted on the center bottom, and it's in such an awkward place, I can't get it off...

I just disconnected the motor mount from the crossmember, and will be jacking up the engine tomorrow... all to gain access to one freakin' nut.

Such is life.
I'm having the same problem. Where did you jack up the engine at?
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  #204 (permalink)  
Old 08-23-2008, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Monster-4 View Post
I'm having the same problem. Where did you jack up the engine at?
I put a bottle jack between the cross member, and the AC bracket.
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  #205 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2008, 09:45 AM
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Well, the drivers side started to rattle. I was hoping this wouldnt happen. It's cold outside and plow season. I have my 99 to plow with my I like the 2002 better. No truck boxes on the back to obstruct my vision.

Is the drivers side easier than the passanger side?
My buddy had a large garage at his house that will hold my truck.

I hate doing this..... It took me a while to do the passanger side. Getting all the tools and stuff was a pain in the rear. But now I know what I am getting into. I just hope that I can get the bolts out of the manifold that hold the y pipe. I dont want to buy a new manifold.

Anyone post pics of this yet anywhere else? maybe on photobucket?

Mike Banks
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  #206 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2008, 01:24 PM
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I dunno, driver's side was harder for me, with the steering shaft in the way. Had to disconnect it to get the headers on anyway, but I think it would have had to be disconnected anyway. Just be careful with the clockspring behind the steering wheel - in other words, don't let the steering wheel rotate after you disconnect it.
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  #207 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2009, 02:33 PM
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Anyone still have the drill guide rig that you made when you had to drill out the ez-out tip? Yeah, I am there!! only one though very aft top on drivers side, the rest have come out ok with a little bit of work with a 90 degree drill, ez-out bits, and the good ole trusty Aero Kroil penetrant. But this last m-fer is going to eat my lunch soon, I don't want to drill through the head and ruin it, so any help would be appriciated!
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  #208 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2009, 02:41 PM
mikebanks mikebanks is offline
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drill guide

You just need some small bar stock, a drill guide/bushing and measure carefully. Under $20 bucks and you can get it done and made.
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  #209 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2009, 03:10 PM
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Thanks Mike
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  #210 (permalink)  
Old 04-10-2009, 10:19 PM
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Well after a visit from the welder to tack on some buts on the 3 remaining PITA studs, and a couple passes with the Oxy & Acety torch I am down to the one bugger with the easy out tip broken off in it, so I made my trip late today to get the ammo from Fastenal to do a heli-coil on that bad boy in the morning.

So a good day all in all, costly at around $140 for everything but I am am one step closer to finishing this V-10 PITA! Anyone finding themselves in this situation I will have plenty of heli-coils left over and a couple of stud removers to auction off.
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2002 , 68l , bolt , broken , drill , excursion , exhaust , f250 , ford , manifold , problems , remove , stud , studs , v10

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